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Z24O

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Posts posted by Z24O

  1. I know that the order of engines that can handle the most power on factory internals is.

     

    RB26DETT- 600hp

    RB30ET- 500hp

    RB25DET- 450-500hp

    RB20DET- 300-400hp

     

    Even though some of the engines are larger thus able to create more power. Is the reason that the factory RB20DET can only handle 300-400hp is because it's internals are not as strong as the RB26 or RB25?

     

    there may be some examples of RB26's making that horsepower,but there are plenty of examples of ones that failed well before that figure.....spun bearings,cracked blocks,oil pump failures

    i have yet to hear of an RB30 block failing and spun bearings are not common

    to my way of thinking the ultimate is the RB30 block with the RB26 head...nissan heaven...look at RIPS efforts

    as the old saying goes,there is no replacement for displacement....even in turbo form

    the RB30 will make more torque at lower revs ,and perhaps this is the key to it's longevity,keep it below 7500rpm unless you are investing in an aftermarket harmonic balancer though

  2. The reason the AWD trans go for alot cheaper is because they're worthless to all of us RWD guys......you need the RWD trans

     

    i've seen guys over here cut off the transfer case(chain driven) and plate it up,not pretty but who sees it anyway

    the other downside is that behind a gtr there is a good chance it has already been caned before you put it in your car

    still if you already have one you don't have much to lose

  3. Guys the fittings should be here by monday

    Those guys that have paid me by then i will post off their parts Tuesday(make sure i have your full address otherwise i won't be able to)

    On Wed I am away for 3-4 weeks with work so won't be able to send the remaining fittings until i get back....this gives those guys saving up their pennies plenty of time to stuff the piggy bank:wink:

  4. Whats wrong with the stock rods?? My car has been making 550+ rwhp for over 2 years on a completely stock motor. The previous stock motor made over 600 rwhp.....stock cast pistons were it's demise (ring land).

     

     

    Z240: Just curious but how are the rb26 rods any better than the rb25 rods?

     

     

    They are much thicker where the beam tapers into the big end and there is more material around the bolt holes.

     

    If you compare pics of the rb25 and rb26 rods you can clearly see the rb26 rod beams start to taper out wider closer to the little end than the rb25 rods. Using the protrusion on the side of the beams as a reference.

     

    The 26 rod has a much beefier lug area around the head of the bolt, which gives greater support to the most significant difference, where the 26 rod starts to taper out toward the rod bolt much higher up the rod length. This is significant because the inertial mass further away from the crank adds up and can cause permanent deformation or complete failure so has been countered by adding more and more material further away from the piston. So instead of more mass all along the rod, it has been added little by little where it is needed most. If a constant size rod were to snap due to inertia from mass toward the free end, it would obviously snap toward the constrained end.

     

    In addition the tapering gives significant columnar stability due to compressive forces.

     

    All of this adds up making this rod far more capable in terms of high power and high rpm application

    That is not to say that you won't get away with using an rb25 rod,but for the availability and cheap price of rb26 rods,if doing a rebuild, why wouldn't you throw them in for cheap insurance.

    Either way,any used factory rods should be fitted with new rod bolts,balanced and shotpeened/linished for the full prep. This is probably the reason most guys simply buy aftermarket rods eg SPOOL....it's not much more expensive and infinately safer.

    Guess it all boils down to application and budget.....oh and whether you are a gamblin' man(or gal):wink:

  5. Last orders taken tonight as i will be organising them

    so far here's the list (including those guys who said they wanted one but wouldn't have the money until later....please don't back out)

    Roostmonkey 2 x -8 fittings

    WG383 2 plus one crank collar

    Racinjitter 1

    DatsunDave 1

    amorfin 2

    Careless 1

    Jonnyringo 1

  6. guys i've had one confirmed and paid for order,i need to know who definitely wants the -8 fitting as i am sorting them out on monday

    please post in this thread

    1) how many of what you want

    2) when you will pay by

     

    if you commit to an order please don't back out down the track as i have no use for multiples of these fittings,i am only trying to help out Hybridz guys with a solution i have discovered for myself :icon14:

  7. Postage looks like US$7.50 (minimum charge for parcel shipping internationally)

    This will cover up to a couple of fittings or a crank collar for example.

    It looks like most guys wanted the smaller size fitting so I will get a batch of -8 fittings machined up to start with

    So if you are interested PM me with your

    Name

    Hybridz nickname

    Address

    Order

  8. $7000 for everything from intercooler to diff.....but that would be an RB30 turbo and you'd have to wait for it to arrive from australia:)

    that would include delivery to your nearest port

    a weekend to install it and away you go,all running gear as new

  9. guys initially i will get 10 oil drain fittings machined up in either -8 or -10 so let me know which most of you would prefer and i will do that batch

    as i said there is no appreciable difference in oil flow at revs through the fitting/hose,there is a little more room when fitting the -8 as it is slightly smaller, however both sizes fit ok

     

    for those that inquired about the crank collars,they are designed for the RB26(r32),RB25 and RB30 cranks that have the narrow snout oil pump drive which are renowned for causing oil pump failure if you are using the RB26 pump

    they come with machining instructions/tolerances for a press fit and countersunk grub screws and are easily fitted to the crank by any competent machine shop

    they are US$100+post (much cheaper than JUN) and will be the best $100 you will ever spend on an RB.....much cheaper than a new motor:?

     

    don't forget your postal addresses

    paypal probably the easiest method of payment

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