SpeedRacer

The "Jags That Run" (JTR) Z car V8 conversion manual has a blueprint for a simple "L" shaped hood latch bracket that you can bolt on. This is in the manual because the distributor on a Chevy V8 conversion interferes with the stock bracket so you have to fabricate up a new one. It is very simple and uses the standard Z car latch (which you may have to locate). I just looked but can't find my JTR Manual right now (it's been 17 years since I did my conversion) but I am sure somebody here has one. Maybe someone here could scan and post the blueprint for you.

Hmmm.... 240Z - 327 CID Chevy Small Block (SB) - 4 speed ... First I would check to make sure it's not a rare Scarab 240Z. http://datsunforum.com/the-scarab-legend-the-original-hybrid-datsun-z/ If it is then you might want to consider not changing it. If it is not a Scarab, was the motor installed using the preferred Jags That Run (JTR) method? http://www.jagsthatrun.com/Pages/Datsun_Z_V-8.html Also, check the engine number to find out what 327 you have. BTW, GM made 350 HP, 365 HP and 375 HP 327 motors. http://www.gearheadgeek.com/ghgj/index.php/49-54-data/general-chevy-data/chevy-block-casting-s A Chevy 327 motor is very reliable and there are many parts available so you could get up to 400HP without going to crazy. IMHO I think you should consider getting the motor rebuilt with a decent cam, aluminum heads and intake/carb setup. If you don't want to, or for some reason can't rebuild the 327, another possible option is to buy a crate engine from GM, Jeg's or Summit. FYI, I have an old Vette 327 in my car and love it! The whole thing only weighs about 2,500 lbs. and has close to 50 - 50 weight distribution. It's plenty quick!

Thank you very much for the info Chelle and I am sorry if you thought I slighted your awesome GTO. I didn't mean too but I thought you had sold it AND I forgot just how awesome it came out after you made all those changes and lengthened the nose. Still not sure if I am up to making my own aluminum trim rings so I might just take Peter up on his offer. BTW, yours look really good!

Thanks for the offer Peter and I may just take you up on it. I would have to ship the headlight covers to you ahead of time since the holes to hold them on are already drilled. We have time so I will let you know.

Hey Chelle, glad your are still around but I thought you sold your GTO replica quite awhile ago???? Anyway, I found some plastic chrome trim to replace the old trim on my headlight covers. It's just OK, and will do for now, but I still want a metal trim ring. So thanks, I guess I will attempt to make a set.

Wow, the car looks awesome Peter. I'd say it was definitely one of the best, if not THE BEST, Z car – GTO conversions in existence. Glad you got it done and you should be quite proud because you tried a lot of different things and it shows! Yup, I would say it came out looking great! Hmmmm.... you drove my GTO replica – can I drive yours?

Hey TomoHawk - Maybe you could use real Ferrari 250 GTO door pulls: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Ferrari-250-GTO-Door-Handle-Set-New-/201470611529?hash=item2ee8959049:g:fEgAAOSwnGJWT5d3&vxp=mtr Just kidding! So how is the project coming along? Got any recent pictures? Speed

Hi again Mark, Thanks for the quick reply. Tried John Washington already and he doesn't have them. My current ones are actually Cowles ProtektoTrim flexible stick on chrome wheel opening molding which worked well for over ten years but now the chrome is separating and bubbling. Unfortunately Cowels no long makes the molding I need and I would really like to replace them with real metal ones.

Hey Mark, My headlight covers are still in great shape but I sure could use a set of trim rings. Do you know where I could get a set like the ones in your pitures? Thanks in advance for your help. Speed

Problem is that, except for the front fenders & hood, the body panels a glued to the body so you can not just take them off and install them on another car.

Thanks again Chris. For some reason I thought Bobby Alloway's shop was in Memphis. I gave some serious thought to building his SpeedStar 33 Ford at one time. I'll at least give him a call.

Thanks for the quick response Chris. I'm thinking that 20 - 40 hrs adds up to be quite a bit of cost plus I would have to trailer the car over to you. That friend I mentioned that is building a GTO kit says he might have somebody local to him that may make us both a set so I'm going to hold off for now. Thanks again for getting back to me. Speed

Hey Chris, Would you be interested in making a set of stainless trim rings for a Ferrari 250 GTO replica? I need a set and so does a friend of mine who is almost finished building his kit. I could send you my covers to use as a template. Please let me know. Thanks.

BTW you should check out the FAQs "Body Kits & Paint" section on this forum because there is a long 250 GTO Owners thread there. Also here is some additional info from a reprinted Kit Car mag article. http://www.zparts.com/history/articles/kit_history/articles/3calGTOs2.html John Washington has some history and a 250 GTO Replica Registry here http://www.reactionresearch.com/gtorr/ReplicaHistory.html You will note that the mold ended up in the UK at OM Sportscars who had a web site and sold the kits but disappeared a while ago. The Alpha 1 GTO kit had a big problem with aligning the hood to the front panel as the thin area between the air scoops and the hood opening tended to warp. The Alpha kit also used custom made (and very poorly designed) hood hinges. When Tom McBurnie got the molds from Joe Alphabet he made a new front end set of molds that moved to hood back and adapted 80's Corvette hinges mounted on the radiator support to solve the problem. As a side note John Washington solved the problem by making the nose a one piece tilt unit for his Velo Rossa GTO kit. So, an Alpha based kit uses the Datsun cowl panel in front of the windshield and has the hood moved forward so the strip of fiberglass between the hood and the front panel is only a couple of inches wide. The McBurnie front end moves the hood way back and there is a small strip of fiberglass that ties the rear of the front fenders together and runs in front of the windshield replacing the factory cowl panel. The real GTO's were all hand made so every one them is different. Most of them had a very oval shaped grille opening but one had a more squared opening which is what ended up on the Alpha kit. The other change that McBurnie did when he made a new set of front end molds is he changed the grille opening to the more common oval shape. So, the car you just bought has the more squared off grille opening but the rest looks very much like the McBurnie kit. I am not sure of all that went on in the UK with the kit back then but I think you may have a locally modified McBurnie version of the kit. It is a real shame that the car was left outside so I hope you can restore it and bring it back to life! Good luck and if I can help please let me know. Oh yeah, Peter - AKA Boy from OZ, is documenting his Puckett GTO build so you might ask to be on his distribution list. http://forums.hybridz.org/user/1266-boy-from-oz/