Boy from Oz

I'm not sure that it is a requirement of our regs. I was of the impression that the dust seal are more a durability factor than performance or reliability. Does anyone know if I'm correct or not with that assumption. As I'm building a 250 GTO I will be fitting Dayton wire wheels. They have a good measurement guide which helps you to assess your wheel options. http://www.daytonwirewheels.com/pdf/dwwmeasurementguide.pdf NZeder - I would appreciate those pics and the measurement details when you have installed the calipers. Will you be re-drilling the crossmember (bumpsteer modification) while it is off the car, prior to having it painted?

With the Aussie dollar at a ten year high against the Greenback now is the time to start importing some bits, unfortunately, you have thrown up even more doubts about what exactly to buy. The overhang on the US Brake F88i make them a possible option but can anyone tell me if they have dust seals or not. The lack of dust seals is my concern with the Willwoods.

Try searching under "stitch welding" (another popular term for the process), there have been several threads on the topic. Oh ... and good luck, I'm just about to undertake the same task.

Thanks. I tried that before posting. It gives the rear track at 1347mm but I've always assumed that measured from the centres of the wheels. That's probably fairly close but I would like to be sure.

Does anyone have the dimension from the outer face of one rear axle shaft to the outer face of the other rear axle shaft on a 3/73 240Z (2 seater). My car is stripped to the shell at the moment and I'm trying to work out some wheel off-set options. Thanks

They may be Italian made O.Z wheels seen here on a Classic Revival 250 GTO. http://www.classicrevival.com.au/250gto.htm http://www.ozracing.com/2006/pages/index.php?lang=en You probably know my puritan views on these issues but take another look at the Daytons in Speed's photos and then decide for yourself which you prefer. While on the subject of replicas (facsimiles actually) I read where the windscreen on the 250 GTO was intended to have more of an incline, similar to the Zed, but the Italian registration of the time required it to be more vertical. So the Zed is closer to the original Ferrari design than the actual 250 GTO!

Here are some pics of my RHD pedal box and steering rack. May or may not help. Sorry, some images are not the best quality. Car is stripped so if you want any particular photo taken let me know. (FD 02 - I remember Shellharbour in the 60s and 70s when it was a fishing hamlet and weekend holiday place. Now, as they say, it's 'tar and cement')

Here are some Oz suppliers listed in a previous enquiry, but, as with the UK, the freight cost will probably be high http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=117089

These are the sill (rocker) covers that came with my kit (Speed thinks it's mainly an Alpha 1 kit). As you can see they are not yet fitted and I must say that I have had trouble picturing in my mind how much they would change the profile of the rockers. My guess is that you fill the ends with body filler, and at a couple of points in between to add support, so that it basically creates the same profile but saves a few kilos of filler. The best approach might be Zerrari's idea of fitting the front and rear panels and then make a sheetmetal cover to suit the dimensions you have, with the lip design that has been mentioned. Change of topic, but very relevant to 250 GTO with twin REAR exhaust. Zerrari - I noticed elsewhere that you have, or intend to make, a front diff mount for twin exhaust. I am about to do the same. I have noticed this done elsewhere on HybridZ but it worried me that the two mounts had (apparently) been cut in a straight cross section in the middle and then welded. I think it might be a bit more structurally sound to stagger the section, the way A-pillars are cut and joined in a 'cut & shut". Any thoughts.

Ol' Timer - I would appreciate some photos. It appears that the older I get the more I become a visual learner. You seem to be referring to the alignment of the sides of the bonnet (hood). To date I have only been considering issues relating to the front edge alignment, I hadn't even considered the sides. Regarding the front edge, I have been considering whether to fabricate a framework forward of the radiator (as per a 250 GTO, see photo) so that I could attach the front section to something in addition to the inner guards' lip - it would also enable attachment of the driving lights, ducting for the front brakes, etc. Any thoughts by anyone on the idea?

It appears that the leading edge of the bonnet (sorry, hood) goes very close to the support bracket for the hinge when the hood is open. Is there a mechanical 'stop' incorporated in the hinge, or elsewhere, or do you just have to be careful on not over-open?

Dick - thanks. I'll keep an eye out for the Corvette hinges on e-Bay. I would appreciate the any images you have of your set-up. I'll e-mail in the next few days but progress has fluctuated between very very slow and non-existent.

Mike - Sorry I can't help there but you have reminded me of a bodywork question I have. My kit is of unknown origin to me but the hinge mounts on the bonnet (hood) look very purpose built. Does anyone recognise the kit from the mounts and do you know if the mounts are designed for a specific hinge? Thanks.

Boy from Oz - those look really slick but can you still shut the bonnet of a Z with one oth those ? No, I don't think so, that's why I feel the radiator needs to be moved back and lowered. You would have to fabricate a new lower radiator mount - either at piece across the rails or two support brackets protruding back from the existing heavy front cross-rail. The top supports should not be too difficult as they are not weight bearing. The V8s leave a fair bit of space up front so the relocation should not be a problem nor would lowering the radiator expose it to bottoming. However, you would be reducing section of the radiator subject to direct air flow and I'm not sure how critical that will be or whether it could be compensated for with scoops and deflectors. I would very much appreciate you spending time, money and effort on this idea and then letting me know if it works!!!

These are more the style of over-the-radiator cold air intakes I was thinking of. http://www.surefloexhaust.com.au/otrcai.htm http://cgi.ebay.com.au/COLD-AIR-INTAKE-VT-VX-VU-HOLDEN-HSV-MONARO-UTE_W0QQitemZ300081010841QQihZ020QQcategoryZ102360QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem They were on e-Bay a few months ago with a range of colours and even one with a carbon-fibre appearance.

ZHeadV8 - don't forget that the Pontiac GTO and Vauxall is a Monaro that were built in Oz and there are plenty of after-market suppliers down here (short shifters, etc), though probably not financially viable for US owners with their own large market. I am also proposing to use a fuel cell but I will be fitting the sender unit from the donor car. Check to see if there are any wrecked Vauxalls in the UK. Following the demise of the Monaro I believe that GM are to start shipping 40,000+ Commodores per year to the States as Pontiacs G8s, perhaps as Vauxalls to the UK as well, so there should be an ongoing supply for Z transplants.

I'm going through the sames issue. GM Direct appears to be the way to go for non-USA builders. You can purchase new parts from them for less than some are paying on e-bay. The pick-up tube part number refered to is called a 'screen' at GM Direct - I know there would be a screen on the bottom of the tube but just make sure on that part. Otherwise all the items listed by Pop on the other thread are clear. I am worried about all the ancillary bits for the engine (pollution gear, etc. necessary down here) so I'm hoping to get a wreck and transplant everything (see below). One more thought. I'm really keen on an 'over the radiator' cold air intake arrangement and I'm considering setting the radiator back (75-100mm) and lower to facilitate the intake. I know some have tilted the radiator to do this but you might want to give some thought to the 'back & lower' idea. I think that properly executed it would look terrific. Oh, and pass on the problems you encountered so that I can avoid them! You owe it to me after we let you win the ODI series! http://www.manheimfowles.com.au/find_buy/power_search/index.mpl?unit_key=34276_AU202049423-34276;detail_tab=vinfo;tab=transmission_name;fulltext=;stream=Salvage;vehicle_type_desc=4x4s;vehicle_type_desc=Cars;vehicle_type_desc=Trucks;vehicle_type_desc=Vans;make=Holden;displacement=5.7L;transmission_name=Manual;state_all=1;rm=view_detail

Here are just two. http://www.hdrogers.com/ferrariparts.html http://www.italiancarparts.com/badges_script/badges_script.html#fer And here are the front indicators http://www.omicron.uk.com/omi-fulv.html

There is one here in Oz built on a Hilux chassis http://videos.streetfire.net/search/260z/0/7186c0ae-e364-42a3-8d10-9866007c6452.htm http://www.seacsa.com/hillclimb/hillclimb.htm

Duke - I think the diagram in your post is from a 4-door civic. The button from a 4-door is not the correct one, it has a rotation action and not the longitudinal action of the rear door button on a 2-door civic. I will post a photo of the two tomorrow, I've misplaced my camera. (done) The one on the left is from the 2 door (the one you need) and the other is from the 4 door, it has a rotation action (unsuitable for the latch mechanism at the start of this thread) Someone please correct me if I'm wrong. bj - thanks for the heads-up on the photography, I think I've got it.

I think the Honda lock is the way to go, not only because of its size but because there is a diagram of the latch mechanism available otherwise you will have to create something new for the MG lock. Here is my suggestion on how to find them. Make contact with an appropriate car club in your State, eg. Honda Civic Car Club and link up with someone who has a 73-77 Civic - they usually have two or three cars as spares. If they don't they will know every auto recycler in the State who has them - just like you know where to get bits for your Zed. It worked for me.

Having had a closer read of this thread there are a couple of points that need clarification. Speedracer states that the MG mechanism has a rotation function. The item I called MG in my earlier post/photo does have a rotation movement, but only to act as a lock, ie. it rotates the plunger to prevent it levering the latch mechanism but when in an unlocked position it is the longitudinal movement that actives the latch mechanism. The item I called MG came with my kit and I have assumed it is MG - I have kept it attached to its latch mechanism in this photo so perhaps someone can verify it is in fact from an MG. The point of this is; assuming it is off an MG then consideration need to be given as to whether the fabricated latch mechanism discussed earlier will adapt to the MG lock. The Honda locking is contained in the barrel of the lock, ie. preventing any longitudinal movement, whereas the MG plunger is always free to move longitudinally but when rotated will not engage the latch mechanism. Also my original comparison photo showed the Honda item with its original large chrome collar/spacer. I have removed it for this photo to show the stark difference between a fitted Honda lock and the MG one. I think 'chelle' has manufactured and fitted a smaller collar/spacer whereas Speedracer has discarded it altogether. (Thanks bjhines - I've had a go but will need mor practice)

Here is a photo of the MG and Civic buttons side by side. Both operate via the longitudinal movement of the plunger, ie. no rotation is required.

Many thanks - free accomodation is yours next time you're this side of the Pacific. There are very few Corvettes down here so that's also an expensive option. We just have plenty of GTOs

Thanks - A used pan and pick-up went for $185US last week on ebay but the price of new parts from GM Direct looks competitive and I think I will go that route. I've found the part numbers for the pan, dipstick and tube but can't find them for the pick-up and windage tray. Does anyone know them?