zane9000

Is this what you mean about using the 6 8mm bolts on the ZX pulley?

I actually used the L28ET motor with the s/c. I decided that I wanted somthing that would make more boost than the stock turbo and that seemed like a good way to do it. Peak pressure output is supposed to be about 1.2Bar

Yea, I am going to try and fit up some sort of heat sheild. As far as the beefyness of the bracket goes, that metal surprisingly strong (and expensive!) But yea, like I said, this is just a prototype so I can get the car running and have a templet to work off of. After the MSA show is over I plan to get a finished bracket made.

LOL, I forgot to give the link to the pictures... its been a looong day! http://www.blucowtech.hopto.org/MyDocs/Media/My%20Pictures/carprojects/supercharger/Mounted/

So I finished my mount yesterday. Its not pretty, but it is really strong and it make my giant S/C fit in the engine bay, so Im happy. Plus now I have a working proto type that I can get something nicer made from. Anyway, It is not plumbed yet and I dont have the pulley bolted to the crank yet, but this will giver you an idea about what I have been doing with my past few days (not that any of you even know who I am lol) -Warren ^thats who I am!

I had a steel trigger wheel made for my car. It was about $40 or so. Very easy to drill. I used a 3 track 280zxt crank pully, but I unbolted the 6 bolts holding on the 3rd track and bolted the trigger wheel in its place. I havent started the car up yet, but that will be sometime next week. Ill let you guys know how it works out Pics are here: http://www.blucowtech.hopto.org/MyDocs/Media/My%20Pictures/carprojects/EDIS/

I was looking at the thread where everyone posts their MSQ files, but it seems everyone has MSnS or MSnS-E. Those are all MS-I right? I have MS-II, can I still use these MSQ files? OR would there be anyway I could adapt them to MS-II. Thanks, Warren

HOORAY! Not broken! Im just a moron. I forgot to remove the bootloader jumper from the daughter card *D'Oh* From what I can tell, everything works fine... now, just to make it go....

thanks for the ideas. I just kind of got frusturated and threw my hands in the air. lol. I will check those things tomorrow.

So I found the short that was causing my fuses to pop. Aparently I didnt do a good enough job insulating the tansistors from the heatsink (err atleast the two that the assembly guide said to insulate). There was no continuity between the heatsink and transistor when I put it together, but there was when I started trouble shooting... So I dont know. ALSO, I found a solder bridge on one of the transistors near the LED's (I think Q6, Q7, or Q8 but I dont remember exactly which one). Anyway, onto my new problem: I pulled the heatsink off to emiminate the possibility of another short there, I cleared the solder bridge, and hooked it all back up. I double checked all the wireing, replaced popped fuses, and fired her up. When I turned the ignition key the fuel pump relay doesnt start. That realy is grounded through pin 37 on the MS connector. Then I ground the Fuel pup relay, it starts just fine, so I know the relay itself isnt bad. I plugged the MS into my car's computer, fired up hyperterminal, no go. Tried MegaTune, it said it was not connected. Fiddled with com settings and what not for about 15 minutes, nothing. I know the MS board is getting power for 2 resons. 1, when I turn the key all the LED's flash really quick, 2 some of the transistors that are supposed to be heatsinked start getting hot. Can anyone tell me whick componetnts I might have fried? Or is this a lost cause? I am running MS2 on a v3 mainboard.

it looks like the switched power to the main board (pin 37) is drawing WAY too much current... I may have a solder bridge or somthing i guess... I will troubleshoot it tomorrow or the next day....

So I tried to power up my MS today so I could load the code and start tuning. Turned the ignition key and the relays clicked. Joy. Started up my computer and went to test it with hyberterminal. No connection... Trouble shoot for 10 minutes in computer... Trouble shoot the MS wiring for another 10 minutes... Then check the fuses. A fuse was blow. wooters for hooters.. Put in another fuse, turned the key, pop.... I see a day of rewiring ahead of me soon..

ummm it looks like the left one is about an inch off center.... Just kidding man, you know I love them!

What year and what is the rust situation?

I am actually very interested in this. I have a mild cam from my E88 head that I wanted to put on my P90a but didnt think I would be able to because it was oiled differently. Is it an easy mod to do? I still have the old E88 head, could I just use the spray bar and whatnot from there? I have only looked under the valve cover once, then I got scared and put it back on So I dont really know much about how the head works, but I think Im ready to learn.

FYI: If you are just taking the trottle cable to the firewall and not all the way through to the gas pedal the cruise control cable from an 83 280zxt fit just about perfectly.

805 is a southern california area code

OK, update time. The stock 73 straps/bolts are about 1.5-2" too short. I am going to go pick up two cable tensioners from the hardware store and use those to tighten the straps to the mounts. Also, the stock fuel send/return lines are each about a size smaller than the 75 lines. To fix this I will be getting some flexible lines of the right size and run it all the way to the front of the car, completely bypassing the hard lines.

Yeah, thats what I had suspected. I am going to pick up some longer J-bolts from work today and try to put the tank on tonight, we'll see what happens. As far as the vent lines go, the old ones all went into a collector in the quarter panel then a line runs to the engine bay which was blocked off. My plan is to run one line from the vent in the filler kneck to the larger vent in the tank and then run the smaller vent in the tank up to the engine bay. Then I will run that into the intake manifold so when I am building up boost it will pressurise the tank and help push the gas out.

I dont have the '75 straps. I was a bit worried about that round area on the top too. Ill let you guys know how it all turns out when I put it on.

Alright, so I dropped my tank today. The fuel level sender is a direct swap. The tank looks exactly the same size. The only difference is the location of vents and fuel lines. I took a bunch of pics of all the differences, here is a link to the folder containing the pics: http://blucowtech.hopto.org/MyDocs/Media/My%20Pictures/carparts/gas%20tank/

LOL, I love those commercials.

LOL, Thats ok. I assumed you were confused. I didnt see why they would put vent lines at the BOTTOM of the tank

Its pretty nice, but I love my L series engine too much to swap for anything else.

Its an RX-4