Z24O
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Posts posted by Z24O
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lol you're going to town with these parts
if only nissan had done it right in the first place eh?
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i have a custom victor junior plumbed for injectors with a plenum and twin TB's for sale if you are interested
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Can also supply these brass oil restictors for those that want to use them.Brass much better than the cheap mild steel Jun ones:grin:
Can be supplied drilled to your personal specs as well at no extra charge.
US$30 a pair including worldwide post.
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CP make an ideal piston for the rb30det comes in at 8.2:1,they also make a 9.0:1 they are very good quality
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we have a perfect one to suit your application that comes factory on a ford falcon XR6 turbo
it is a garrett GT35r equivalent with a 1.06 a/r turbine housing,internally gated,T3 flange and a 0.50 a/r compressor housing
they come up here quite often as new due to guys upgrading the factory turbo for their 4.0 litre ford motors
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I have an R34 Neo RB25DET, not sure if it's an early one or a late one, but is there a way to find out if I need the crankshaft mod done without taking the oil pump off?
all rb25 variants run the short snout oil pump drive,this is ok unless you switch to the N1/gtr/RB26 oil pump
so this crank collar is advised for all RB's except the r33/34 RB26's which already have factory long snout oil pump drives
hope this clears up any confusion;-)
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I couldnt get mine out without using a punch from the inside. I have heard people just using a big cresent wrench and turning them out but mine had to be forced out. If i do it again i will just remove it and either weld a bung or thread the hole for an A/N fitting.
another option,freeze fit -10 fitting into the cam covers and then screw on your right angle fitting/hose on....voila
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double post
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i got my last RB30 for $50,it had just been rebuilt as well
oh i forgot,you stateside guys didn't get the RB30,lol
come to think of it neither did the rest of the world....including japan where they were made....go figure
gotta love australia
i still reckon the best motor for the Z is a turbo 302 windsor,guys on the turbo mustang forum are running 9/10's in full body LX stangs
this combo is cheap,readily available,lots of aftermarket parts and best of all...very light if you use all the ali addons and just the cast iron block
this is mine ready to go in a 260,will be ditching the supra 5 speed for a C4 and high stall tho
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you used to be able to by adapter spacers to bolt the rb26 plenum to the rb25 head but most guys just by a Greddy for ease
be warned ,a lot of those cheap copies are porous and not easily repaired
the std rb25 intake can support 350hp as is,even more if ported and gives pretty even cfm per cylinder,i managed to fit a std rb30et engine in my Z so you should ??? be able to fit the rb25 one as the deck height is lower
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I was just busting your balls, you may consider letting the guys over on NICO know about this too.
consider my balls well and truly busted:icon52:
what is the NICO forum?
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haha Careless,you crack me up with your gastronomical descriptions
green tea,batter,chocolate,peanut oil
whenever i look at problem engines all i see is sh*t,lol
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Is it a lack of a PCV system that causes the oil buildup? I see the same problem with my VG30ET's clogged PCV and I have since removed it in favour of a catch can that uses the vaccum from the compressor inlet to pull from the valve cover, with a breather on one of the valve covers to bring fresh clean air into the crank case instead of recirculating.
If this is not how it's done, can you tell us what the full solution for problem 3 is? where do these fittings go? across from eachother? or are you just making the factory provisions larger.
Thanks.
precisely,you need bigger breathers running into a catch can,the pcv valves are way too restrictive when upping the boost (think of it as twice the air flow into the motor requires twice the ventilation) especially on the rb covers that just run one vent valve (theres a guy on this rb forum that i posted in recently that discovered this,effectively the boost was pushing oil past the turbo shaft seals into the compressor/turbine and smoking out the exaust)
i ran my breather pipes into a filtered catch can (filled with stainless steel pot scourers:icon52:)that was also vented to atmosphere via a K&N mini filter and ran a drain tube from the bottom of the catch can back into the sump
this way there is no backpressure to slow the oil flow down,the stainless 'filter' prevents any oil spraying up and blocking the K&N filter and you don't have to keep checking that the catch can isn't full of oil
i am no expert but i wouldn't be running the crankcase ventilation back into the intake side (under vacuum into the compressor) as i would be worried that the oil vapour may encourage detonation
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I am not a business,just able to source these parts for any interested members
if that's a drama ,remove the thread by all means,not trying to offend anyone
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Wasn't able to edit my other post so hear is a mini version
Problem 1) Cranks (other than RB26 in the r33 and r34) only have the small oil pump drive on the snout.So if you are running a GTR/N1 oil pump then the drive is almost certain to crack leading to grenading the whole engine.
Solution- Fit a crank collar made out of machined 4140 steel.Your crank snout will need to be machined down to fit the collar over,it comes with a spec sheet for the dimensions and tolerances,just provide this to any competent machine shop as it is simple to do.
Cost- US$100 per collar (one required)
Problem 2) Excessive oil build up in the cylinder head starves the sump leading to spun bearings &/or catastrophic engine failure.
Solution- Replace the core plug in the rear of the head with an interference fit -8 or -10 aluminum fitting and run a drain line back to the sump.To fit,put the fitting in some cling wrap and leave it in the freezer over night,remove the top core plug in the rear of the head,place a 19mm socket to protect the threads over the fitting and tap the shoulder in.Voila
Cost US$50 per drain fitting (one required)
Problem 3) Running higher than factory boost causes an excessive build up of crank case pressure in the cam covers often leading to a forcing of oil past the turbo into the intake tract,using excessive oil,causing detonation and smoking exhaust under boost.
Solution- Proper ventilation of the crank case pressure by installing -10 oversize fittings and hoses in the cam covers.
Cost US$50 per fitting (one-two required)
If you are running a standard RB Turbo you may well not have any of the problems I have noted above...(although the forums are littered with tails of woe from guys with r32 RB26's that have spun bearings or lunched motors:icon11:)
However if you have upgraded to a bigger oil pump,bigger turbo, bumped up the boost or like to drive your RB on the raggedy edge then the above mods are cheap insurance and peace of mind.
To say that there are similar,possibly cheaper ways of achieving these mods by resourceful guys,but the above mods are well proven and guaranteed to fit and work for those who want a simple fix-it package.
Orders over US$150 qualify for free worldwide shipping.
Payment is by Paypal
PM me if you need further info or want to order anything;-)
Crank collar
Oil drain fitting
Cam cover fitting
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bosch 044
do it once and do it right
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i had a similar problem when i repowered my 240 with an RB30ET,was told the turbo seals were probably us and were allowing oil through to the intake side under boost.....so i went ahead and rebuilt the T3,the turbo guys said they had seen much worse seals that showed no signs of leaking.....sure enough i put it back together to find the problem was still the same
finally i worked out that because i had doubled the boost,the breather in the rocker cover was causing pressure to build up....solution...fitted a catch can with obversize fittings and hose
you could confirm if this is your problem by removing the oil filler cap,taping a rag over it to stop oil flying everywhere and taking it for a short drive under revs....if there is no smoke then you have found the culprit
good luck and let us know what you turn up
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Guys I am still away travelling until the end of the month,my wife kindly posted off the above orders for me Tuesday this week,let me know when they arrive
cheers
Paul
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what's the problem,diameter of injector feed? there are many Sard injectors that fit the manifold but have varying diameter feeds...necessitating a custom rail,make sure you have the right part/injector number
ps large Sard injectors often give trouble with idle quality depending on the ecu you are using,RB's not suprisingly work very well with Nismos
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Guys I must apologise,there has been an over-run on another machine job and the parts won't be ready until later in the week when i am away.
I have prepared all the postal arrangements and will get my wife to post the parts off to the 4 of you when she returns home in about 2 weeks(i will be away for a further 3 weeks after that)
Once again apologies to amorfin,datsun dave,wg383 and careless
btw here is a shot of the crank collar for those that asked
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Well... I can look at this two different ways, I got a great manifold for the price, or I got stiffed.
This manifold was advertised as a T4 flanged manifold. I did not pay enough attention to the pic showing the flange, so I gobbled up the deal.
Its a T3 flange. I guess I could sell it, or I can get a T3 based turbo that would give me all I want out of the motor, which is not alot really, compared to what most build their RB26 to HP wise.
I'm back to trying to figure out a good streetable, low/mid boost, quick spooling, now T3 turbo...
What do you think... sell it, or keep it?
Garret GT35r,0.7 a/r comp,0.82 a/r turbine housing most popular choice over here for big hp street RB's
however i would still make sure any turbo is going to clear the hood before going any further,it looks to mount too high to me
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Well... I can look at this two different ways, I got a great manifold for the price, or I got stiffed.
This manifold was advertised as a T4 flanged manifold. I did not pay enough attention to the pic showing the flange, so I gobbled up the deal.
Its a T3 flange. I guess I could sell it, or I can get a T3 based turbo that would give me all I want out of the motor, which is not alot really, compared to what most build their RB26 to HP wise.
I'm back to trying to figure out a good streetable, low/mid boost, quick spooling, now T3 turbo...
What do you think... sell it, or keep it?
Garret GT35r,0.7 a/r comp,0.82 a/r turbine housing most popular choice over here for big hp street RB's
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Update on orders
Roostmonkey 2 x -8 fittings
WG383 2 plus one crank collar-PAID
Racinjitter 1
DatsunDave 1-PENDING
amorfin 2
Careless 1-PAID
Jonnyringo 1
thanks to those guys,should have the fittings in the mail to you early next week
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there are several guys over here who have cut the transfer case off the 4wd gtr transmission and plated up the alloy casing
not pretty but functional
trick is to find a gtr transmission that hasn't been abused
RB26 oil pickup problems!
in Nissan RB Forum
Posted
by the time you add up all the anomalies in fitting an rb26 into a Z you may as well just go rb30/26...much easier