Z24O
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Posts posted by Z24O
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Have you thought about importing one, I have a 6Boost steampipe manifold, very good quality and a lot cheaper than 2G..... even after shipping stateside
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not that hard
cut off the 4wd alloy section, remove the chain drive from the parent box(just cut the loop and pull it out),then plate the hole you have left to pretty it up
not sure why though unless you have a cheap 4wd trans already(which you could always sell to fund a RWD RB25 trans)
they are heavier and probably have been more abused in a previous life
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GT30r with an internal wastegate would be my pick in your situation
GT3076 with a 0.82 or 0.63 turbine housing,the larger one if you intend any future mods for HP and the smaller on if you want low boost threshold
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if you have increased your boost without increasing your crankcase ventilation you can sometimes get oil blowby your turbo seals
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I thought the flooding was only an issue with the Rb20's and the 25's???
Why not just get a few Tomei Oil restrictors?? or is this a better method?
i think the discussion at the beginning of this thread gos through the pros and cons:wink:
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Hope this thread isn't contravening the forum rules,if so then anyone interested in the 'leftovers' please just PM me
for those that contacted me here are the pics you requested
and paypal is fine
cam cover fittings -10/-8
example of them on an engine
head oil drain -8
....fitted
crank collar
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i'd like 2 sets of your -8 drain fittings and also the crank collars u mentioned for thr rb26.pm me details on your bank and i can wire tansfer the payment to you ASAP.by the way can u ship em to me in Malaysia?thanks
guys after being stiffed by dwayne (badgti) who ordered 3 sets of crank collars,oil drains and cam cover fittings and has been promising to pay ever since.....i am going to have to take a loss on the parts i paid to have made up for him
so
US$90 for the crank collars
US$35 for the head oil drains
US$70 for a pair of cam cover breathers
i will throw in free shipping if you order a set (4 fittings)
sorry to say this will be the last time i offer to source parts i have found useful, to be shipped worldwide, there's always one who spoils it for everyone....thanks badgti from Malaysia
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i wouldn't trust a 10 year old fuel pump from any car, lack of fuel pressure can melt a piston in a heartbeat on boost
as already mentioned an aftermarket fuel pump would be the way to go
personally i recommend the bosch 044
would also recommend the relay/rewire to make sure you have adequate voltage to the pump
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Are you talking about an RB30ET or RB30DET?
I can tell you from experience that the SOHC version will fit in a 240/260z but is very tight on hood clearance with the factory plenum crossover pipe,so if the mounts you are using drop the motor as low as you could possibly go then it may just fit
Of course if you use a front facing plenum a'la rb26,then there is no problem
Not sure about freight cost but Castlemaine Rod Shop in australia do the RB30/Z mounts,exchange rate definitely in your favour
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thanks for posting the info,glad it all panned out ok
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Yes, the mounts points on the RB20, 25, and 26 blocks are the same. Not sure about the RB30, but they probably are.
^^^^^^^^yep
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So no one has actually put a 351c into their Z? 302c for that matter?
Don't suppose you can purchase a rear oil pan for these engines?
i think the bronco had a rear pan sump,and maybe the 4wd F100
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contact mike rowe on the forum,he sorted this issue out recently i think
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first thing i would do with an import RB26 would be to strip it down and check the internals,if alls good give it a hone,linish the crank,new set of rings and bearings,new oil pump,pressure test the head,check valve seats,throw in a set of valve stem seals,check the valve springs carefully for tension,install a new set of retainers,new set of gaskets and you are good to go
the rb26 is a very expensive handgrenade and i have lost count of import ones that have met with premature demise after just being installed as is
....particularly spun bearings or dropped valves
i'd budget on a minimum of $10,000 ,including ECU & tune,loom,fuel system,wastegate,600hp turbo/s,pipework,exaust,engine freshen up,clutch,tailshaft,injectors,custom sump/pickup
however the above may not guarantee a reliable 600hp,for this you may need forged pistons and rods,large snout crank/mod,N1 oil pump,HD valve springs,aftermarket cams
hope you've got deep pockets
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still got a few left guys,first in best dressed
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hi mike,
i will be running a set of MT Street ET's in 15x235,they do 245's in 16" i think
a lot of guys recommend the Nittos and say they are better,but as usual...i got mine for the right price
the toyo proxy ra-1 use the same rubber as the nitto drag extremes but will be a lot cheaper i reckon......they would be my ideal choice
paul
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you have gone to a lot of trouble and expense,can i ask why you would bother running a VLSD
they are sort of ok for standard performance cars but not up to modified hp,they tend to go open centre as the viscous fluid overheats and changes viscosity and you can't rebuild them
those stub axles in the pic are the correct ones for VLSD....they don't fit anything else
you can confirm if you have a VLSD centre by looking into where the halfshafts go in the diff,you should be able to see a large washer with about a 3/4" hole in the centre that sits between the ends of the 2 stub axles......maybe you don't have a VLSD,i thought all the 88 300zx turbos were clutch pack lsd's(but i am no authority on this)
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are you running a sequential injection ecu?
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congrats mate
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Thanks Paul for your feedback. I have also heard this feedback the other day. Good idea regarding comparing them, I will have a look
Finishing bits progressing well now.
Off to Manila for 10 days & then back into it
regards
....talk about racking up the frequent flyer points:icon44:
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if i am reading the problem correctly i would say the best way would be to weld up the misaligned holes in the manifold and have them redrilled and tapped to suit the carby
alloy is pretty forgiving to work with
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hi mike
i haven't heard of anyone running more than one aftermarket BOV on their big hp gtr,however you could check the diameter of the factory bov's and compare that to the valve area of the hks one
i do know of a few guys that reckon the factory bov's are well up to the job, even on a modified rb26
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admittedly the 351 cleveland is a good motor,however for what it weighs you may as well go big block
too much weight over the front end for a Z in my opinion
347 windsor a better option ,the only down side is the factory 302 blocks are only good for around 500hp and don't like to be revved over 6000rpm or they can split through the lifter gallery...mexican block or aftermarket can handle more
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i would check the throttle body shafts,there are 6 seals that can deteriorate and leak...this commonly leads to erratic idle
spray carby cleaner around them with the engine running and see if the idle rises
rb25de to 25det
in Nissan RB Forum
Posted
If you are planning on changing the turbo for more performance i am assuming you will be using an aftermarket ECU,injectors,exhaust manifold,etc if this is the case you may be ahead money wise(the NA cams work fine with the turbo)
however if you are going a more budget build route it would be cheaper to start off with the turbo rb25 version....even if you do end up upgrading the turbo (garrett gt30r makes a good street turbo choice with the 0.82a/r turbine housing)
btw the NA does run higher comp which when turbod makes a very responsive street motor,however you have to limit the boost and timing to avoid detonation.