GrayZee

Again, I am not saying that it is a "good idea" but it's not a unheard of concept either.. read this article: http://www.alcoholinjectionsystems.com/a40/Where-Do-I-Position-My-Water-Methanol-Injection-Nozzles/article_info.html

Yeah could be, I gave up trying to figure that one out. The 38mm "almost" bleed off enough boost, it would go to 14psi, hold.. and then start creeeping eventually going somewhere over 20lbs. I will be upgrading from the 1.5" piping and 38mm WG to a 2.0" pipe with 44mm WG either way that should take care of the problem once and for all.

I am not saying its a good idea, but I have done it on a stock L28 turbo with zero side effects to the turbo.

I had various issues with my Hy35 setup, for some reason I couldn't keep it from boost spiking with my 38mm external gate. My z31 maf was also in need of a upgrade as I was blowing more air through it than it's scale allows for. I did make one crazy run at the track with it though, I can't say for sure how much boost it was as my gauge only went up to 20psi (it was over that for sure) I did manage to pulloff a 118.5mph et, which at my weight dials in at 360whp. There are lots of bugs I hope to sort out this year (if I have time) I have a 44mm wastegate coming in the mail, got a new 45psi boost gauge and in the process of upgrading to a z32 ecu/maf.

Check out maxima.org, I think there are many turbocharged maximas on that forum.

One time I had a vehicle in the bodyshop and the guy was dragging his ass. Once the vehicle was done it was gonna be my daily driver. I was in between cars and a friend let me drive their old car indefinatly, it was very nice of them but the car was a fugly POS and I just wanted my car out of the shop. One day I went in there and said ok look.. I have two weeks more with my "loaner car" and then my friend needs it back. (this of course was BS) but I told him that in two weeks I will be without a car and at the moment I have the cash to pay you. However if I don't get it in two weeks I will be forced to buy something to get me around. At that point I will no longer have the cash to pay you.... Somehow he managed to have the vehicle ready for me in two weeks.

You could also consider doing a autometer 5" speedo/tach swap, they fit nicely into the dashes of old Z's

Ok, with Megasquirt you probably have faster and easier access to info and hardware interface, but making statements that suggest that all of those things cannot be done with the Nissan ecu is completely false. Not only is there the z31 upgrade there is also the m30 upgrade that allows sequential injection, better tps input, and datalogging. Recently there has been the breakthrough made with using the z32 ecu which also uses coil on plug ignition and controllable outputs. I have also seen the Nissan ecu's purr like a kitten with 680cc injectors.

Is a 91 300zx not a R230? In which case the answer would be a definate no?

I know the 240z is always sought after as it is lighter and more classic. However most 240z owners that modify it for alot more power end up putting in the bigger diff and strenghtening (and lengthening) the frame rails. 240's need extra stuff if you want to add fuel injection. Of course the 280z already has injection, the R200 and better rails. I have also found that the electrical system in the newer ones are superior. One of the biggest downfalls of the later Z's is the ugly/heavy bumpers. Those of course can be removed. Motorsport has a nice body kit for that. Overall I think the 280 is more solid and better built than the 240, but that's just my opinion. If someone was in the market for a old Z I would just tell them to buy the best one they can find for the money regardless of the model.

Hey! I live in Canada, where do you guys think you get your water from? LOL

You find me a 6" throttle body and it's a done deal.

Agreed

BernardD used to run 2" pipe and was making around 400? HP at the time. Last year he upgraded to 2.75" pipe and a massive IC if I recall correctly he did say it un-corked the engine a bit.

So is there a way to use Eibach springs on a 280z AND still have the proper ride height? I would love to know as I have a set of Eibach's still in the box but they won't work on my 280z

Remote car starters come with that option built in, cheaper than buying a turbo timer plus they have other uses.

the ignitor unit MUST be grounded, when the ecu sends out a + signal the transistor unit creates a connection between that ground and the negative terminal of the ignition coil. The other spade conection is just the 12v+ that goes through the ignitor and to the coil's + terminal. As for getting a + on each side.. not sure but it sounds off.. I have used about 3 or 4 different kinds of ignitors with that system. Nissan ones all seem to work the same even though they might look different. My favorite one is a very small grey one with a 3 pin plug. They can be found on 90+pathfinders, access vans and 240's One wire goes to the ecu, another to the - coil terminal, the third to ground.

I will agree with that, there is a huge difference between charge pipe and the air/fuel mixture flowing in a cylinder head. I really think the IC piping differences are too minor to worry about that much. I went from a stock l28 turbo with a J pipe (no intercooler at all) to a Holset and 3" IC piping. Did I notice a difference in lag? Barely... and was that extra lag from the larger air volume of the IC and piping? I very much doubt it, it would have alot more to do with the size of the larger turbo.

Yeah I've always found that the steeper gears are better, unless you have a NA L6. Otherwise you spend more time shifting gears than running through them.

I have welded parts on my IC piping, I only used silicon where I NEEDED to use one anyway.. If that area happened to require a bend, then I did it in silicone. There is only one spot that is kinda overkill in the silicon area and that is the two reducing bends right together, and there was no way that I had room for any other option. To make two 90 degree bends AND go from 2.5 to 3.0? I didn't exactly have 24" of space to play with. Do a search for 280zforce's IC setup and you will see what I mean. Mine is very similar. The idea of cutting a pipe lengthwise 12" and putting a gradual taper on it seems like a big waste of time to me. Although in the most technical/mathematic way it might be correct, the question is... At the end of the day what does this "superior flow" characteristic really matter? Will you notice a difference? I doubt it. Another thing? have you actually seen a silicon reducing bend? The are not at all like the straight ones, the transision is VERY smooth, infact with a .25" difference you have to look carefully to even notice.

I don't think there is alot on a 240z as there isn't alot of need for wiring in the first place. Have you considered using that 12v switched source you already have to run a relay instead? Then you could easily run alot more circuits coming right off the battery.

My piping setup is actually a very confusing setup as far as pipe sizes go, however it was done in the most practial way IMO. The following points effected my decisions. 1. I have a Holset with a 2.75 OD outlet (but the ID is more like 2.5) 2. I had a choice between two vertical flow intercoolers, one was too big for the car with 3" in/outlets, the other was a little on the small side with 2.5 in/outlets. I decided to get the bigger one and then just cut it to the perfect size and weld on plates to cap it off. 3. My SX throttle is 2.75 4. I wanted to do minimal cutting to the sheet metal of the car, so the smaller the pipe the better. The Holset starts off with a 2.75 to 2.5 hose, 2.5" piping until it goes through the rad cradle, then two 90 degree silicon reducing bends. 2.5 to 2.75 and 2.75 to 3.0 (thus making a very gradual increase to 3.0 Coming out of the top side of the intercooler I use 3.0" piping and eventually get to a 45 degree reducing bend at the throttle, taking it back down to 2.75 a very minor transision that might even provide a venturi effect when I add methanol this year. I did not go with 2.75" piping anywhere except 3" worth to joint two hoses together, 2.75 is generally not as common and the 2.5" stuff meant very little cutting of the sheet metal.

I wouldn't think good quality fenders would be available in the junkyards anymore, even around there. That's awesome though.

Seriously dude, try the Nissan dealer. I got mine from Victora British (blackdragon now) I asked at Nissan but they said the part was obsolete. A couple years later someone cut me off and the insurance company wanted to write my car off (no F'ing way!) I was doing research on prices of parts I needed so I went to Nissan.. I told them I realize that you may not be able to get some of the parts but even if you has a hypothetical price would be useful.. They gave me the price on the fender, then told me it was available! I said.. WTF? you told me that it was obsolete two years ago?? They replied with "yeah well now we have a better computer to look it up" Anyway, the original Nissan part (which fit way better) was alot cheaper than the aftermarket one cuz I got screwed over shipping across the border into Canada. (brokerage fees, duty, taxes, ect...)

I think the z32 tranny beats them both