78 LS2 Z

This is kind of why I stated I was limited for muffler choices. I thought the tank was a bit large too but I think it will work fine with some bullet type mufflers. I am hoping that a 3" exhaust is not going to create ground clearance issues, I'm sure I'll have to adjust my ride height to some extent, hopefully not too much. It's all just a guess for me until I get the LT headers to my door and can trailer the car to the exhaust shop for a quote. Post some pics of your setup when you are complete, I would be interested in seeing your setup.

I'm pretty much doing the same thing as Sunny Z (not sure about his setup but I have a LS-1 Camaro gas tank to accommodate the dual exhaust). I haven't decided on mufflers 100% but it looks like my choices will be limited to a "bullet" type muffler. I was going to run dual exhaust even before the group LT header buy- now with the long tubes I'm glad I planned for this. Now if I could just decide on a cam....

You are sure that you have the small block mounts and not the LS-1 mounts (or otherwise), correct?

I'm running 2003 Cobra brakes up front (MM hubs)and the stock rear brakes from a 1996 Infinity Q45 (Full Technotoy short nose R-200 conversion, which uses 1990-1996 Infinity brake components). The only real downside I see for the Cobra fronts is weight. The rotors are just pigs and pretty heavy, but they are good brakes with 13" rotors. It's too bad that extra weight is where you don't need it.

OK, the most painful for me was while under the car, welding upside down on my fuel tank bracket and having a nice ball of weld splatter drop right into my ear. It's amazing how similar bacon sounds when frying compared to the insides of your ear. All I could do is cringe in agony while listening to it cook until it went out...Now that hurt!!! I've since started using foam earplugs too when welding upside down, but with my luck the darned foam will catch fire....

I think the worst I have done was when I was pounding on something near the rear of the car and had a dirt dauber nest come loose (Still don't know where it was) and the way I was laying it just dropped perfectly into my mouth and went right down, didn't even get a chance to chew it up...Worst part that it was a fairly fresh nest with the contents still inside. Needless to say it didn't stay there long...I guess in this case my Datsun left something of it with me.

This is probably not what you want to hear, but I would sell the 93 engine and go searching for a complete 5.0 liter HO/T-5 tranny takeout from a Fox body Stang- by the time you start piece-mealing parts together it would probably be cheaper in the long run (without any compatibility issues with "unknown" parts)..You can get these combos dirt cheap these days if you shop and you'll gain quite a bit of power gain over the non HO 302....Plus, if you want to upgrade, parts are cheap, dependable and readily available, not so much on a non HO engine, which has nearly zero aftermarket support. Plus, if you get the computer it's a simple conversion and you will have EFI and good gas mileage.

I believe 1992 was actually the last year for the forged pistons, important to know since the body changes started in 1994 and most people assume 1994 was the first year for cast pistons. A 1992 and 1993 engine are visually identical. You can tell a 1993 engine from a 1994 engine by the intake manifold, it was redesigned (more restrictive) due to the packaging problems with the SN-95 chassis. If you are looking for forged pistons, look for an 87-92 engine.

I had the same issues and had to beat the passenger side floorboard to get the damned thing to work. Had I known about the problems people are having, I would have fabricated my own 2 piece mount (similar to a two piece driveshaft loop, "L" bracket welded to either side with the center section bolted). This was easily the worst part of the whole conversion, at least in my situation. I didn't have any other fitament issues except for this mount. As a side note, my car has never been wrecked and has no structural issues (this is a 1978 280Z). I just didn't like the design of a (1) piece crossmember between the frame rails since it severely limits your adjustability. Now I am too concerned about exhaust clearance in this area. I will be running a true dual exhaust (Camaro LS-1 fuel tank)and exiting out the rear. I may have to re-think the crossmwember design. I may get under my car this weekend, measure and see what I can come up with (via AutoCad) and post the design for comments and discussion. This worries me now, it's really gonna bite if I have to rip this junk out and start over...... PS- the quality of the JCI mount was very good, welds were very nice and an overall good fabrication job. It just didn't fit that great...

Oh boy Oh boy Oh boy!!!! (Insert Newman voice)...

If MM does not have it in stock and ready to ship, don't even bother......

Wonder if we could get some group pricing on this? I'd be in at a decent price....

There are many variables that ultimately effect your exact mph. You may get some minor variance with the factors you mention, but a general rule of thumb is that MPH does give a good indication of the power a car makes. If the car is consistently at the same MPH through the traps then you can predict power. If the MPH is consistently down then there is more weight or less power than you think. This is simple math. Maybe you skipped math class when you were taking Drag Racing 101...The MPH is low given the weight of the car and the power you state the car makes, that can't be argued and that is my point. I'm not talking about spinning off the line or any of these factors you mention, I am talking about repeatable, consistent runs to establish a MPH average.

Dude, your ET tells you how well you hook up and drive the car, that's all. MPH tells the story for a car's power, period. MPH doesn't care about traction, etc....That being said, my statement that the MPH is low for that power and weight is correct. Nobody cares what a car weighs without the driver. The weight of the car with you in it is how this is calculated, unless you plan on driving it remotely. Nobody is bashing you or your car, the MPH just looks low. YOU are the one who opened this can of worms with your opening statements, so bash yourself for running off your own topic!

The car could be heavier than he thinks..I would have to agree that the mile per hour is down quite a bit for 398 RWHP and 3500 lbs. Ideally, the ET should be in the 12 flat range at 111-113 mph. So, if the chassis dyno was accurate, this car weighs more than he thinks....I'm not doubting he made 398 HP, but something else is going on to get that low a MPH. That MPH suggests a much heavier car, over 4000 lb....

The Techno Toy kit uses the short nose R200 from a 1990-1996 Q45; very easy to source. The Techno Toy kit also solves your rear brake problem and uses all the brake components from the same year Infinity. I'm sure even the parking brakes can be made to work although I haven't tackled this part of my project yet.

From the nightmare experiences I have read concerning this topic (and a friend telling me he would rather pass a 5 lb kidney stone then change another pin)I went straight to the machine shop when it was time. They didn't have any problems removing them and even gave me the undamaged pins back. I wasn't going to reuse them as I had already bought another replacement set. Money well spent IMHO.....

Payment sent, thanks to all!

I started on my car in 2005 and have been lurking about for some time. I've (just last month) finally got the GTO LS2/T-56 into it's new home. I still have brake lines to run (replacing all lines), finish the exhaust, fab custom driveshaft and get the cooling system installed. I've waited this long, what's another couple of years....Actually I hope to have mine on the road by next summer, still need to paint everything but the engine bay. The maiden voyage will likely be without paint, just primer! Besides body work, what took me the longest was the TT suspension/Q45 rear conversion but the biggest problem is just getting time to do it....I've got everything I need but the radiator and time to do it. You and John's hard work and research is appreciated! This site has saved my life, if it could only save my knuckles... BTW I have the gas tank from your donor 98 LS-1 car, that was somewhat of a pain to get in as well with custom bracketry- but I have room for dual exhausts now.

I think I saw your LS-1 car the first time when I was scavenging the "All Z cars" bone yard in Fort Worth several years back....Nice, clean car. I would say it is certainly one of the more recognizable and researched cars on this site, I immediately recognized it and didn't even look for the custom plates for positive ID.

Called Blake and left a message, payment is ready as soon as I get a total for shipping to 75433....-Will

OK, I just don't think i can deal with shorties.....put me on the list please.... (1) set VB option please.

If you oversize your turbo from the start, you are hosed....It's always better to be conservative with a smaller turbo- If you are stuck between deciding on two, go with the smaller turbo.

I could swear my OEM emblems for my 78 are plastic....I'll have to check mine.

Cable, any updates?