-
Posts
285 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Blogs
Events
Gallery
Downloads
Store
Posts posted by Z24O
-
-
if you want a compromise,disable the ignition(in cabin switch) crank until you see oil pressure,then start up
-
270cc if i am not mistaken
-
other than traffic standstill situations the best way to cool things down is to look at airflow
air will take the path of least resistance so if there are gaps around your radiator eg between bonnet/hood and rad support panel,vent holes either side,radiator not sitting hard up against the support panel all the way around,etc then the air is not going through the rad to transfer the heat away (especially thick cores which increase air resistance
look at sealing the gaps,adding ducting from the front of the car outside the grille area
as mentioned an oil cooler is good....as long as it isn't in front of the rad as this defeats the purpose,ditto for intercooler but this is usually a bit tricky to relocate
let us know how it goes
paul
-
Was that in a AWD also?
sure was,poor mans GTR:eek2:,but much better diff ratios for the street,same gearbox
having said that^^^ most people i know with a real gtr end up poor maintaining their car:icon54:
-
the walbro pump has no where near the bosch 044 flow once the voltage drops below 14V and the line pressure rises
both will probably work for you
sometimes a few extra dollars in the right place is good insurance
if your entire motor is a budget build then you could use use a budget pump
but bear in mind lack of fuel when on boost motor goes bang
you should have enough info and advice to make an informed decision now
good luck
-
rb25de n/a came out awd in the r33 GTS-4 skylines.......auto only
rb25det came out awd in the nissan stagea wagons.....auto only(i think)
rb20det came out in the r32 skyline GTS-4....5 speed manual only
-
1cc/1hp is a good rule to remember. As for the Bosch 044, I've done a little research on them, from what I've read...they don't flow as much as the A1000, can anybody give some specifics (a place to search) on the Bosch 044 as an external pump? Also, the noise isn't a huge issue.
can't find the link but search for bosch specs on voltage and pressures with regards to fuel flow
without ALL these specs for each fuel pump you can't really compare them or make an informed decision
14v at no back pressure is a meaningless specification to quote,if the pump manufacturer you choose can't provide the other specs then don't buy it
with regard to the twin pump set-up,run two lines from the surge tank,one to each pump then "T" them into one line that goes up to the fuel rail
don't forget the return line from the fuel rail to the fuel cell
another point to bear in mind is that the high pressure fuel pumps are very inefficient at sucking,they tend to cavitate and overheat leading to premature failure,so make sure you mount them below the outlet of the fuel cell so they are not working against gravity
lastly running twin pumps is cheap insurance in a big HP turbo application as it is very unlikely they will both fail simultaneously.....losing fuel pressure when on boost is certain to lead to a melted piston:nono:also useful to run a fuel pressure gauge to see what is going on when you set the system up
-
i second the bosch 044 idea,but i would use 2 of them for 600hp
bosch pumps maintain very good flow across a wide voltage range....some other pumps look good flow wise until you look at a graph as voltage drops below 14v and then it can almost halve around 12v
i would also use a surge tank/swirl pot off the main tank to ensure you never starve the pump/s
lastly i would get a sparky to rewire the fuel pumps from a direct power source, with a relay and heavy duty cable,to maintain maximum voltage
oh and for injectors you can't go past Nismo for the RB26's,extremely good injectors with very even fuel atomisation,great for tuning and idle
once you go to big injectors ie 600cc+ you can have real trouble with the idle,i believe sards are renowned for this as they are mainly compromised to provide top end flow.....bit like a fire hose,great for large jets at high pressure but becomes a dribble when you try to shut it down to a fine mist
and lastly the Nispro fuel pressure regulators are still retained by quite a few big hp GTR's in Japan,along with the standard fuel rails....speaks volumes i reckon and they are pretty reasonably priced
-
Mate, I haven't got anywhere near the expertise a lot of the guys on here have but I thought I'd post because your doing exactly what I have been dreaming of for a few years. I doubt I'll ever really try it because the engineering rules for registering a vehicle are impossibly stringent down here.
I had been looking for FWD transmissions based on torque they would tolerate. The best I have found with torque listed are the late model FWD Volvo turbo boxes, V70, S70 HP turbo's from what I can tell generate 300NM. The other box I had found is from Mitsubishi found in what is called a Magna/380 down here, I think it's similar/same as a Diamintina (?). It's a FWD v6 that guys down here have supercharged. Might be the same as in a GTO (?).
Don't know if that helps any, but best of luck building it. I love my Z's but I'd sell them all and a kidney for a Miura!
Mike
would you be interested in my Maserati Merak,registered in WA with a mid mount 350 chev,5 speed transaxle
it's a classic italian muscle car now:burnout:
may even be able to work out a deal whereby you can keep both kidneys
-
RB rods a better option
-
i had the same problem with the 350sbc in my maserati merak
the engine was made to run backwards
not sure how easy this would be to do with an RB26 but i am sure it's possible
-
very informative thread matt
thankyou
-
Paul let me know when you get it so that I can check it out
regards
i'll sell you a photocopy mike:icon10:
only kidding
-
Will get a cost at the post office to ship out.
thanks mate
-
i wouldn't mind a copy dave
let me know what it will cost me to perth,western australia
cheers
paul
-
that's nice work,especially like the fuel delivery setup,very neat
unfortunately can't help with the question but would like to know myself
maybe mike rowe will pitch in?
-
how much room is there between the top of the EFI intake manifold and the hood?
could you run the GT40/explorer intake being about an inch or so higher?
bring on the pics!!!
-
you won't get a brace to fit with the std intake on an rb25det in a 240/260z,not one that goes directly between the front strut towers anyway
-
looks quality mike
what was it worth?
-
so there you have it guys ^^^^
proving everyone is entitled to an opinion.......but only you can make up your own mind
and that is precisely why i have the oil restrictors available,i personally wouldn't use them (for reasons I've mentioned) but a few guys have asked about them so they are available too
vive la democracie
-
They did get it right, for the most part. They didn't build the motor for 10,000 rpm and 2 bar of boost, which is how most of these mods came to be. Now the entire Intenet thinks that their 500hp RB26 is going to come apart at the seams if they don't do these "miminum" mods...
Here's a new one that goes along with the others: Don't forget to change the intake valves. Engineis with stock valves and heavy springs have a hard time keeping the head on the stem over 9,500 rpm... Valves love to drop into the cylinder.
Here's some RB trivia: I first did the "oil drain back" about 13 years ago, but the mod wasn't originally intended to return oil to the pan. I think some people saw it being done on very high power RB's, assumed it was an oil drain, and the ball was set rolling... Anyone got a guess, or know what the actual purpose is?
Hint: It promotes oil drain back. Later small-port Toyota 4AG's started getting the mod from the factory.
At 1g of forward acceleration, the oil in the pan will stand up at a 45* angle on the rear bulkhead. How is oil from the rear of the head moving forward to the front of the oil pan in my 8 second GT-R?
Later 32 engines have the long oil pump drive too (around the same time they went to a pull-clutch. It's not really a problem unless you're turning around 8,500 rpm. If you're turning sub-8,000, there's no reason to upgrade the stock pump, so you don't really need to be worried. If you're concerned, get a big oil pressure light. As long as you shut it down right away, the motor will be fine. There are thousands of GT-R's running around in Japan without the oil pump drive mod
not sure i agree with all of the above,however i did find it a bit confusing,so maybe i got the wrong end of the stick
there are plenty of guys in Oz with short snout drives that have cracked standard rb26 oil pump drives with disastrous and expensive consequences,and these aren't track/drag cars either (maybe it's our long straight roads,do you guys in japan ever find a road that you can actually open an RB26 up on:rolleyesg,maybe that's why they last so long)
with regard to G forces,i don't know about you guys but 11 seconds of pulling G's is about as much as i can take on one change of underwear
by all means get a properly baffled sump.....it all helps
i have personally seen many rb26 head components damaged by restricting the oil flowing to the head,the drain seems to make more sense and there have been no adverse effects with this mod to date
at the end of the day,these mods are a bit like insurance....may never need it,but may regret not having it at some stage
in the scheme of the cost and inconvenience of a rebuild i'll let individuals decide.....me i can save $100 elsewhere
for those guys who ordered and paid,i will be sending them out tomorrow
-
not so sure you will control boost spike with an internal wastegate on a 450HP motor with a T3 turbo?
you will get much better boost control with an appropriately sized external wastegate,plus have the flexibility if you decide to up the HP later on.
Masterpower make a pretty good plain bearing turbo,not sure if they do internal gate though,should be pretty cheap as they are made south of the border
-
Sounds good Paul. Is the RB30 pickup point already at the back unlike the RB26? I'm just wondering whether an RB26 could use the same setup but I think when I tried the sump wasnt available or something?.....
regards
hi mike
i believe that the drama with the rb26's is the location of the pickup when you use a sump suitable for the Z's
the rb30 came out std with front and rear hump sumps to suit various models
the nissan patrol one is the sump to use to fit in a Z
best of all.....i found this one in a skip
doesn't that just sh1t you:mrgreen:
-
What sump & pickup do you use Paul?
nissan patrol......all standard,neat as
RB20DE head on an RB30 bottom with RD28 crank.
in Nissan RB Forum
Posted
i would have thought that an rb20 head on an rb30 bottom end would be too restrictive
the best bang for buck for offroad torque would be a turbo rb30e (ie na rb30 with a turbo kit added)oodles of off boost low end torque due to high compression with the added boost when under load
not sure about kiwi land but in oz this combination could be thrown together for under $1000,proven to work well as long as you don't go over 1 bar of boost,very streetable with basement torque