SpeedRacer

I posted this before but I think it will help if I post it again. You do not need to use the escutcheons or the rubber gaskets. I picked up some rubber "O" rings at the hardware store and used them behind the lock assembly. I use a Dremel to carefully round out the opening in the fiberglass door panel to accept the lock and "O" ring. I also used a small round file to remove the locator on the lock assembly right up next to the boss so the "O" ring will sit flush with the barrel and boss of the lock. I think that, by using the "O" ring, you will find that it is more complaint and makes it easier to deal with small differences. One last note: I found it very difficult to install the lock retaining clips on the inside of the door. So, I made clips out of piano wire that I got from the hobby shop. This allowed me to simply slide the custom made retaining clips along the barrel of the lock until it fell into the grooves. I hope this helps.

Yup, sure looks like part of an Alpha 1 GTO kit to me. http://www.eaglegt.com/index.php?section=eaglegto The Velo Rossa kit has a tilt front end and is a spyder (convertible) version. http://www.reactionresearch.com/automotive.html I am afraid that you are missing lots of pieces. I can think of the following that normally came with the kit: Hood and hinges Front fender access panels Door skins Rocker panels Front fender inner panels Rear fender inner panels Inner rear window panels BTW, Tom McBurnie at Thunder Ranch still sells the kit. http://www.thunderranch.com/gto.html Also, you might want to check out (and post this) in the "Body Kits & Paint" section under "250 GTO Owners" thread. This is a difficult kit to install so you should give it a lot of thought before you start. Here is a picture of my Alpha 1 GTO.

When we built our retirement home I wanted to have enough room for projects so my garage is 25' wide by 40' deep. The front half has a 10' ceiling and the back half has a 14' ceiling so I have plenty of room for a lift. I think I am going to go with Grumpyvettes recommendation and buy a two post lift.

Ooooops...looks like eBay shot down the original listing but its back (without "Ferrari" in the title). http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Custom-HotRod-1962-250-GTO-Replica-Scorpion-GTZ_W0QQitemZ140294566005QQihZ004QQcategoryZ7251QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

Good looking '73 240 Z car based Ferrari 250 GTO w/streched chassis, SBC and trunk kit on eBay. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&_trksid=p3907.m32&_trkparms=tab%3DWatching&item=140293903735&viewitem= Its from Scorpion Z Cars in Everett, WA so maybe Tom Edwards is still in the business.

My guess would be that you probably used the stiff door weatherstrip from Precision Parts Corp. This is a known problem with their gaskets but the factory ones work well. So people have come up with off the shelf alternatives so please do a search as this subject has been covered before.

Here is mine. http://www.cardomain.com/ride/236622

I can't believe you would sell that awesome GTO of yours Chelle but you might be surprised what you can get for it. This one is out on eBay and, it’s a spider plus it's not even a very good example. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&_trksid=p3907.m32&_trkparms=tab%3DWatching&item=190274573298&viewitem= BTW, I don't know if he still has it but the owner of Factory Five Racing had a complete aluminum GTO body made from the original Ferrari wooden bucks. Modify an old 330GTE chassis and you would have the next best thing to a real one. Of course you would have to have some big bucks to pull it off. If you decide to sell your old trunk kit please let me know as I think I am going to add one to mine.

I am pretty sure that 1 Fast Z has one and I know that Chelle converted hers to RHD. There was a thread asking about converting from LHD to RHD. http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=139387

Where is Chelle when you need her? She did a great job of converting her awesome Z based Ferrari 250 GTO replica to BMW V12 power (and RHD)!!! Check it out.

Thanks SSflyer! I removed all the unnecessary stuff: brackets, hold down tabs, plumbing and any other items that weren't needed in the engine compartment. Then I filled in all the holes and spot welds before painting. Since I rewired the car I ran the wiring through black plastic looms that are sitting on top of the frame rails. Here is what it looks like today.

I happen to have a 327 in my car but only because I had a 1965 327 Corvette motor sitting in my garage that was left over from a Corvette project. It's a blueprinted 365 HP 327 SBC that has 64cc Trick Flow 23 degree aluminum heads, 1.5:1 aluminum roller rockers, new (but stock) 365HP solid lifter cam, .030 over 10.5:1 forged pistons and ceramic coated Hooker "Block Hugger" headers. It breaths through a Tri-power setup that has 3 Rochester 2 bbl. carburetors sitting on a vintage single plane Corvette Offenhauser manifold and out through a dual exhaust that uses two 31†stainless steel glass packs with “Ansa†dual tipped outlets in the back. To save weight there is a Summit gear drive starter and aluminum water pump plus a Chevy 16lb. nodular iron flywheel with a Hayes competition clutch. I have never had it on the dyno but it is probably in the 400 HP range. More of a wind up motor than the usual torque motor but the Z is so light at ~2,500 pounds and, mated to a Camaro WC T-5, it makes for a decent performer. If the old Vette motor wasn't hanging around I probably would have opted for a 350/377/383 GM crate motor. http://paceperformance.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWCATS&Category=132

DavyZ - I did for one http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=137949&highlight=distributor "Funny, I use this http://www.msdignition.com/product.aspx?id=5709 distributor because of my Tri-Power intake and MSD says it is "CNC machined billet aluminum housing is 3/8†smaller in diameter and 7/8†shorter than conventional Chevy V-8 distributors with the “points†type cap" but they never state the actual size." "I just went out in the garage and measured my MSD 8570 and its about 6 1/4" high off the manifold and the cap is about 3 1/4" in diameter. Sorry, its hard to get it exact." BTW the 6 1/4" high is to the top of the center boot and the cap is about 1 1/2" out from the firewall. I can't move the engine any farther back because the 90 degree elbows that go through the firewall for the heater hoses will hit the valve cover. As you can see I don't have a hood latch but it looks like the distributor would easily fit under one because it's 4 1/4" from the bottom of the hood opening sheetmetal (the lip with the weatherstrip on it) to the top of the dizzy. Hmmmm... I think I need to clean my rear carb and dust off the dizzy.

So MoNkEyT88, what do you have now?

http://www.thunderranch.com/gto.html Coupe http://www.reactionresearch.com/vr.html Spyder

http://www.msdignition.com/product.aspx?id=5709

The cars were designed to be both RHD & LHD so the pieces are available. I would ask Chelle as she converted her car from LHD to RHD.

1971 Datsun 240Z based 1962 Ferrari 250 GTO Replica Dick Goodman Loudon, TN

One of the best in the world is about 20 miles from my house - ZBarn in Maryville TN. http://www.zbarn.com/ Roger at ZBarn specializes in Z cars and usually has around 400 to 500 Z cars in the yard. He also bought the old ZAP inventory so he even has a limited supply of new parts. He will ship what you need and I have found him to be a great guy to deal with.