Nigel
-
Posts
787 -
Joined
-
Last visited
-
Days Won
2
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Blogs
Events
Gallery
Downloads
Store
Posts posted by Nigel
-
-
-
There should be snap rings on both ends of that bearing race to locate it on the shaft. It's not meant to slide on the shaft in either direction.
NOTE: I just noticed that this is for a Q45. I don't know if that makes a difference...
Nigel
'73 240ZT
-
It is sticking out some but not much. I shift quick but not with alot of force. I use atleast twice the force when going through the gears on the on the R154 Toy trans but they use a large bolt. If it is the roll pin breaking that causes the fork to break it's an easy fix. If it's the fork breaking first then the pin, it's not so easy.
I just talked to a friend that was a Nissan tech for years. He said he's seen a few aluminum ones break along with the roll pins. He said they changed the design of the roll pin too. He had a box of trans parts he's also going to look for. Until now I have run the early boxes with the steel forks and never broke anything. If I can get a steel fork in there I think my problems will be solved.
You can run the steel forks from the 4 speed. That's what I had in my old '82 ZX 5 speed. All you have to do is drill out the roll pin hole for the larger diameter pin used in the aluminum forks. I also used the steel front cover from the 4 speed as well. I've heard of the aluminum ones breaking (although, that's probably due to something binding in the clutch mechanism).
Nigel
-
I was able to extend the plunger on our dial gauge at work, and get it down the #1 spark plug hole. As best I could measure, it looks like the pulley mark is only off by 3 degrees, or a bit more. That could be the manufacturing tolerance. I've bumped up my base timing by 5 deg across the board, so I'll leave it at that for now. I need to get a timing light on it to see if I set the SDS timing right to begin with. It was 7 years ago that I first did it, and I've never double checked it since. I just need to find the time to visit a buddy with a timing light...
Nigel
-
The 240SX transmission also uses double roll pins...
Nigel
'73 240ZT
-
I'm not trying to be mean here, but you really should take the time to understand what these parts do before you start messing with them, especially when it comes to brakes. First of all, those two parts you gutted are not both proportioning valves. Only the one on the firewall is. The one on the shock tower is a brake pressure warning switch that warns you if there is a pressure loss to the front or rear brakes. So, by gutting it, you've just disabled that safety feature.
Secondly, by gutting both, you've effectively tied the front and rear brakes lines together at two points (nether should be), bypassing another safety feature. The front and rear lines are kept separate so that a failure at one end will still allow you to have brakes at the other.
You need to reassemble the warning switch and as for the proportioning valve (on the firewall), it should be removed and the gap in the lines should be spliced together. The proportioning valve uses pressure to the front right caliper to regulate pressure to the rear brakes lines, so that's how you tied the lines together there.
This may not necessarily explain your spongy pedal, but you should definitely address these mistakes first.
Nigel
'73 240ZT
-
can anyone here, help me! i want to buy those kind of flarings for my 240z... how i wish i can have it
please help me. thanks
I don't believe anybody on this site sells the actual flares (with the exception of the group buy for the extra wide version). You need to talk with a company like Motorsport Auto (see link below). Or, if you search on line, you should be able to find some other vendors.
http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/CTGY/7BSA02
Nigel
'73 240ZT
-
honda civic jokes???
You've never seen a base model Civic with a wing on it that's so big it wouldn't look out of place on an actual airplane?
Nigel
'73 240ZT
-
I think I got it backwards, I think mine is a CS then, the case is one that would have been used on a 2.0L OHC Sunbird.
That looks like a CS130, which was a replacement for the 12si. It was used in the early '90s, and then was upgraded to the CS130D.
Not as powerful as the CS144, but definitely a step up from the 12SI...
Nigel
-
Compression ratio is a function of cylinder volume, not cylinder pressure. Pressure is affected by cam timing and the temperature of the gas, which goes up as it's compressed. Pressure at TDC is typically 15 to 20 times that at BDC.
Nigel
'73 240ZT
-
Nigel, the bracket is slightly angled at this time and a few washers/spacers would be good to keep it in alignment.
Rememember, though, that the bottom of the alternator is securely fastened to the lower alternator mount which has been modified for the CS/Si series alternators. It is the lower alternator mount that dictates the alignment, not the upper. The upper mount is for belt tensioning more than anything.
True enough... I just don't like the idea of forcing something to bend to accommodate a misalignment, like the upper bracket is being made to do in this situation.
Still a great idea though, and as we agree, a few washers will solve any alignment issues...
Nigel
-
Yikes!
It looks like it cracked and then was welded, only to crack again. And it looks like the weld was ground or filed down, not turned on a lathe. No way on earth would I put that on my engine! No sense risking crank damage...
BTW, it's either dampENer or damper. A case can be made for either, but dampNer is a spelling mistake as best as I can tell.
Nigel
'73 240ZT
-
.....as in $1.51 cheap.
I needed to extend my upper alternator bracket after I did the CS144 alternator swap. My belt was just a bit too long and constantly slipping, even after I wallowed out the stock bracket.
I hit Home Depot looking for a turn buckle and found exactly what I wanted. It is a 3/8"x9-5/8" eye/eye plated turn buckle. Grab a 3/8"-16 nut for a jam nut and you are set.
Installation took 3 minutes and now I can adjust my alternator with ease. I plan on painting the piece to match the engine bay, but so far it is working like a charm and looks good too.
Question...
This is a great, cost effective solution, but are you sure the two mounting points are on the same plane? When I put a straight edge from the timing cover, it looked like the upper alternator mounting tab on my 12si was ~1/4" forward. It could be that the CS144 alternator is different, but did you check this first? I'd want to make sure before tightening everything down, otherwise you could end up with broken mounts at some point in the future, or rapid belt wear. If it is out of alignment, it's easy enough to fix with a spacer (for example, a few washers).
Nigel
'73 240ZT
-
Well, I just tried moving the pulley by hand, and it won't budge. However, I can only get at it with one hand, due to the electric rad fan and intercooler plumbing, and I can't get much of a grip on it. So, I'll have to label this test as inconclusive.
I think the only way I'll be able to tell for sure is to set the engine at TDC...
Nigel
'73 240ZT
-
Thanks Tony! I'll give that a try. I ordered some replacement magnets from SDS last night just to be safe. I know where I can get a new Euro pulley locally, but cash is pretty tight right now, so I may end up just getting another used North American one. Fortunately, I kept my magnet template from when I first did the install...
Nigel
'73 240ZT
-
Check your timing. You should know what it was before, if not it should match what the SDS prgrammer says. If it doesn't, it moved. I have had them move before, Both times itwas more than just a slip. You should be getting better than 21-24 though. I got around 27 on my last highway trip running 75+ on a decent tune. What's your cruise timing at?
Well, I thought about checking the timing, but I don't think that will tell me anything. The timing mark and the trigger magnets are on the same pulley, so the timing will probably look correct. Unfortunately, my timing light is at my father's place 250 miles away, so I can't verify that.
The only way that I can think of to know for sure if the pulley has slipped is to set the engine at TDC and see if the timing mark on the pulley matches the 0 deg mark on the timing indicator. But there's no really simple way I could find to do that. I was going to see if I could get a rough idea of where TDC is by putting a rod through the #1 spark plug hole and trying to find the point where it sticks out the most. I realize there are a few deg of crank rotation where the rod won't move, but if the 0 deg mark is significantly off that should tell me what I need to know.
As for my timing curve, I was starting with 20 deg at idle, and ramping up to 38 deg by 2750 rpm. AFR's crusing at 75mph are low 15's. I do remember my mileage being much better than even the 24 mpg I got last year, but I don't have any records prior to last year. The engine feels great otherwise, so I'm not sure why it's so bad now...
Nigel
-
iwould check asap...if your pulley is slipping...that means your crank is gonna be fubarred...as the key is likely torn from the crank, unless you are saying the pulley is seperating. aslo...a good way to check for the correct tension is to press the belt down in the middle betweem to pulleys.....it shouldn't give more than a 1/4"
Sorry, I should have clarified that I'm talking about the rubber damped pulley slipping on the harmonic balancer hub...
Nigel
-
So, I'm aware that a slipping harmonic balancer pulley can be an issue, and I'm pretty sure my pulley has slipped. But I wanted to get some other opinions on the symptoms I'm seeing. I'm running an L28 Turbo in my 240Z with the original L24 pulley that came with the car. I have an SDS EM3-6F system with the trigger magnets mounted in the rubber damped part of the balancer. What I have noticed:
1. Fuel economy seems down. I haven't done better than 21 mpg on the highway this year, but I have a receipts from last year with one indicating a best of 24mpg (mind you, I'm running a 240SX 5 speed this year, with a slightly shorter 5th than the '82 280ZX box it replaced).
2. Full throttle acceleration feels a little flat.
3. Two or three times when starting the engine, I've heard a very brief chirp, kind of like a slipping belt. But the belt appears to be tight (takes some effort to twist it 90 degrees)
4. The idle timing has always been set to 20 deg advance, but I've noticed that idle speed and smoothness significantly improve when I crank the timing up to ~28 deg or more advance.
5. I bumped up all the timing values by 10 deg and acceleration seems crisper, and EGT's cruising on the highway have dropped by at least 50F. Fuel economy hasn't improved though.
I realize that the best way to determine if the pulley has slipped is to set the engine at TDC and check the timing mark, but I'm not sure how quickly I'll be able to get around to doing this (is there a quick and dirty method I can use?), and I don't want to delay getting the necessary components together to replace the balancer. The most telling evidence appears to be that I can run 28 deg or more advance at idle, and the engine actually runs smoother. I cranked it up as high as 40 deg advance at idle and much to my surprise, it didn't seem to make much difference. I would have thought that there would be a point where it starts to run noticeably rough again. Regardless, I've never tried cranking up the idle advance before, so for all I know, this could be normal. In the mean time, I've painted alignment marks on the balancer so I can see if the pulley does indeed slip at some point in the future.
Any insight would be greatly appreciated!
Nigel
'73 240ZT
-
I also want to confirm that using masking tape to hold the weatherstripping in place as you put it on the glass really helps.
And, after you get the weatherstripping on the glass, put the trim in before you install the glass in the car. It is so much easier than trying to do it with the glass installed. Again, just use tape to hold it in place until you're done.
Nigel
'73 240ZT
-
any reason why you shouldn't use it as your fuel filter at the same time? Maybe have a pickup filter for the low pressure pump, your standard glass jobbie...
Do you mean as a pre-filter for the efi pump? I think if you're getting your feed for the high pressure pump from the bottom of the filter housing, the fuel isn't filtered yet.
One question I have, and I know I have seen it mentioned before but I cannot recall the answer: why do so many surge tank setups return the fuel from the rail to the surge tank, rather than to the fuel tank directly? I would imagine returning it from the rail to the surge tank would wind up heating the fuel in the surge tank. Am I just imagining an issue where there is not one? (ie, the heat soaked up by the fuel is in the fuel no matter where it goes) To my thinking, returning it all the way to the tank would give it more time to cool, plus the metal surface of the tank itself would act as a heatsink to cool it from airflow under the carriage...
So am I wrong, or is this just not (usually) such a big deal as I make it out to be, or what?
I don't recall where, but I have definitely read of people having issues with the return fuel heating up the surge tank. I don't see why you couldn't run the return line direct to the tank, and have the overflow line from the surge tank tee into that. If you match the flow rate from the low pressure pump to that of the high pressure pump, then I don't think you should have to worry about the surge tank running dry.
Nigel
'73 240ZT
-
The goldenrod filters with the plastic tanks look like they could fit an internal pump into them. But they have a metal cap which would make the electrical connections more complicated...
Nigel
'73 240ZT
-
Just some info on Knock sensors. The sledge hammer test is erroneous. What the knock sensor is "looking " for is a Noise of a certain frequency.
6400Hz to be exact.
DETONATION will deform/ crack ring lands. Also blow holes in pistons. The 2 frame fronts colliding is very destructive.I just read a great article on this very subject:
To summarize, detonation does crack ring lands, but it's Pre-Ignition that actually blows holes in pistons. Prolonged detonation can lead to, but is not necessary for pre-ignition. Pre-ignition is caused by hot spots that start the combustion process long before the spark plug even fires, which results in the piston trying to compress the expanding, burning (not exploding) mixture. Consequently, it is undetectable by a knock sensor.
Detonation is a spontaneous explosion of the mixture AFTER spark ignition has occurred usually at the point furthest from where ignition was started. It causes a rapid pressure spike (apparently NOT due to the flame fronts colliding) that resonates in the block at 6400Hz and can be detected by a knock sensor. The longer it takes the mixture to burn (the more advance required), the more likely detonation will occur. Consequently, combustion chamber designs that result in the shortest burn time (least advance required), are the least detonation prone. Interestingly, the coveted "HEMI" engine is apparently a poor design, requiring excessive advance making it prone to detonation...
Nigel
'73 240ZT
-
These are my favorites!
http://www.sportsimportsltd.com/reddicaco.html
BTW...
So, there you go... flares with skinny tires. If it knocks your socks off, then go for it!
Nigel
'73 240ZT
-
But then to make them look good you have to get a bit wider tire and then you face the issue of rubbing because your tires will be sticking an inch or two out from the fender.
Exactly... So you either forget about the flares, or accept the fact that if want to do it right, you're going to have to cut the body.
Nigel
'73 240ZT
L6 Turbo Header Group Buy
in Group Buys
Posted
That's a pretty good idea actually. So long as they don't weld the T3 side to the manifold!
Nigel
'73 240ZT