Z-Monster

hi guys, i have had my zx for awhile now and its almost perfect witht the exception of this vibration i managed to get rid of before in the past but now.. its just annoying the F out of me. first the specs of my car... rb25det, wheel spacers all round(new and machined to the tee), 17" rims (straight) with new tires, sylvia rack steering rack customed engine mounts along with long/prop shaft, r200 diff etc. ok so now my problem... i have had a slight vibration to my steering which effects the whole car between to 50 to 75 mph. beyond 75mph i am smooth as silk aside from the road modulations and some tyre vibration at times.... so now my question is to how should i go about this problem... i have not done on wheel balancing, but i'm affraid its a bent long shaft or a shitty engine mount. I have left my car off gear and glided at 60mph just to find out if it was my drivetrain. the vibration was still evident so i used that and concluded that the vibration has nothing to do with the drivetrain but my wheels. pls give me some suggestion to tackle this problem... thanx guys.

hi there, no one makes them where i come from. (malaysia) on top of that, i'm no wiring expert... what i did was have a wire man connect all related wires to make my car run as stock as possible.. i know he seperated all the steering column indicators ie. single, windshield wipers lights etc... and then took off all abs and traction control sensor wirings... spliced all engine realted sensor wiring to make the meter cluster work. alot of the r33 wiring was actually stripped and rendered useless. the 280zx is very basic and most of its steering cluster wiring was maintained... i would advice you to change the meter cluster to the r33 one as well so you wont have any headaches in recalibration. thats what i eventually did anyway. as for the 3 meters you have that are origianl clock, oil press and temp as well as your volt meters... that can still be used but how accurate i dont know... i replace all of mine to aftermarket SARD exhaust temp, oil press and boost. i'm sorry i dont have the detail knowledge to walk you though this noodle meal of yours.. HIHIHI all the best...

hi Rizal, I'm Kevin from malaysia and i have a 280zx with a rb25det... you dont need a R32 gtr rear when a cefiro/s13 rear is the same... no difference and the diff they are suing is the same short nose r200 vlsd. yes it will fit butt there will be portions of the undercarriage that needs to be cut and rewelded. not too big a job but need a skilled and knowledgable mech to do this. most importantly the mounting points have to be solid if not you will be messing a perfectly adequate rear axel that could have taken the power of a supped rb26dett!!!!!!!! kevin kong

Z-Monster... I'm very interested to know more about how you've set up your steering package. Currently the power steering in the 280zx is very soggy and I dislike it. My other car RB25DE R33 Skyline has fantastic steering and I'm hoping to replicate that in the 280zx although I must admit I know next to nothing about the steer system in either vehicle. Also what did you set up for your suspension? Is it for track or road use? An how does it perform. It seems to me that the factory suspension (26 years old!) seems to magnify that bumps but still rolls over on the corners! ok here is what i did. took a complete front crossmember of a cefiro/s13 same including the power steering unit itself. then took my 280zx crossmember and grafted the cefiro's powersteering mounting points onto my 280zx's. that was the end of mounting the rack on. then, the tie rods at both end of the steering rack had to be shortened so i had then cut and rethreaded. thats about it... re plumbed the lines and shrank my oil sump alittle more to clead the new power steering unit that was sitting right on the crossmember. its very good... i have hear of ppl using subaru power steering units so maybe thats the way to go if it bolts on without having to shorten the tie rods... PM me if yall have other questions. i have no free play on my steering.. no oil leaks... nice.

how do you tell if they are clutch type??? what are teh tell tail signs?? most have VLSD stickers on them but some dont and are still lsd's

the diffs cost usd100...

Hey Guys... All The Technical Talk Is Very Debative. Anyways I Just Machines My Driveshaft From S13 Sylvia. Shortened Where The Barings Were. Not A Chop And Weld Thing... Then I Remachined The Gears As Well... Cost A Bomb.. Anyways Then My Companion Shaft Connected To My Wheel Hub No Problems With The 4 Hole Bolt Pattern... I'm Having Trouble With The Names Of These Items Stated As I Dont Practice Proper Part Name Calling Here... Hahahah.. Anyways.. I Then Took The Input Shafts (the Ones That Actually Goes Into The Diff) Chopped Them Up And Machined My Own 8 Bolt Connector. My Cv Joint/drive Shafts Are Actually A Two Piece Assembly. One Small Stubby Piece That Goes Into The Diff And The Actual Shaft That Reaches The Wheel Hub. With The 4 Hole End Connection To The Stock Wheel Hub Part. So There... Look At The Pictures Of My Own Cars Diff. The Shot Of It Under My Car. Ok Now For The Price Of Things... I Have Found Out That My Max Weight Shipment Is Only 20kg.. The Diff Being 46 Kg I Will Have To Split It Open... Plus, To Ship 20kg To The States... Oakland Ca It Will Cost A Whopping Usd200. It Will Take 4-5 Days To Arrive On Top Of That.... Scarry.... Anyone Else Has Any Other Options In Shipping Or Anyone Here In Hybridz Owns A Shipping Company??? Hhihihi Ok Guys... If Yall Are Still Interested In The Diff Then Holla But I Think That Ends Our Quest For This Shipment.

mull... awsome projet undertaking man... i wish i was as brave as you in stripping the entire car like that and sandblasting.. i'm affraind to find out the reality of my own cars body... great documantation and keep us posted with your progress... i wanted to do the same but work and time came in the way. i use my car daily and thats my only car so couldnt spedn too much time restoring and taking pictures.

I Am Very Very Sure It Will Not Link Up To The Half Shafts

what model z do you have??? if its a 280zx 2+2 then it bolts on except for the input shafts.. as you can see i had to machine the input shafts so that it would match my cv joints... thats why i took a picture of the diff under my car.. after installation... you will have to take the cv joints which comes with the diff and chop it off wherever you need the connection to be made to bolt up with your driveshaft/cv. if you have a 240-280z then you will need a diff cover which has the horizontal mounting screws to bolt onto your mustach bar..... i will replace or get you a diff that fits.. dont worry just tell me or take a pic of your current diff and i will get you the right thing. but the shipping cost is yet to be confirmed... so all of this might be for nothing anyway... sad but true.

here is a hyper link to my gallery... go past the car pictures and th diffs are next. http://album.hybridz.org/showgallery.php?cat=500&ppuser=14097

can yall not view the pix??? if not then go to my gallery i have uploaded all the pix there.