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HybridZ

RedFive

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Everything posted by RedFive

  1. Yeah, uh....that guy made a circular wind tunnel and didn't even know how to scale the velocity down. You need to use Reynolds equation...and circular test sections create all sorts of issues. The best thing to have is a square or rectangular test section. Plus, he doesn't have any screens or honeycombs to get rid of turbulent or angled air. I don't know wtf they're on about the tunnel being pressurized. Most wind tunnels are below atmospheric pressure when they're running. Anyways, I'm currently trying to do a project in conjunction with Dreyer's Ice cream to save their trucks around 5% gas on the highway. But I'll see if I can get some more time to throw a Z model in there.
  2. You might get some downforce out of those whale tails, but the pressure drag you create will be enormous. There will be so much separated flow that didn't used to be there, that I don't know if you will gain anything. What you really want is an inverse airfoil which creates negative lift. I found this picture on the net real quick, but it makes things clear: http://techcenter.davidson.k12.nc.us/fall013/1stgroup/airfoil.gif You want that, but upside down. The best thing to do is to look up NACA series airfoils and pick one and determine how much "downforce" you'll create at whatever speed you intend racing at...and then make the thing out of fiberglass or cf. If you guys want I might be able to get a scale model Z in the windtunnel....
  3. You can get some "rubberized spray paint" from a paint supplier. I used it on my gas tank after refurbishing it...it's much smoother texture than rhino and herc, but still pretty tough. Takes a while to dry though. I'm not sure which one I found at the store, but they're probably all going to be the same: http://froogle.google.com/froogle?q=rubberized%20paint&ie=UTF-8&oe=UTF-8&client=firefox-a&rls=org.mozilla:en-US:official&sa=N&tab=wf
  4. I vote to wet sand and buff those bumpers to get some more shine out of the black. Don't chrome it, the black goes better with the rest of the car. Nice job with everything there
  5. So you didn't rinse it with water like the bottle says?
  6. Yeah, I picked it up this morning and tried it out this afternoon. I'm not sure if I did it right though since I didn't seem to get amazing results. It kind of just turned it black. I brushed it on, let it sit for a couple hours, and then wire brushed it as I washed it off with water... How are you doing it?
  7. It sucks being in Arizona, too! We're in Monsoon season right now, so it rains every afternoon!
  8. Okay, I'll have to get that stuff tomorrow. Will I have problems working with it in a tight space?
  9. Why would I need to drop the gas tank?? If I was going to do anything in that area I could just move/disconnect the vent tank and the filler tube. But what do I do about the rust and the inability to get at it? It's not too bad. I was able to punch a couple pinholes on the outter body sheet metal, but that's about it. If I could get at it all, I'm sure it would just grind away. Is there a liquid fix for this?
  10. So I was sanding away trying to get my 280z painted before school starts and what do you know? Rust! I need advice on how to deal with it. The gas tank filling area is where I have it. You know how there's the cup shaped sheet metal spot welded on the inside of the car with the gas filler hose going through it and the gas door closes over it? It's the thing right behind the gas fume tank thing. Well, I found some bad rust between the outer sheet metal and this inner spot welded piece and I can't get at it because there is basically no tool that will get into the space I have. I suppose what happened was that over 30 years, gas dripped into the crack and that was that How should I deal with this? Anybody had this problem before?
  11. Yeah, so I found out it's magnesium. Wtf? Anyways, I JB welded it and it's fine so far.
  12. Well, I determined that's it's aluminum. And I've never welded aluminum before. I think I'm going to take it off and have the local welding shop put a bead in there or something. That won't cost much...maybe 20 or 30 I bet.
  13. I have to warn you, this question is about a Jetta, but I think the solution will be universal -- plus I didn't know who else to turn to. I don't want to join some wimpy Jetta forum! Anyways, my girlfriend hit a rock with her jetta and now there is a hairline slice in it, maybe 1/2 to 1 inch long. It only drips very slightly. Perhaps a drip every 5-10 seconds, but I didn't time it. Anyways, how can I fix this? Obviously buying a new pan is an option, but the usual parts places (Autozone, pepboys, etc) don't seem to carry it. I found it on ebay for 30 bucks, but that seems too cheap. Welding it shut is obviously an option, but I don't trust my welding skills enough to not burn a hole through the damn thing. What about soldering? Would that stick to steel? I'm assuming it's steel. I guess it's possible that it's aluminum...anybody know?
  14. I assumed he had already found roller method posts since he is already at the point of sanding it down. But just in case anybody else is interested here is the original post at a MOPAR forum which somebody here at HybridZ found and posted about a while ago: Pages 1-43: http://board.moparts.org/ubbthreads/showflat.php?Cat=0&Number=2331682&page=0&fpart=1&vc=1 But then the stupid MOPAR forum guys archived the thread so it is continued here at page 44: http://board.moparts.org/ubbthreads/showflat.php?Cat=0&Number=2655425&an=0&page=0#Post2655425
  15. I'm currently doing the same project Ericw. It's fine if you have metal and primer. Just as long as it's a smooth transition. If it's bumpy, obviously you're going to see where the primer was. And like he said above me, rustoleum is made for bare metal.
  16. Weird. Never heard of that happening. But what does a city boy like me know? Haha
  17. So if I find this elusive seam sealer (and now I know where to look, thanks)...I can just wire brush the back of the weld and then brush or spray it on there?
  18. You mean the deer was hit by your Integra, right? If you're planning on painting the jams, you may as well sand it all down while you have it out.
  19. Can anybody tell me who makes this stuff? What it's officially called? What it looks like? Where they normally sell it?? Thanks
  20. Yeah, I know it'll be expensive. But if you're going to be selling it then supposedly you'll make the money back. Is the neck made out of fiberglass too? I would worry about axial stress and shear stress and stuff if you made it all out of fiberglass. You might think about some sort of composite. But then again, you could probably do it in fiberglass if you make sure you have the correct type of geometry to resist the load you're going to apply. But hell, it's just a guitar. I guess if it bends too much you'll just have to retune it more often!
  21. If you want it done professionally, I would suggest sending it out to a stereolithography shop. Most of those places can make you a plastic or plaster mold very quickly and it'll basically be perfect. I am currently in the process of molding something for the Z with my school's machines.
  22. I vote for the welding. Obviously you'll have to be really careful not to heat the metal up too much. You don't want anything warping. I use this really great filler called All Metal. Don't know why you would put fiberglass filler down on a metal surface? Just for the structure of it?
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