Stunt

1 large black hoodie 1 large black t shirt 95050

I was having issues with installation of Fidanza flywheel onto my L28 crankshaft. Bolt holes will line up but not able to install flywheel onto crankshaft as the diameter on the flywheel is not as big as Crankshaft. I purchased the Fidanza flywheel from Jegs.com. Will provide pics soon

Looking for Bay Area reputable transmission shop for 5 speed rebuild.

Sorry guys for the late reply. I got R200 mustache bar for cheap with new bushings.

Anyone got pics of zcardepot r200 mustache bar on their S30 chassis? How do you like it?

Nice video

What's my order status?

Zip code 95050 1 Large short sleeve asphalt gray 1 Large black hoodie

Thanks. For the info

Borrowed this photo

L28 n42/n42 Dual SU's MSA 6-1 header 280zx electronic dizzy Car runs Can I delete this hard line?

I'll take a pic soon and post it.

I cut out an upside U-shaped tab where the floating nuts would be and bent it down. Then bent the tab holding the floating nut upwards. Changed out the floating nuts. Bent both tabs back into place.

I ended up cutting the old floating frame nuts out bending the tab down and bending it back. JB weld the metal back.

UPDATE: Got my transmission mounted back up. Engine is running but running too rich. I got the front SU carb to perfect air/fuel according to the Gunson tool. The rear SU carb is too rich even if I totally lean it out. Still perplexed, but determined to get it running good.

Is this what you mean?

I messed up the threads by drilling to fast and causing the hole to become bigger than normal while using the tap.

If I were to bring it to a shop. I would take the motor and tranny out first and strip the seats, carpet, tunnel vinyl, center console. Just to make it easier for the shop to perform the work.

Here are the pics of the new transmission tunnel ears.

UPDATE: I recently posted a WTB craigslist ad. This guy responded to my ad says he has a series 1 240z production date 12/70. He will be cutting it up and offered to sell me the transmission tunnel ears. He showed me pics and told the threads were in good condition. No rust around the ears. I just have to go and pick them up in Sacramento Area. I was thinking of having a shop just remove the old ones and weld in the new ones since I have no welding experience.

I will get some photos this weekend.

I did go up in size to an m10 bolt. The previous owner tapped the passenger side to an m10 bolt. I did the driver side first with an m8 size but failed. Now i tried to do the drivers side again with an m10 size but also failed with using the cordless drill. Should i try to attempt to JB weld then drill and tap m10? Or is it not adviseable due to the weight and vibration of the transmission?

I did not break the tap. I used a drill with the correct next size 10x1.25 as an extension. Basically made the hole too big without thread. The tap set I have, did not have longer taps. The tool would not have been able to move since the taps are so short. The tool was so short I could not turn by hand. The tool would touch the floor board without me actually centering it. That's why I used an electric cordless drill and try to do slowly. In the end I messed up. Now I regret my actions. I don't want to give up and sell or part out my car. I've invested too much money to let this project go. Should I just source a parting out series 1 Z car and have the body shop drill out the spot welds on both? Replace the bad ones with the new.

Check your grounds. Make sure your connections are not corroded. Also check your wiring to see if they are brittle and hard. If so, you might have to change out those wires. Those brittle wires might be frail and not making good conductivity.

I'm gonna attempt to to cut out a slit of metal and swap the floating nut and have a friend weld back the piece. Wish me luck.