zane9000

So a while back MSA sent me a set of headers by mistake so I dont know much about it. I called them many times to arrange a pickup and have it sent back and they kept saying they would send a courier and never did... so its mine now . It is one of their ceramic coated sets with that was smog ready. I have 2 questions: 1. Is the O2 sensor bung in a good place for a wide band? My main concern here is that it will only get readings from one cylinder. Wouldn't it be better to mount it at the collector rather than on one of the runners? 2. There is a small tube coming off of one of the other runners. It has a different thread on it than the 02 bung. From my manual I think it is supposed to supply a link to the EGR valve. I just need to plug it up, anyone know what thread size it is?

I may contact him about it. I think I am going to try and find a local piece one more time before ordering another. I really would like to go the lexan route, just have to finish some other things on the car before that particular expense. Thanks for all the advice on this topic, I really meant for this to just be about aerodynamics over running with no windows vs. "window condoms" but this has been more than helpful.... although in retrospect I should have placed the question in a different forum.... sorry about that...

San Jose Pick 'n' Pulls make me sad. First off, I have seen very few Datsuns in general. Also, there is a recycler in San Jose that gets to everything first. The only thing that is usually left in the few cars there is one of the guys business cards Maybe things are different now, I gave up on PNP for S30 parts a year ago.

scratch that... dosent look like they have speedglass for S30s...

Wow, that looks great. It is a bit pricey, but it should be worth it. I really would like to eliminate the regulator all together and I should just be able to bolt those windows right on. Thanks a bunch!

I have read a bit about lexan windows, but havent found anyone that is selling them. Know anyone that can cut some? And at what cost? My main concern would be getting the convex shape to seal correctly. I think it might be a neat idea to have four pins that hold the window in place and are easily removable on a hot day. I have never found a first gen Z at the JY's in my area. I did buy a replacement window from a recycler in Florida for $50 a while back, but when I received a box of shattered glass and he refused to give a refund, my faith in mail order windows went down a bit.

Hadnt thought about that... but thats why I asked before I sold my other good window.

A while back someone broke into my car through my drivers side window. Now I am left in a position where I either need to find/buy a new window OR just remove the windows regulator all together and pull the passengers side window to match. I am really not planning on using the car for anything other than weekend drives and the occasional track day so I thought I might benefit from the weight reduction. However, I am aware that this will create more drag in the car. My solution was to get some clear, flexible PVC or vinyl "pockets" made that will slip over the window frame to keep the wind out. Does this sound reasonable?

I'm going to be running a megasquirt with dual throttle bodies with throttle body injection. I was wondering what peoples opinions were about running 2 injectors (primaries) per throttle body for low load situations and having a third (secondary) injector kick in for high load situations. I have seen this concept applied to rotary cars and was just wondering if it would be worth experimenting with.

I was under the impression that the Z's didnt use starter relays... perhaps solenoid is bad? When I rewired my car I used the radioshack part you mentioned for all of the relays (including a starter relay that I added). I think it should work just fine for most auto applications (of course, to be fair, I am a bit partial since I work there)

Great, thanks for the info guys!

Is there anyway to convert O-Ring injectors to barb injectors? It seems to me that if you just smooth off the sides of the inlet you should be able to clamp a hose on there? I have kind of a unique set up that I am trying to make work and I don't really want a fuel rail, but the injectors I want to use are O-Ring. Any Suggestions?

I work at a RadioShack and just checked our stock. I dont see any 6ohm 25watt resistors. The closest that we have are 8 ohm 20 watt resistors (271-120)which I think will work fine for your application. I am personally using 10ohm 10watt resistors (271-132) for my own set up and have not seen any issues yet.

After looking at both manifolds closely I sort of came to the some conclusion. I think I will just try to put the injector bungs on the carb manifold itself... Seems like that would be easier to get a shop to do.

I guess it was just part of the breaker plate. It looks like it was holding some small balls to help it rotate which I found while taking apart the dizzy. I guess I dont need it anyway because I am locking both the mechanical and vacuum advance down on this thing, so I will just put it back together and hope for the best..

Just looked up the code stamped on it and it appears someone put a distributor from a pre-77z into the ZX I grabbed it from .. O well, I am still curious about the stator...

I pulled a used distributor from an early ZX the other day, and when I was taking it apart I found a brown ring that was broken into three pieces under the breaker plate. I assumed it was the stator because I didnt see anything else that could be, but when I looked at the exploded view of my distributor in my Chilton manual it does not list a stator or magnetic assembly for my distributor like it does for the others. I have one of the earlier distributors with the ignition module mounted on the fender well not the distributor body. If that ring was not a stator, then what could it have been, was it important, or was it one of those pesky "extra parts"?

I have a carb manifold, I have an EFI manifold. I want the EFI flange on the carb manifold but I am having trouble finding a shop that will weld it for me. I have a brazing torch and was wondering if I could use that to joint the manifold to the flange. I am pretty new at this stuff so any advice would be great. Thanks, Warren

Do you mean the one on the top is the one to use or the one to ignore?

Im not sure if it was an automatic, I really just grabbed it without looking at the car at all. I know it was a bit foolish, but I was in a big hurry. From what I read in my manual the dual pickup was exclusively for the automatic cars though...

I grabbed a dual pickup dizzy off of a 280ZX in the junk yard the other day. I was planing on using this with an HEI module, but I am not sure what to do with the second pickup. Should I just pull it out and use it like a single pickup unit? Im not sure what year the car was, but Im sure it was an earlier one because the ignition module was not connected to the distributor body. Thanks, Warren

xander, know anyone that is selling those throttle bodies? or am i going to be making a trip to the junk yard?

well, I AM going to have to go with the dual throttle body SU set up to get my supercharger to work (long story) so since I have to do some customizing anyway, I was just wondering which way would be better in the long run. But I think I will just drill 6 holes at the base of the runners so I can still use my fuel rail that has the stock positions on it.

i have toyota 440cc injectors with a palnet rail now. and yes, you did have some good idea in the other thread. I just thought i would ask this specific question in a new thread so as to not get too far from what OTM was talking about

that's true. specifically i am asking because now I'm am wondering where I should put the injectors on the SU manifold that I am converting to EFI. I had originally planed to do port injection but after olderthanme's thread I got to thinking about the possible benefits of TBI.