Jump to content
HybridZ

BLOZ UP

Members
  • Posts

    1392
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    5

Everything posted by BLOZ UP

  1. With my z31, I skipped the GM HEI, and went straight to the z31 transistor. The pull-up resistors are still necessary, all they do is "amplify" the signal to a voltage that MS can use. I added the resistors directly to my 2.2 board, since it was easiest for me. All you do is find the pin on the DB37 (PCB side) that needs the pullup resistor, and find the nearest 12v line.
  2. Personal preference? I've seen the AEM used at my shop, but I've seen more of the LM-1, and used it. I like the LM1--actually, I like the LC1 (made by the same company).
  3. I believe back in the first days of turbos, people just used their right foot to control boost, since they didn't have wastegates. But I imagine it wouldn't take long at all for the turbo to destroy itself nowadays.
  4. Putting aside different treads for now, are wider or skinnier tires better in the rain? Also, is a heavier car less likely to hydroplane (but I can see it as harder to stop)? Just wondering...
  5. The Mitsubishi 16G's look like a better (and waaaay cheaper) alternative to the GT28's, although they would be my second choice so far. Hmm, now that I look at the website, the GT2860R 55 Trim looks nice! Well, at least I have a long while before I have to make the decision.
  6. I'd feel bad if I took that and "started" on it. I feel much better tearing at my 500 dollar, somewhat rusty, non-running "junk" that no one else wanted.
  7. I also need to media blast my car--outside. Thanks for the info!
  8. Welcome to DIY... no wait, welcome to working on any electronics (be it SDS, FAST/BS3, etc)... this stuff is bound to happen either way. Just be glad parts are cheap this way! And better be happy for fuses too! So which fuse did blow?
  9. Yes. You want it there otherwise you won't see the correct vacuum reading. If it is a vacuum/boost gauge. Also, you won't get the correct boost reading at part throttle. Although, I've been tempted to put an extra one before the TB too see the surge after you close the throttle.
  10. What is it? Double the time and triple the money? Well, whatever you do, good luck!
  11. Thanks. Yes, and from ZR8ed's site, it can be done somewhat easily. He had problems with the stock turbo location, but I don't intend to have a stock turbo "location" Anyway, as I pm'd this thread starter, http://www.blozup.com has the details.
  12. I'm doing a VG30E swap, possibly twin turbo, but at least single turbo. I should be picking the engine up sometime in the next couple weeks, and I'll be able to see just how close it is.
  13. The DETT will be hard as hell to fit in a 260z, if that's what it is going in. A Y will not hurt your "performance" enough to notice. At least if you do a decent Y, instead of a perpendicular setup. Doing the TT setup just because you want twin tips is a little .... insane. I hope you have money. I would do R26, since it is probably a whole lot lighter. And it's way easier to fit. In fact, You could still do a split TT exhaust on the RB too.
  14. That's awesome! From Z-Bum's calculator (http://az-zbum.com/hp.calculator.shtml), that should be about 350RWHP. He already mentioned he weighed in at 2,620 lbs. I hope my 240 ends up being that light, if not lighter.
  15. I would also like rear disc brakes along with 5 lugs. Converting to 4 lug Disc is easy from the stickies in this section, but how does one do it with 5 Lug? Z31 Turbo Spindles or something? I am also about to convert to R200 from the stock R180, so should I get some Z31T half-shafts as well?
  16. Looking at various posts and stickies, it appears that I need: The R200 Differential 280Z moustache bar for the rear diff mount Some fab/ingenuity to fit the front of the diff 280Z Half-shafts New driveshaft That's all I need for the R200 install, correct? EDIT: Disregard part of that title ("5 Lug & Disc Brake"), I'll post it in the brake section.
  17. If you use MS's MAP sensor, you shouldn't need a limp mode. All MS needs to run is a coolant sensor, MAP sensor, and IAT sensor (plus a rough base map). To figure out impedence, just use a multimeter to measure the resistance of the new injectors.
×
×
  • Create New...