RedFive

I found a fender in a day when I was in LA over spring break. Basically I called around. I started with the Nissan Dealer and asked him if he knew of a Z junkyard in town. He gave me a number that might have some Zs. The next guys didn't, but I asked if they knew a place and they gave me another number. This continued for a few more phone calls until I finally was directed to a Z mechanic in the valley. He gave me his buddy's phone number who sells Z parts and I drove out to Glendale and bought it for like 65 bucks or something. I wish I had that guy's card somewhere, but I don't know what I did with it. That's what I did when I was in a rush to get one that I could install by the end of the day. I didn't want to waste any time on my spring break! Maybe try that...? You might have to call a couple different Nissan dealerships before you find somebody who knows of a junkyard. I called 3 until that happened.

So I went to the hardware store and they didn't have any welding sealer. I even went so far as to ask two different people after my own thorough search, but they said they didn't have it. Are you sure I have to use this stuff?

I did a little photoshop work on my Z. I'm really leaning towards only two of them but I won't say which. I don't want to taint anybody's vote. Tell me which one you guys like the best! OPTION #1 OPTION #2 OPTION #3 OPTION #4

Hey no problem. Obviously I don't know what happened, but after 3 years, it might be worth saving. Maybe just take a break for a little bit or something. Anyways, so I fill it with the seam sealer, both sides, and then sand down the front side after the sealer has dried. Then put some regular filler over that and finish the process like normal. And on the back side, I can just spray paint the dried seam sealer...Right?

Well, turning up the speed helped a lot. I still burn holes once in a while, but I seem to be doing better. I think with the two holes I've been working on (read: learning on), that I should stop pretty soon, even if they aren't 100% filled. I'm worried about grinding through the metal. So...where my "seam" is...just fill in the holes with the sealer? I thought that was the filler's job? Does it dry? Do I have to do anything to the sealer before I put the filler over it? Or in the case of the back side, the paint?

As fast as it goes? Really? Okay, I'll try it. Do you have pictures of the silicone after it has been applied? Do I just gob it up on the back side and then leave it? Obviously I'm not going to be grinding down the back side and such... Thanks for all the help so far.

Okay, so I've already done pretty much exactly what you described. Except for the last part -- the bead. After my inital tacks and removing the tape, I just kept tacking all over the place. I attempted to run a bead, but it just melts all over the place. I've already turned the voltage down......*shrug* Can you describe the beading process? And what should I do to the back side of all my welds when I get to that stage? Some primer spray paint? Or some other sort of sealer? And should I do it before or after I put the body filler in?

Yeah, I saw your photos in the other post from the guy whose rear is damaged. But my welding doesn't seem anywhere near as clean as yours. In some parts it is, but in other parts I have holes and crap. I'm having a little trouble fixing them. I'd like to have it solid all the way around, but...somehow I don't think that's going to happen. I think that if I posted a picture of my welding you guys would laugh at me. I dunno, at least it feels solid... Do you have any tips on the technique? Today the piece I made fit the hole perfectly, so that wasn't the problem. It's my welding. I know this because nobody has ever taught me anything about it, lol

Hmm, i suppose I should get my digital camera out there. I really am not great at this welding thing. Although it seems to be easier when I got the piece cut out to fit exactly. But even when I got it to fit perfectly (for the most part), I still ended up burning a couple holes. And it seems to be harder to weld on the bottom... Is it imperative that I have a solid connection all the way around my piece, or is it more important that it feels solid when I push on it...and then the putty filler will take care of the rest even if I have holes here and there?

Okay, that's what I wanted to know. Thank you. I guess I will have to try harder to cut the panels more exact with my grinder.

Hey, I've got two questions and I couldn't really find a straight answer by searching. 1) I'm "rolling" the rear pan on my 280z and filling in all the holes. I've filled in one of the bumper shock holes already and I tried to cut a piece of sheet metal to fit the hole exactly. With the tools I have, this is hard to make it exact. So the question is...should I just put square plates of sheet metal on the back of the hole and tack them in and then fill all of that gap? Or should I do my best to fit the piece into the hole so that filler will be minimal? I'm using "All metal" and supposedly that will reduce cracking...but I don't want to deal with cracking at all...so which route should I take? 2.) I'm getting rid of the side trim and I've drilled out the rivits that hold it in. A body shop owner told me I should make a small dent around the area of my hole and then put filler in there. But online I've seen guys just welding the holes shut. Which way should I go?? Thanks!

Yeah, nothing is grinding on anything. I knew this already because the vibration feeling is even when I'm stopped. I guess it's something to do with the booster. I checked the vacuum line...looks okay. Took off the front wheels and pads/calipers/etc all look in order. I'm kinda leaning towards the booster anyways, since the housing is all rusty (yet the rest of the car has no rust)....

Well, I talked him down to $300 bucks. Real nice guy, he just wants to see the engine in a car again. Anyways, that sounds like some good advice Pyro. I hadn't even considered having to upgrade the cam along with the turbo. I think I'll leave it for a summer project and just rebuild the T3. Thanks. Now I've just got to figure out how to get this engine from Phoenix up here to Northern Arizona...How heavy is it? And do you think I could fit it in the back of a Jeep Cherokee? Or should I put it on a trailer or in a pickup?

I discovered this morning that the engine revs up when I press on the brakes. Is it still not the booster? I'll try what you suggested Brandon. Thanks.

Great, thanks!

Yes, I know it has already been covered, and I've been reading for half an hour. But since I have a Calculus test I should be studying for, I'd really just like some direct answers, since a search doesn't always provide that. So I found an L28et to drop in my '76. Bottom end has been rebuilt, everything else seems in good order It's from an 81 anniversary edition with an automatic (I'm assuming it'll bolt directly up to an '82 5 speed, right??). He's going to give me two "mass air flow meters," manifolds, etc...but the turbo needs to be rebuilt since the shaft bearings have excessive play. So since I've never taken a turbo apart before and don't know much about their internals and such...I'm thinking of the following three options. Rebuild it myself and see if I can screw it up. Send in the core and get a rebuilt one. Or figure out how do to the T3/T4 conversion that I seem to be hearing about so much. But I can't seem to find what kind of prices are involved. I read anywhere from $100-250 for a rebuild kit, yet somewhere else I read $300 for sending it in and getting a rebuilt one. And I have no idea what an upgraded/hybrid unit would cost me. I'm a college student, so I don't have too many tools in the garage to fabricate things, nor too much money. However, just like everybody else, I want performance. What I will be able to afford will depend on how much I can talk the owner of the engine down from $500. Does $500 seem reasonable for the information I've detailed? Thanks in advance. Logan

I thought I read somewhere that somebody was using a zx booster in their early model z....? I don't know. I just figure that if I'm going to replace it, I don't want to get el cheapo parts. I need to keep reminding myself that I'm a college student, haha!

Fluid level was fine. Didn't look for leaks. Will do so in the morning. I guess if I have to replace this thing...is there a better one I can replace it with?

So I've had my '76 280z a few months. When I got it, brakes were pulling to the right a little bit and I hadn't had time to deal with it yet. Then today I was on the other end of town and at a stop light. The brakes were hissing a little bit, I noticed, and I was just playing with them while waiting for the light. Pumped them a couple times, listening to the sound...not much else. Light turns green and off I go...then the next time I go for the brakes they exhibit the following undesirable features suddenly: -very squishy -vibrating (felt like a gravely feeling, if that makes sense) -had to floor the pedal to get it to even try and stop I'm thinking the booster is dead, but I'd really like to not have to fork out cash for that right now. So before I go and spend money I'd like some second opinions. I did some searching and someone mentioned doing a test of pressing the pedal a few times with the car off -- it should harden up a little. I think maybe it did slightly. But then with a little pressure on the pedal, start the car and the pedal should drop away from your foor towards the floor -- didn't happen. I looked at the FSM troubleshooting section briefly, but...eh... anyways, any ideas?

Okay, I've followed three different leads since I posted this any nobody seems to ever have what I need. Anybody got the piece?

I bought this a while ago: http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/tg/detail/-/0760315833/qid=1128002348/sr=8-1/ref=pd_bbs_1/002-4564612-9036065?v=glance&s=books&n=507846 Good book. Haven't read it fully though because I'm not ready to paint anything yet...

It's pretty torn up on the underside where it's bent over. If it was just the dent in the side, I would have done it. But that fold underneath would require more skill than I have in that dept. I've done a fair amount of welding on my Jeep, so I'm okay with it. Plus, bondo is going to chip. Kitty hair might not, I don't know, but if that tire throws a rock up with enough velocity, there's gonna be a chunk missing. If it's a solid metal panel, I'll probably just be missing a little paint. Plus I have a fiberglass skirt I want to put on the rear that's not going to want to bolt up to bondo on the inner side of the wheel well. Although I never cut any panels out like this before, so...some suggestions would be nice. It looks like it's double walled...?

Great. Let me know.

The junkyard down in Phoenix quoted me $125 without shipping. Now i'd either have to have them ship it up here to Northern AZ or spend and hour or so driving down there. So less than that. Somebody else offered it to me for free if I'd pay shipping, but turned out he only had the right side. Another guy wanted $50 bucks, but he said somebody came and bought it. So...you know...what are you offering? And how about rust and condition of the piece? Is it A-okay?

Hey guys, I'm new to this forum. I've been reading posts here now and then, but I never registered. Anyways, I've been looking high and low for a left rear quarter panel section so I can weld it in to fix the dent in my '76 280z. I've looked on ebay, other z websites, classifieds, etc, etc. Nothing. The Z junkyard obviously has one they want to sell me, but I'm a college student and I'd rather buy it from someone who has less overhead than a junkyard (i.e. somebody who doesn't want a bazillion dollars -- if you can imagine that being a number). Anyways, here's a photo of what the po did to it. He said it was a blowout. :neutral: Basically I would need a piece cut from the bottom up to the side marker light and from the rear corner forward to the back side of the wheel well, if that makes sense. Also, I don't want to just weld random sheet metal in there, I want to do it right, not mickey mouse. And no, the 10 inch patch panel that people make isn't big enough. At an undisclosed z forum, people kept suggesting I do all these different things, and all I want to do is replace it with what used to be there. Also, if you guys have any suggestions on how to go about this, I'd most appreciate it. But first, I have to find the metal! Thanks in advance! Logan