zane9000

Im looking for a shop that is familiar with Megasquirt-II and can tune my car. I am still not sure if I will go to them, I was just curious if anyone knows of any tuner shops that could help. Thanks, Warren

Exactly. I already have a 110VAC system in my car so all I have to do is tap into it, connect the transformer and Im set. And yes, Im well aware how dangerous this sort of thing can get, but I do have a pretty good amount of experience with it.

Thanks for the tips Alex. I really like the opamp idea. I have a transformer and power inverter already laying around the house. I am going to hook it up with those for proof of concept first and if everything works correctly I will definitely look for a suitable op-amp.

Alex, good idea. I hadnt thought of that for some reason. Unfortunatly, I realised the other day that the voltage needs to be AC for this valve. Moby, I had thought about this, but then I would have to build some sort of oscillator to change the 12vdc to 12vac for the transformer to work. What I have decided to do is run a small power inverter and step the 110vac down to 24vac. That way I wont have to build any oscillators or anything myself.

I have never had a heat shield on any of my builds. and I can definitely say that my engine bay is definitely hotter with the MSA Headers than it was with my old Nissan Comp Headers. But its ok, the car isn't having any running issues yet, I just thought it was a bit weird.

I don't think its so much that the heat is kept inside better, I think the headers are actually dissipating heat very quickly. My engine bay is much hotter ever since I did this build up. Also the headers do get extremely hot very quickly, they just also happen to cool pretty quickly. My thought was that the coating was supposed to keep them from heating quickly, or as you suggest, keep the heat from escaping, this does not seem to be the case. However, I think you are right about it being due to how thin the metal is, I hadn't thought of that before.

It has been hot here lately, about 100+ degree kind of hot. I have been out doing a bit of work on my car, in the sun :S and noticed something odd. My MSA Coated Headers (http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/CTGY/PEC03) are the coolest part of my engine bay. Even when its so hot my intake manifold is really unpleasant to touch, my headers remain cool. And again today I noticed that after letting my car warm up, they were the first items to cool down. This leads me to think that they radiate alot of heat, which I dont think is really desireable to have in my engine bay, immediatly below my intake of all places. Is this a normal occurance? Is this something I should even worry about?

Well, as I was reading this post all of my unique items had been listed... all except my Albrex centrifugal supercharger. The mount still needs to be adjusted a bit... but its just about done...

Im only curious about 2 things. How did you get 12 for Req_Fuel, I thought the stock l28 was somewhere in the ball park of 7-8. Also, is there any particular reason you are using 2 simultanious squirts rather than alternating?

Im running MS-II and there isnt an option to just set dwell duty cycle to 75% like on mobys msq file, you have to actually enter in the milliseconds for both spark duration and dwell. I looked up the specs for my coil online and it said that it needed 33degrees for dwell. So how do I convert that to milliseconds? I was thinking about goining with 3ms for dwell and 1ms for spark duration giving me 75% duty, but i didnt know if this was a good idea. I posted on MSEFI with no help. Any ideas?

I bought an 83zxt for 700 with a good motor, but shot interior.

OK, so I finally found a valve that I think will work for this. The only problem is that it is a 24v valve. I know that I need MS to control a relay to turn it on, but does anyone know how to get 24v out of the battery to run through the relay? I was thinking about setting up a voltage multiplier, but I am not sure if it will be able to source enough current to drive the valve...

untill the day the rookie cop sees you reach under the seat and shoots you in the head for fear youre getting a gun

O man, a San Jose guy AND a S.F. guy. How is it that I have never noticed people so close before?

Those look like o-ring injectors. if they are, no they will not work with your stock fuel rail. if they are barb injectors, they might fit. however without any kind of fuel management system i think you are going to be running WAY too rich. like three times too much gas being squirted kind of rich. I would just pick up some cheap injectors in the mean time. Speaking of which, i have a cheap set of stock 77 injectors that i might be able to sell you. PM me if youre interested.

try to manually switch 12v on and off to the coil while someone holds the coil output wire near gound. you should get a spark every time you disconnect the 12v from the coil (assuming the wire is close enough to ground). that will give you an idea if the coil is working at all. As far as the indectors go, if you hit them with 12v really quick, do they open? if so, pull them out and see if they are spraying gas when you open them by applying 12v, or if there is any pressure at all behind them. good luck, I hope this all made sence to you, but its 130am and im tired :S

LOL, yeah. thats what i wound up doing. I just dumped a buch of litter on it and left for work.... the neighbors that i share the garage with are going to be even less happy with me than normal! LOL

yeah... i found that out the hard way this morning. I started the car up with the line disconnected from the tee and forgot to put an oil pan under the car. On the up side I found out that I had a good amount of oil coming off the tee, the down side is that the oil fountain created a gaint puddle in my garage.

Wow, I just keep leaving out important details dont I? Ok, I did mean for it to vent from the intake to the atmosphere, but what I didnt mention is that I have a centrifugal supercharger, not a turbo. So there is no way to use a wastegate to control turbine speed. So pretty much my only option would be to vent the excess pressure somehow... And what I wrote above is the idea that I came up with.

I should clarify something. Yes, I did see the thread about adding boost control with the GM boost solenoid. But it looked like they were doing something to control how the wastegate worked. I am talking about venting 1 or more electronic valves to the atmosphere so it eliminates the need for the wastegate. Also if you put a condition to monitor the TPS, you could use it as a BOV as well. Does this sound reasonable?

So my friend and I were talking today about using MS-II as a boost controller and it got me to thinking that I might be able to do it with the spare outputs from the IAC (I'm already using FIdle for my fan). My plan would be to hook one of the outputs from the IAC control to a vacuum solenoid that would vent to the atmosphere. That way you could set up MS so it would open the solenoid at a certain boost pressure and close it at a slightly lower pressure (since the spare ports have the hysteresis option). What do you guys think? Or has someone already thought of a better way? I did a quick search in the MS sub forum and didn't see anything for boost control...

Just out of curiosity, in this case cant he just stay with simultaneous and change the number of squirts to 1? that way the real and calculated req_fuel will stay the same.

Well, I cant say why he didnt use the MSQ file you put up, but the reason that I sort of worked my own and had people tell me what values they were using is that I could not get MegaTune to read your MSQ file because of my different hardware setup (MS-II). I think people would be more inclined to use the posted settings if they were either put up as screen shots or, as I saw one person do, output a text file with all the variable settings in it.

Hey JessZ, I know how you feel. Ive been there with my Carbs to EFI swap, but its all starting to come together, as Im sure yours will. If youre moving to San Fransico, I live real close, maybe I can lend a hand if you need it. I also still have my set of tripple Webers if you really decide to go back to carbs and want a nice setup.