Ed260Z
-
Posts
534 -
Joined
-
Last visited
-
Days Won
1
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Blogs
Events
Gallery
Downloads
Store
Posts posted by Ed260Z
-
-
The worrisome part is that nobody seems to know exactly how this relates to it's installation into an S30. There are numerous suspension geometry issues that could really cause problems in such a swap' date=' and I'm getting the feeling that most people don't even know what questions to ask, let alone know how to solve them.
[/quote']
I would love to hear some input from the guys who have done this already. With the big question being; Was it worth it?
-
This is in response to a post that was apparently removed by the Moderator. It was a bit of a flame on the whole concept of this swap. But this is a forum where we discuss ideas of hybriding the Z. (Hence the name). In the post he said that the S13/S14 IRS was not any better than the S30 IRS. In all of the posts I've read people remark about how well the 240SX handles, I would assume that has something to do with the suspension. (But I could be wrong.)
I had a new S14 for a few months, when I worked for Nissan, as a demo and I thought it handled very well. The only problem was the lack of power from the engine.
There was also some question as to the validity of this swap for a stonger diff. I never said that Long nose R200 could not take the power. (The R180 could probably handle it) The reason for this swap IMO is to kill several birds with one stone. Like Diff, Brakes & Suspension.
-
If you look at maichor's pics. it looks like he cut out the "tool box". May be you could notch the interference point, or try and slide it back further in the chassis.
-
A big question you need to answer is just how much power do you want to run through the diff? That will help rule out some of the many choices you have. I plan on a 550 to 600 Hp to the wheels, so I want something stout. (R230 maybe?)
-
You just have to love the A/M support that's available. Another big reason why I'm considering this swap.
There has also been some question as to weight gain. Although I havn't weighed these items, I can't imagine there being a big gain in weight (if any). And my uderstanding that most engine swaps bias the weight forward 100-200 Lbs (except 4 bangers like the SR20). But even that has no real effect on the car.
-
Check out both of these links. Great write up.
http://alteredz.com/280ZCVHalfshaftConversion.htm
http://alteredz.com/240ZCVHalfshaftConversion.htm
This should answer all of your questions.
-
Can you use the S14 sub frame with the S13 arms?
The S13 uses 4 bolts to attach the diff, and the S14 uses 2. Most of the LSD's I've seen have 2 bolts, and I don't want to lose the finned cover off of these difs.
-
If I were you ( without getting myself worked up) I'd shop for your options and THEN ...if you create a better deal/brand for equal or barely more' date=' ask him to cancel due to the marketing ploy.
Heck.....I really was just showing options there Joel. You move quick with that darn mouse brother !!lol.
Either way.....Goodyear plant rubber is all the same ,just the marketing is rearranged for sales demographics etc.
I bet they'll be fine.Cause your car is gonna smoke ANYTHING you buy !!lol.
..............Vinny[/quote']
I'd have to agree with Vinny on that one. It's all the same rubber. (more or less) That said that kind of stuff just pisses me off. That's even worse than the Head Light scam. ($15.95 + $39.95 shipping.) I say try and work him over first.
-
.................There are numerous rear disk conversion available for the S30 at considerably less than what you list price wise. But then I notice all of your prices on the 280 stuff are on the high side. And it seems pretty unfair to compare the price of a 280 set up with adjustable control arms to a fixed geometry 240 rear.
Maybe a hard assesment to judge fairly. But in my mind that would tell me whether all the work is worth it or not.
I seem to have taken some heat here for how I priced out the 280 stuff. Most of the prices are from Modern Motorsports. I did a 280ZX rear disk conversion for $500, but that's a 10" disc. If I'm not mistaken the Q45 has a 12" rear disk. Modern Motorsports has a "Big" 13" rear disk set up for $1225. And I thought that the S13/S14 had toe adjustment.
I used Modern Modersports because they are a very good company, and there stuff is purpose built.
And yes I hope that the members have done this will chime in with there assesment.
-
MSA for sure. www.zcarparts.com But there has to be a few other places you can find.
-
I've ordered plenty of stuff from MSA. Good guys 98% of the time.
-
Here is a link to MSA. http://www.zcarparts.com/store/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=25-1067&Category_Code=WWC19
This gives you everything but the tires. Not bad for $550.
I got my rims off Ebay for $450 plus $50 to ship them, then I spent another $50 for the Z logo's Z caps, Valve stems and new lug nuts. I would have gotten them from MSA, but they where jerking me around on an other order. After spending close to $4k with them in just 2 months you would have thought that they wanted to keep me happy. Any way they took care of the problem finally, so I'm OK with them again.
-
Well, those are late 70's wheels, compared to 2005 alloy's. Keep in mind that just because that's a Shelby center cap, they're not necessarly Shelby wheels.
-
Yehh, I was looking through a few of his threads. He did a real nice job on it. His thread seems to be the only one I could find that went into anykind of detail. Of few others have some info.
I was hopeing that we couild get enough input, from members that have done this, so that this could become a real information stop. And hopefully help people like me do a safe swap.
-
I called the storage place. "The car is not for sale." %$&^^%#&!!!!!!!!!! %$%@
yeah' date=' i saw the tire size, after i posted...225mm is closer to 9 inches though. i don't know what width wheels you use under 225's.
dang it
what should i do? i want the wheels... ill check if they have a dog...hehe j/k[/quote']
They are probably 15X7's. The wheels look like they are in marginal shape, a best any way. I wouldn't worry about it to much. Get the Konig rims. Brand new, and much lighter (I'm sure).
-
I've been doing a lot a research on what to do with my S30 lately, and I came across a very interesting swap. The reason for my search is that I plan on installing a RB26DETT into my Z, and I'm going to need a much stronger rear to handle the power. The easiest mod would be to get a Long Nose R200, and the accompanying adapters to make it work, 280Z companion flange, ect.....
There has been some debate on why anyone would ever want to do this. So this is what I've gathered up so far. (This not intended to be a how to in any way. I just saw a lot of scattered info, and I wanted a place to put it all. Hopefully the guys have done this already will chime in, and add to the post.) Because I still have a lot of questions!
Why do this swap?
You can get a vastly superior rear suspension set-up with a ton of current A/M support. It also allows the easier installation of the newer short nose R200 diff, with stronger half shafts, 5 lug hub and bigger rear disk brakes. And it will be cheaper to do (If I where handy with a welder) than the more common diff swaps.
If you do the math on what you would need to spend on the S30 IRS to get it to the point of what you get out of the S13/S14 IRS you will see a big difference.
No, you say well lets see:
R200 LSD I've seen as high as $800 (used not new or re-man)
280ZX Half Shafts $350 Rebuilt
CV Adapter $225
280Z Companion Flange $150
280Z Stub Axle $700
Adj Control Arms $600
Big rear brakes $900-1200
Plus a few other things. So we are looking at about $4000 to get a nice rear set-up.
Compare that to the 240SX IRS:
S13/S14 IRS $500
Q45 R200 $300
Q45 Hub & brakes $450 (w/new rotors)
Custom Half Shafts $600
Welding skill $0 to the moon
OK, so this set-up will run about $2000. That's leaves mw with $2000 more that I can dump into my motor.(Which is the whole reason I'm doing this to begin with)
Here is a great post by maichor on his swap. http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=96050
This is what I've pieced toghether so far on how to do this swap;
S13/S14 Sub frame modified by cutting off the front mount, and using the 3/4" hole just behind as the new mounting point for the front.
Weld a peice of flat stock on floor just in front of the "tool box", to support the front mount.
Welding in a new piece of 3X3 box tubing just behind the stock frame on the S30 where the Mustache Bar mounts. This will be the new mounting point for the rear.
Cut some sections of the stock rear sub frame for clearance.
Replace the 240sx hubs with the Q45's
Replace the 240SX Diff with the Q45's
Take some measurements, And have some Half Shafts made.
This is a very simplified run down of what you need to do, but as I said I still have a lot of questions on exactly what needs to be done.
The problem that I see wuth useing the S14 is that it's 5" wider than the S30, and requires some big flares in the rear.
The S13 is about 3" wider, so mild ZG flares will take care of that.
Here is a shot of Montoya's S13 IRS.
I'm not sure what the real benefit of useing the S14 over the S13 is? I hope that someone chimes in to answer that for me.
Please make any corrections to the info that I have, and to add more detail to it.
Just a few questions to start with;
1)What insulators are you using to mount the new Sub frame to the Chassis?
2)Will I have drive shaft problems since the Diff will be mounted in the center, instead of offset by 3/4"?
3)Can I bolt on the S30 Shock "Hat" to mount the 240SX Strut to the stock location on the Chassis?
4)Why use the S14 over the S13 sub-frame?
5)Do you need a spacer in between the rear mount and the frame?
-
Interesting comment. Not to hijack the thread' date=' but this is a fascinating helmet article:
That is one hell of an article. I'm no scientist, but a lot of the article made sense to me, very logical. But I can't figure out why Snell has such a problem with the magazine.
I always thought the Snell rated helmets where the ones to get period. They seem, based on their president’s letter, to COMPLETELY IN THEIR OWN WORLD. And if anyone questions them they are dismissed like an annoying "Red Headed Step Child". Any organization that can't defend their position to someone who asks reasonable questions, IMO, does not deserve my consideration. And therefore leaves all of their rating subject to more scrutiny. Perhaps, we as consumers, have given them so much power to sway us, that they feel that they are beyond reproach.
Any one who claims to be looking out for our saftey must remain open to new ideas. But Snell seems to be stuck in the 1960's. I think they need a wake up call!
-
I really like that style of wheel. So I bought a set of Rewinds for my car. Your looking at about $50 -75 per rim more, if you have someone else repair them for you. I'd say no more than $20 per rim, and that's just to make them worth it. If you can repair them your self, maybe $35.
These also appear to be 14" wheels, but it's kind of hard to tell. My suggestion would be to get a set of "Rewinds" for about $125 each. And I would also go with 15' versions. It will still leave you plenty of side wall.
http://www.konigwheels.com/catalog_product_details.cfm?CategoryID=1&ss_id=405
-
Let us know how they look once they are in? I was thinking of getting those exact ones a few months ago. It seems that these are the only "cheap" lights available without the City lights that I've seen on Ebay.
In the end I felt that these lights were to cheap to be worth it. So I got the H-4's from Too Intense Restoration. Twice the price including shipping, but the lights are outstanding. My first reaction to these lights was "OMFG I can see". The beam is well controlled, and VERY Bright. And the lens is Glass not plastic.
-
I actually fixed a dented tank on my Fiesta with an M80.
A dented corner might be more difficult since it is a high crown area.
Maybe need 2 M80's.
Well I don't think I'll do the M80 "repair" technique. With my luck I'll leave some gas in there, and I'll have a real BOOM. LOLI not good at welding(UNDERSTATEMENT OF THE YEAR), so do you think a Rad repair shop fix it?
-
Is there any way to fix a dented tank? I've got a big dent on one of the corners, and it's dam hard to find a nice tank without spending Big Buck$.
-
You can also use a version of the S12+8 calipers for the vented rotor conversion.
Let me explain. There are two different Toyota 4x4 calipers with the casting mark "S12+8". One for a solid rotor and one for a vented (wider) rotor. The 1979-85 4x4 calipers are for use with a solid rotor but the 1986-88 4x4 calipers are also marked "S12+8" but they are designed to fit the wider' date=' vented rotor.
[img']http://home.comcast.net/~zcarfan/S12solid.jpg[/img]
If you examine and compare the two different S12+8 calipers you will see that they are the same casting, (actually they are a pair of castings, one for each side of the caliper) except one is machined more that the other to be used on the solid (thinner) rotor.
There are advantages of using the S12+8 caliper (for the vented rotor) over the S12W caliper: It is lighter in weight; The S12+8 caliper body is not as wide as the S12W caliper, so clearance to the wheel is increased; The S12+8 caliper has two 43.0mm diameter pistons and two 33.8mm diameter pistons whereas the S12W has four 43.0mm diameter pistons. This increase in piston area requires a larger (1") diameter master cylinder when using the S12W calipers.
The belief that only the calipers with a “W†will fit a vented rotor is a myth.
If you want to use the S12W calipers then some additional application information is the 1989-1995 Toyota 4 Wheel Drive Pickup Truck.
I need some clarification here.
I've gone through several posts for my front brake swap, and I'm getting conflicting info on these calipers. I like the fact that S12+8 "late style wide" are lighter. And I assume that the install would be the same as the S12W. (Please correct me if I'm wrong.)Most posts regarding the S12+8 say that it's inferior to the S12W's. Is this realy the case? (It seems that they are talking about the solid rotor version though.)
Does anyone have these on their car?
What model Toyo are they from, and do I need to specify that I need the wide ones when I get them?
Thanks for any help.
-
It's looking good Q. To bad you had to notch the shifter opening. And what are you going to do with the speed sensor?
-
Q, I just got the cover today, and man does it look sweet. All I need now is an engine to bolt it in to. LOL:twisted:
Well I don't think I'll do the M80 "repair" technique. With my luck I'll leave some gas in there, and I'll have a real BOOM. LOL
I've gone through several posts for my front brake swap, and I'm getting conflicting info on these calipers. I like the fact that S12+8 "late style wide" are lighter. And I assume that the install would be the same as the S12W. (Please correct me if I'm wrong.)
Rear Suspension Clarifications
in Brakes, Wheels, Suspension and Chassis
Posted
The circlip goes on the diff stub to hold it in.