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Nigel

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Posts posted by Nigel

  1. Well, you may not get fittings that allow you to connect your pump directly to the existing lines. But it's not that hard to come up with a few adapters to make it work. BTW, I'm pretty sure it's 5/16" output on the pump, not 1/4".

     

    Nigel

  2. I did a quick search and couldn’t find anything and I need an answer fast. Can somebody tell me the size and thread pitch of the turbo to manifold mounting nuts. I’m pretty sure it’s M10, but I can’t remember if the pitch is 1.25 or 1.5.

     

    Thanks!

     

    Nigel

    '73 240ZT

  3. Now I just need the other strap.......hold on to it for me Nigel!

     

    Yeah, well, I haven't had any luck selling it yet, so it's not going anywhere.

     

    What's the ETA for the new straps? I'll be traveling back and forth to Windsor possibly for the next few weeks, and I could stop by to pick up a set and drop off the 280Z strap...

     

    Nigel

  4. The closest thing I can think of are Rota RBs, but I forget their offset measurements. I've also heard plenty of bad things about Rotas though, so I'm not touching those with a 10ft pole.

     

    So what are you basing this on? Do you have any proof or is it just hearsay? How do you know they're any worse than any other wheel?

     

    Nigel

    '73 240ZT

  5. hi there,this is my first correspondece on this web site.

    i dont know if you know this, but the use of stainless steel in contact with normal ferrous steel (as used in car body work,fuel tanks etc) will very quickly cause localised severe corrosion in the ferrous steel due to the dissimilar metals reacting with each other.the only way round this is to insulate the stainless steel from the ferrous by the use of plastic or other type of electrical insulation material. this situation only happens in the presence of moisture,which you WILL get underneath cars.sorry to put a damper on your idea,but you will soon have a holed fuel tank if you go ahead...

     

    Wouldn't that only be an issue if it's bare metal? The tanks are at the very least painted, and ideally, a rubber isolator will separate the straps from the tank. Jerry has already indicated that he's using bicycle tire innertubes for this purpose...

     

    Nigel

  6. Mine arrived yesterday! $750US shipped to Canada was too good of an offer to pass up. And the duty and taxes were thankfully very cheap. Unfortunately, I'm not going to get to see the rims in person for a while. I had them shipped to my Father's place 240 miles away, because that's where I store my Z for the winter. I was going to go down this coming weekend, but I dislocated my knee cap yesterday! So, there's no point in my going anywhere until I'm healed up.

     

    Thanks to all those who made this fantastic deal possible! I really appreciate it.

     

    Nigel

    '73 240ZT

  7. The best thing to do is just to make sure that all of the OEM components are in good operating condition. Everything in my 240 is original and the heat from the vents can be so hot that it's uncomfortable to leave your hands in front of them, and I rarely need to turn the fan speed up above 2.

     

    Nigel

    '73 240ZT

  8. What is the wheel and tire profile on your friends white Z? I've seen it before (the real images) and I love the profile he is using. How much of a drop does it have?

     

    I'm guessing the rotas that he actually has are the 9in front and 9.5in rear.

     

    Looks awesome.:mrgreen:

     

    You can ask EMWHYR0HEN (Myron) himself, or go to Page 34 and 35 of this thread :-)

     

    http://forums.hybridz.org/showpost.php?p=905563&postcount=677

     

    http://forums.hybridz.org/showpost.php?p=905394&postcount=667

     

    http://forums.hybridz.org/showpost.php?p=905688&postcount=683

     

    Nigel

  9. I've browsed through all 62 pages, and I didn't see any pictures of white Z's with flat black RB or RB-R's. I've only seen pictures of Rudy's silver Z. Anybody have any pictures of a white Z? Or even a white Z with some other brand of rim in flat black with the ZG flares. I'm having a hard time trying to decide between the flat black and the Royal Gun Metal. I've seen EMWHYROHEN's pictures of his Z with the RGM and they look amazing. But I suspect the flat black might work for me too...

     

    Thanks!!!

     

    Nigel

    '73 240ZT

     

    With Myron's permission, I'm posting two pictures of his Z that I had a friend edit to look like it has the flat black RB's. I like it!

     

    phpdHrtw5PM_revJPG_Thumbnail1.jpg

     

    phpTzF69wPM_revJPG_Thumbnail1.jpg

  10. I've browsed through all 62 pages, and I didn't see any pictures of white Z's with flat black RB or RB-R's. I've only seen pictures of Rudy's silver Z. Anybody have any pictures of a white Z? Or even a white Z with some other brand of rim in flat black with the ZG flares. I'm having a hard time trying to decide between the flat black and the Royal Gun Metal. I've seen EMWHYROHEN's pictures of his Z with the RGM and they look amazing. But I suspect the flat black might work for me too...

     

    Thanks!!!

     

    Nigel

    '73 240ZT

  11. I would have to see some clear evidence of how this internal wastegate is "far superior" to others, because I don't see at all how this Ultimate IW would be superior to the one I posted on ebay. The one I posted is for a different turbo/exhaust housing, and I would be curious to see how they compare. It would be really interesting to see if they even have the same bolt pattern, I have no idea what that 5-bolt pattern is on the Garrett turbo outlets... Looking more closely, it does look like it is the same. If so, I apologize for my first reply where I shot down your term usage of "non-OEM Garrett bolt pattern". If that is the same as the Ford pattern, that may be the Standard Garrett 5-bolt pattern.

    The one you posted appears to be a cast piece, while the one I posted appears to be welded.

     

    The ATP ultimate wastegate was originally a welded piece. Then they switched to cast for ease of manufacturing I guess. I suspect that the ebay one may very well be an early ATP unit that the seller bought but never used...

     

    Nigel

    '73 240ZT

  12. Mine had a chain too, but whenever I went to a "We Serve" gas station, the attendant wouldn't know the chain was there, and the cap would get pulled out of his hands and it would bang against the fender, chipping the paint. I did that myself several times, so I took the chain off.

     

    If you still have the original rubber flap that would hang over the fender when you open the gas cap door, then that should protect the paint at least...

     

    Nigel

    '73 240ZT

  13. Mount your intercooler with quick release fasteners on the mounting itself and the pumbing. Buy ten identical intercoolers. Before your drag racing day, submerge the each in water making sure you don't get any water inside the unit. Freeze them into a solid block of ice.

     

    At the track, swap to a new frozen block of ice cooler before each run. You'll probably need a diaper under the cooler to keep from dripping on the track.

     

    That would probably be easier and less expensive then making the refirdgeration unit you're describing above :-)

     

    If you used wax instead of frozen water, you could avoid having to swap intercoolers. I posted about this a while back, but I don't know if anybody paid attention to it at the time...

     

    http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=84602

     

    BTW: the article I referenced in the linked thread does appear to be available in full right now

     

     

    Nigel

  14. I would go even futher and say "don't use urethane bushings on the T/C assembly". This is a critical component and any time you restrict the movement of the entire suspension through this bushing, you're looking for trouble on the rod regardless if you've retreaded it or not. I see you don't have many posts, so in case you've not read them, there are a few strings about this very same situation happening to others.

     

    I thought this was primarily an issue with poly bushings the ZX's. I've only heard of a very few failures with Z's. My recollection from other discussions of this issue was that the failure was due to the ZX rods being under tension, whereas the Z rods are under compression...

     

    Nigel

    '73 240ZT

  15. See if you can get your blowoff to work to lift and relieve pressure under partial throttle, or even lift-throttle. That blowoff should LIFT and sound like a "sigh" at the slightest lift of the throttle. I know it's not in vogue to not have a hard-PSHHHHT!!!!-sounding blowoff, but that is what it should be doing. Partial throttle 'driving around' will cause a minimum-flow surge for sure...and that is really what your bypass (blowoff) valve is there to prevent.

     

    This is something that I suggested in the other thread (post #26)...

     

    http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=129000&page=2

     

    It didn't cure the the problem for me because I have an extreme case, but it certainly helped. The only downside is that with the Greedy Type RS BOV that I have, it makes this gawd awful squealing noise every time the valve cracks open, and with the single spring, this occurs between -13 and -15 inHg, which is right in the cruising range. So as I'm driving along, I keep hearing this high pitched EEEEEEEEEEE!!!! sound. I don't know which is worse, the chirping from the turbo surging or the squealing from the BOV!

     

    Nigel

    '73 240ZT

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