zane9000

I was working on this at my dads house. He's moving and was cleaning out his garage. About the time I finished, he pulled an air compressor out and ask me if I had any use for it... Next time will be much easier.

yeah, the hone was a no go. I managed to get by with my drill and rotary file. I used something like this http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_00967037000P?vName=Tools&cName=PowerToolAccessories&sName=Drill%20Bits&psid=FROOGLE01&sid=IAx20090815x000001&aff=Y. The aluminum really does build up in it quickly though. After some practice, I was able to get it done cleanly. Thanks for all of the advice.

thanks folks. I will be experimenting today.

piston, I assume you are talking about a rasp. That is what I tiried first, not a whole lot better. kiwi, I had thought about using a hone, but after looking into it, it seemed that they were only meant to take off surface rust/ imperfections. I was looking at the hones with 3 stones though, not a ball hone. Are ball hones better for this? I have a metal hole saw that I was thinking about trying tomorrow, as long as I can keep it centered it should be ok... Thanks for the input!

I am not really sure if this is in the right section, but I took a guess. I am putting together a custom intake and I need to enlarge the bore of an intake manifold. I tried using a rotary file, but the bore is not as even as I was hoping. Is there a particular tool I should be using for this? At think point I think I may just do the best I can with the rotary file, then spend some time with sandpaper to even it out. Thanks, Warren

Thank you very much. That is just what I needed!

Can someone please post a picture of how the distributor shaft is supposed to look when the engine is at TDC please? I have a feeling that I managed to install it completely wrong and want to verify that is my problem before I drain my new oil :s.

I just wanted to make sure that a rapid pressure drop like that after it was shut off was not normal for any pump. I had never seen it before, but I wanted to double check.

I am having trouble getting my car up and running for the first time and I have two questions I have come up with. So far the only way I can get the car to run at all is if I pump the gas constantly and have some the accel enrichments turned on. If I zero them out the car will stumble a bit but wont start. I have had my ASE anywhere from 0-50% with pretty much the same result. First, and most likely, problem is fuel. I am using an old mystery pump I pulled off a junkyard Z. I dont think it is stock. It takes 4-6 seconds to pressurize the system and once it is turned off the pressure will drop from ~40psi to ~5psi in under a minute. I was able to get the car to run on this pump previously, but that was over a year ago on a different setup. Also I don't remember the pump having such a problem holding pressure. Does this sound like something that would cause my stating problem? My second guess is the coil not getting enough current. I am using direct spark output from MSII and have it run through the cab to the coil with 18guage wire. Is this to thin? I had run 10gauge on a previous setup that worked, but this seemed to be overkill. edit: The title is supposed to be "Few Quick Questions" but Im a non-proofreading jerk and now I cant edit the title....

I wanted to set up a PWM fuel pump control so I could run a single fuel line to the engine bay. I have a Pallnet fuel rail with (I think) 1/4" NPT threads on either end. My hope was to be able to have to fuel line attatch from the rear (near the fire wall) and plug the other with a screw in pressure sensor that I would wire to my PWM controller. I have searched around a bit and have not been able to find much of anything. Any suggestions as to what I might be able to fit in there? Maybe a 280zxt oil pressure sensor with an adapter (probably wont read pressure high enough though)?

Nevermind. A bit more reading shows that there would be too much delay with the vacuum ref.

I am replacing the hard fuel lines on my car this weekend and I really would prefer not to have to run both a supply and return line. Can I just put the FPR at the tank and plug the return line of the rail? I know this would solve the pressure issue, but I am worried about the gas getting too hot if its not moving fast enough. I have read abut returnless systems with PWM controlled pump so I guess it would be ok, I just thought I would get some opinions first.

Ug, I am not exited about disassembling motors at the junkyard... I think Ill just pay more at the parts store

I just finished playing with the ozdat calculator and decided that I will use a set of LZ22S pistons. Any suggested sources, or should I just grab some from my local auto parts store?

If the dished pistons would work that would be great. The only reason I had a concern is that I put those items into this (http://www.atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/calcs/engine%20builder/index.html) calculator and it said I would have an issue with deck height.

I am aware about the compression issue, thats why I was planning on using the 2mm head gasket to help as much as possible. I am also going to be using megasquirt to regulate fuel and spark and I will be very conservative with boost. Would the stock L28 pistons work ok or do I need to look for another option?

I have some spare parts hanging around so I was thinking about building up an engine with the following: L28 Crank, L24 Rods, E88 Head, 2mm Head gasket, N47 Block. This is going to be on a forced induction setup. I am trying to decide on pistons. I would like to use to use l28 flat pistons, but as I understand there will be a deck height clearance. If I use stock KA24 pistons will I need to overbore the cylinders? Also, are the KA24 and KA24E the same thing, if so are these (http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/90-97-2-4-NISSAN-Pick-Up-KA24E-sohc-Piston-Set-Rings_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ33665QQihZ020QQitemZ300194243674QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWDVW) a good buy? They seem pretty cheap. Thanks!

I guess Ill go for it then. I just wanted to make sure the wider tires would be an issue. Thanks!

I have the same problem with this. I never receive any emails when people use the "Contact Seller" link. I have checked by spam folder and the emails dont show up there either. The only way I even found out about this is that I had someone comment on my add saying that he emailed me but I never responded. I even tried it myself and verified it was trying to send to the correct email and still I saw nothing show up..

I am in San Jose. All the PNPs around here are usually pretty bare in the S30 department.... sometimes Ill see an S130, but thats it. What yards do you goto?

Looks great! Just do something about the wires sticking out of your steering column and youll be set.

Yeah, I saw that. But I am not willing to drive to AZ for a free window. Thanks for the heads up though.

I am on the fence about doing this. I have an R180 and plan on upgrading to a R200 w/LSD in the next year or so; this ill just be a temporary "solution"... My main concern that I have 9" wide rear tires and I am thinking it will be considerably harder to make turns than with the stock tires. Has anyone had experience with this sort of set up?

Thanks guys. I will look for one of those drain plugs at my local auto parts store.

I really dont need to go that big. But I was just curious about the benefits ifI goto larger injectors. I was thinking I may eventually put one 440cc per throttle body for normal use then have a 1000cc switch on for high load situations... but that will be in the future.