zane9000

The reason I was asking was that I had heard that TBI can be better because the fuel has more room to vaporize through the intake. But it sounds like port injection is still the way to go.

I was just curious about peoples opinion on which is better. This is meant for a street driven car that I am building for performance. Emissions is not an issue, I am asking stricktly from a performance stand point. I am running a megasquirt so I will have full control over how the fuel is injected.

built it myself. after ive been thinking about this more and more i think maybe i have a bad solder joint and it is possibly arcing a little? im just not used to my solid state stuff making buzzing sounds

as i recall i think the runners go down to about 45mm ID and the TB opening is close to 47.5mm ID, with pleanty of porting room.

has any body looked at the carb manifold from a performance stand point? I know everyone says that the stock efin mani is a pretty poor design, but is that true of the carb mani as well? it looks a bit better than the efi one, but i was wondering other peoples opinions on it..

No, I suppose I will over the weekend. I was just thinking that if it was the diff it would be alot easier to start there, but if ya'll really dont think that the driveshaft play is an issue ill let it go for now.

I was thinking about doing something similar, but instead of having TBI, I was going to use the SU manifold and port the end of the runners so I could still have direct port injection. Then I was thinking I would use two stock EFI 50m TBs to replace where the carbs were. that might be a cheaper way to go assuming you can find some stock TBs easily.

well, i put a jack under the diff and it didnt move as far as i could tell, so i think the mount is ok. I had thought that the clunk was coming from the play in the driveshaft because when I twisted it around it would make the same clunking noise, only alot quieter. I also tried to turn the axle shafts and I didnt feel any play at all in them.

So my car had all bad u-joints in the rear (among other things) that were making some pretty terrible clunking sounds. I got them all replaced and sure enough, the sound was still there (although it was to a much lesser degree). So I slid under the car and twisted the driveshaft around. it has about 1/4 - 1/2 inch of play. all the u-joints are nice and tight, it looks like the play is comming from inside my diff. I looked through my chilton manuel and I couldn not find anything about rebuilding a diff. I am pretty sure that I have an R200 in there, can someone tell me how much work this will be? Or should I just hit the junk yard and pull one out of a dead Z?

100% sure its not the case. You really think I need a whole new MS? Could I just replace the part that is being noisy?

I was out for a test drive last night and I noticed that there is a buzzing sound coming from my MegaSquirt. The buzzing seems to be directly proportionate to RPM, both when I rev the engine with the gas pedal and when I down shift. I am running MS-II on a V3 board using the direct coil ignition. My assumption is that is it coming from the part of the circuit that fires the coil, though I have not had time to verify that. Is this normal? Should I be worried?

I was test driving my car for about an hour or so tonight and I was watching my MegaSquirt gauges and my coolant temp was hanging around 145-150 the whole time. Is this OK? It seems too cold to me. In the morning I plan on hooking up a physical gauge to see how accurate that reading was, but as I recall it was pretty much right on. I am using the GM gauges that are recommended for MegaSqurt. The sensors are mounted in the thermostat housing, below the thermostat itself I think. Ambient air temp is around 58-60 degrees.

If you keep the old tranny you will not need to do anything to the speedo cable. However, you should really change the tranny for two big reasons: 1. If you are going through all this trouble to change the engine over you should probably get rid of the old 4-speed tranny while youre already in there. 2. I can tell you from presonal experiance that it is WAY easier to just lift the engine out with the tranny attatched rather than trying detach/mate the block to the tranny in the engine bay.

If you change the tranny then you will have to change the speedo cable. The tach should remain untouched. Your three-guage cluster should probably be switched out with the better water and oil temp/pressure gauges and you should probably replace the boost gauge with an aftermarket one that will be a bit more acutate if you are planning on upping the boost, if not the stock turbo gauge will be fine. (This is why I sugesst getting a whole donor car, so you get all these little parts you need). All of it shouldnt take you more than a few hours, its all pretty strait forward stuff.

Honestly I think that doing a full swap will actually be cheaper in the long run. I got my donor 280zxt for about 700. And like the other guys said, you will have everything you need that way. you can always pull the l24 out and store it if you want to keep the matching numbers to sell it later. For that matter, the people that value a car with matching numbers probably wouldn't appreciate you bastardizing the stock engine like you are planing on doing. As far as the question about the exhaust manifold, that all has to do with which head you wind up putting on there. Some have round exhaust ports, some have square.

So I brought my Z into the shop to get a wheel bearing replaced, and it looks like they broke off the threaded end of the stub axle while trying to remove the nut. Neither the shop nor I can find a replacement part, so what I think I will have to do is just head to the junk yard and grab a whole new hub assembly. I know that the stub axle itself is different between the 240z and the 280z, but if I grab the whole hub assembly will that matter? I will have the right companion flange and whatnot, so I assume it should just bolt right in. Or am I thinking this will be too simple? Thanks, Warren

if you take the axel out yourself you might as well just replace the ujoint on your own. from what i understand there isnt a whole lot to it, just a few bolts. I think Im paying like 35-40 dollars each joint

it is going to run me about 500. not too bad i guess. It would be alot cheaper to do it myself, but i really need it done quickly

turns out i had 6 bad ujoints and a bad wheel bearing :S

Hey JessZ, glad to hear that you got your car up and running. Yeah, an open exhaust is a really bad idea in this area, my friend is running a 94mm exhaust with a strait through muffler on his car and gets pulled over about once or twice a month (although he is not driving a Z).

LOL, yea, messsy... I already droped the car with both front wheels off :S Im going to take it to a local shop that I know tomorrow. The owner said she can put it on the rack and run the car to pinpoint the problem. I will post the results when I find out what she says.

Thanks to everyone who is chipping in. I took the car out on the highway this evening for the first time in 6 months (The car was parked during a motor swap/megasquirt install). When I got up to highway speeds there is a really terrible vibration/rattling coming from the rear end. It is so bad it sounds like the car is going to shake apart. Does this give anyone any further insite to my problem?

Thanks for the tip. I will check out the diff tomorrow. I usually jack the car up by the diff though, so I will have to find another way to get under there I suppose

Nope, the only time I hear the noise is an initial clunk when I hit the gas and a rattle when I try to maintain my speed. Under heavy accel and no accel there is no noise. Also there is no noise regardless of what I do in neutral.

So, when I step on the gas I hear a loud clunk coming from the rear. Also while I am cruising at low RPM I get a loud rattle from the same area. I did a search and came up with 3 things that could be wrong, mustache bar bushings, U-Joints, or diff mount. What can I look for and what type of tests can I do to get a better idea of whats broken? Thanks, Warren