GrayZee

My experience has been that all that kind of stuff is interchangable. One thing I had a problem with is the clutch's release bearing (some have a longer or shorter neck) Just make sure the bearing matches the tranny you are using.

I recall reading something about sports car sales. There were lots of sports cars out there but usually sports cars have very low actual production numbers. For example, think of how many Chevy Cavaliers there are out there VS. Chevy Corvettes or Dodge Neons VS. Vipers. The part that I found interesting is that the Datsun Z's from 69 to 78 had the highest production numbers worldwide. More then any other sports car in history.

All the more reason to be using that built in safety feature. At the very least I hope you have a master battery cut off switch mounted on the outside of the vehicle. If you were to discuss this issue with the tech inspection guys at whatever track you are running at.. I'm sure they would agree.

1. the difference is that if you roll the car in the ditch and get knocked in the head you won't remember to wake up and turn the fuel pump off. Meanwhile you have a severered fuel line spewing fuel all over the place... The emergency vehicles arrive in time to put out a fireball where there were no survivors. 2. Plug 3 (the one that controls the fuel pump the way it was meant to be used.. is near the head temp plug/battery/fusible links 3. Fusible links serve the purpose to burn out if there is a dead short, and not start a fire, but it sounds like you won't be needing those either.

Depends on the gearing you want... this site will give you a idea of ratio's from one tranny to another. I believe the 4spd has a very low 1st gear. http://www.geocities.com/z_design_studio/

I'll be out in BC in two or three months, perhaps I can look at it then... LOL WORD!

You want the ecu to control when the fuel pump comes on. It is a safety thing.

Yes, like I said I know for a fact the early 300zxt DP will fit, but it DOES require the old wastegate housing to be removed. It should work for you just fine then. Just be careful not to break any bolts!

Wait a minute... I just realised another possible problem. Did you first try to remove the wastegate housing from your turbo? (the very part in the picture) I believe there are about 5 bolts holding it on. THEN try to bolt on that 300zx downpipe!

The turbocharger definatly looks like a stock 280zxt. I know for a fact that a downpipe from a early 300zxt (84-86) will fit. However, a later 300zxt (87+) I have no idea, but I'm guessing that is where your problem is. What kind of downpipe do you want? If all you want is the crappy stock cast iron one I could probably find one for you.

the water temp sensor (at the thermostat) has nothing to do with the ecu. It is for the temp gauge on the dash. The ecu only takes a reading from the CHTS (head temp, by #5 spark plug)

Mine was a 2003 also...

Send BernardD a email, he has done alot of work with Methanol and tuning.

Well now I am really confused... Obviously there a MANY different types of oil line threads on Holset turbochargers. The stock Nissan bolt is M12x1.5 and the one that Big Phil has according to the pic is even larger than that. I had hoped to leave some info to help out anybody that does this swap but nevermind, every swap is going to turn out different.... So you guys are on your own... Ha ha ha....

I've been working at a way to connect the stock turbo oil feed to my Hy35 without having to tap the center section. This method certainly works but it makes me nervous that I won't be able to remove all the shavings and end up damaging the turbo. I went to my local haudraulics shop looking for some sort of adapter. They usually always have a answer to your problem. This time though, no luck, they spent 20 min just looking for something... anything that will even thread in properly. They had no answers for me, I decided to find out exactly what this elusive thread was. I looked online for info and I found many statements claiming that the Holset threads were M10x1.5 These turned out to be incorrect as a M10 bolt was way too small, and a M12 was way too big. 11 I thought? Naw... couldn't be.. I tried 7/16, close but wrong thread pitch. I finally decided to get my hands on a thread pitch gauge, turns out they were a 1.5 pitch.. definatly metric! I called around to try and find any one that carried a M11 anything... bolt nut, whatever... Nothing.. I called a specialty tool shop and asked if they could get me a M11x1.5 tap or die. They said it would take a week but they could get me one.. I ordered a die for $13 I was hoping to be able to ram the die a M12 bolt but there was still way too much meat there. I found someone that would machine it down to 11mm for me then I tapped it. Perfect fit!!

I'm thinking that the ignitor is the sort of thing that either works or not at all.

Yes you are right, tire size plays a role as well. I didn't get into that because some days you don't feel like posting a novel when most people just want a quick answer. Myself I always have tried to keep tire size somewhat near stock height so as NOT to throw out the speedometer, but that is just my preference. 4znova1, here are a couple of links you might find useful: http://www.geocities.com/z_design_studio/ http://www.miata.net/garage/tirecalcold.html I run the 3.54 diff along with the 83 Nissan 5spd. I like the combination rather than have a setup that causes me to have to shift constantly. I guess depending on your point of view you might say it is "sluggish" off the start. Turbo engines are kinda use two ends of the spectrum, they can be gutless with little off the hop go and need a big of a flogging to get them to really pick up hard. I personally would rather lose some zip off idle under light throttle and have the gearing I need for a full out, heavy throttled launch. In which case it is not sluggish at all.. In fact I have a serious traction problem. It's all in the preference, I hope those links help you out.

Best bet is the 3.54. The turbo engine has way more torque, with a 3.90 you will go through the gears so fast you will end up spending more time shifting gears than winding through them. Also consider using a later model transmission as well.

Do you know anyone that can draw it up on auto-cad? If so I could have them made up for you (water-jet cutter) I could also get them drawn up, but you'd have to send me a gasket.

Yes, the transistor that mounts right there with the coil. There are other transistor units that will work if you need to replace that too. I have used ones from Pathfinders, z31's, Pulsars, even a Mercury Villager/Quest. Again, a little re-wiring is required. The one that gives you the cleanest looking install IMO is the 80's Pathfinders and early Pulsars Here is a pic of my 76 with a Pathfinder coil/trigger that 4pin plug is how it plugs in. ftp://ftp.shaw.ca/Alckyinjection/Nozzles.JPG

The only thing special about the 280zxt coil is the trigger box. That trigger will run a z31 coil, msd, ect.. Just a little re-wiring of the connectors is all you need to do.

Well I am not really familiar with the stock FPR, I don't even know exactly what it looks like or what kind of plug it has. All I can tell you is that the fuel pump relay needs four wires: signal or "trigger" that goes to the ecu (-) 12 volt (+) source to complete the coil trigger (ideally switched to ignition, but straight battery power will also work) The way it is described in that site about using the black/white wire will work, but that comes from the efi relay (another source of possible error) The above two form the "low current side" The two below are the "high current side" 12volt + straight to battery (with a fuse in between) Output to the fuel pump (+)

I only know of two relays that are directly related to the engine control system. (efi and fuel pump relays) If you wired up the swap yourself I would assume you already know where the fuel pump relay is, as it needs a 12volt + source added to it to run this swap. Are you still using the stock fuel pump relay, or did you add a different one? For my car I never used the stock one because it is in a nasty spot and I don't like crawling around under the dash. Plus I had already added my own 12 guage wires to the fuel pump itself

I would start by bypassing the fuel pump relay completely. Basically, unplug the FPR and stick a jumper wire between the two connections that that complete the high current side. Doing this should cause the fuel pump to run all the time regardless if the engine is running or not. If it runs good, and continues to run good, I would suspect a screwy FPR or the signal wire from the ecu.

I was looking at transmisions on ebay: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/95-UP-NISSAN-TRUCK-P-U-2WD-V6-5-SPEED-TRANSMISSION_W0QQitemZ320090014801QQcategoryZ33733QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem Would this one be like the 2wd truck/pathfinder (shorty) transmisions that were discussed earlier? There is no shifter in the pic, but looks like it just bolts into the top.