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Posts posted by Ed260Z
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I'm hopping someone knows how to get this thing working again. I have a 74 260Z without A/C, and the Heter control valve just broke. MSA says that they can only get the version with A/C, which won't work. Mine is a simple cable driven system with no vacum lines or elec. controls. I looks like the lever controlled by the temp mixing switch operates a "plunger" in the valve. There is a "stem" sticking out the backside of the valve, and it looks like the lever had something attached to it, but I can't find it.
Am I right to assume that there was something connecting the lever to the "stem"?
Does anyone know how this can be repaired, or do I need to hunt down a new one?
Or does anyone have a good picture of what this part is suppose to look like?
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Looking better. But I have to agree about the Chicken Wire. How about some vertical slats similar to whats on the car stock. And the anlge of the lip on the chin should be a little flatter. Could you push the side vents in a bit. Great work man keep it up.
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Looks good, but I think you might have the dimensions off a bit in the front. The nose looks a bit to tall. Try reducing the space between the wheel well lip & the top of the fender. I like the touch with the JDM mirrors.
The wing, I don't know. Not my taste, a little ricer IMO. How about a nice BRE style lip wing. Or if you like that style wing, bring it down to just a few inches off the hatch.
Now if only you could get someone to make your kits.
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on the little plate by the drivers door it sais:
R-LS30-037820 6/74
how un helpfull its mid year...uhh WTH lol
Mine was built in 7/74, but it's actually no help since the factory shipped out both styles from June to August. But you said that the bumber is smaller than the 280Z so it's probably an early model. BTW I have also have the 2 "tool" bins behind the chairs.
How about posting a pic of the bumber?
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Don't forget to post a pic with those bad boys mounted.
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I've been told that if you ride on wrapped header daily they will crack. And that if you plan on haveing them on a daily driver the Blanket is sugested. This is why I got a blanket instead of the wrap. Not sure how true it is though.
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The molded carpet is if you have carpet on the Tranny tunnel.
I have an Early 260Z which is more like the 73 240Z's sectional carpet. I think that the late 260Z had the carpet on the tunnel which would be the same as on a 75 280Z.
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..............but the blue wont match teh red on my car.
You can change the "City" bulb to another color.
Not to bust your bubble' date=' but those ebay type lights are horrible. I ran a set on my 260, they look pretty but they have horrible glare and a bad light pattern. shine them on a walll and look at your cut off. My lights were very easy to outdrive at night.Anyway... I think hella ecodes are awsome lights, and I prefer the look. Very highquality light with an excellent pattern and cutoff. Prices are very resonable depening on which bulbs you decide on.[/quote']
I'd have to agree, I havn't heard anything good about these lights, or any other on ebay. I got mine from Too Intense Res. $80. Great lights & good pattern.
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........ but the axels are 6 bolt on the zxt diff and the r180 is 4 bolt..
I thought that the 6bolt where off a VLSD. From a 88 SE ZXT.
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I'm sure I read this in one of the treads, but I've been on so many that I can't remaber where the heck I saw it.
Once I get the motor in the car how do I start it? My understanding so far is that I just hook the ECU to the Stock Harness (More or less plug & play). I think that there is a fuse and relay panel that goes in the engine compartment as well. The question is where do I splice in the stock S30 harness to the RB harness? More to the point, Am I just simply runing a power wire the the RB harness???
I'm going to appologize or this
question, but my brain just farted & I can't see through the haze!
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When I got my headers I thought that I could save some money, and just get the blanket or wrap instead of spending another $125 on ceramic coating. Well live and learn, I ended up spending about $80 for the blanket and hardware, and I ripped up when I changed my clutch. So I spend another $70 for a new blanket. It would have been cheaper for me to have gotten the coating to begin with, and it would not be as fragile as wrap. Once the wrap gets hot, it's like tissue paper.
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When it comes to your brakes my opinion is to take NO short cuts. The booster looks preety run down. Spend a few hundred and get a rebuilt one.
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For the instrument gauges' date=' I'm going to order the white LEDs. The light intensity can be adjusted on the gauges so it might not bleed out the colour. BTW, how many bulbs do each gauge require? I can feel four bulbs each for the speedo and tach. How about the three center gauges?
[/quote']
I have a 260Z, Their are 2 bulbs in each for illumination on the Speedo & Tach, and the other 3 gauges have 1 bulb each for illumination.
The Speedo has 2 more for the high beam & E-brake indicator, and the tach has 2 for the turn signals. If you have a volt gauge in your car you will need 1 more for the charge indicator. That's 12 bulbs total.
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I hope your not doing this on purpose, but now you're going to incite all the SR20 guys. I think you've managed to get to just about everyone so far...maybe you should say something bad about a rotary engine swap to make sure you cover them as well.
Oh yeh, and who would want to drop a rotary in their car.
OK just kidding, don't flame me to hard.
I'm just saying that going down in cylinder count is not IMO would should be done. IMO a great swap is something that shows great inginuity, and enhances the car. Dropping a few cyl does not enhance a car. I don't car if it makes 1000Hp with a 700 shot of nitros. The rotary is a whole different animal. When ever you think of an exotic sports car do you say, "Damn I wish it where a 4cyl"???????? I don't think so.
One more thing I think that this subject has been
.
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This is wierd. It's been getting well below 25 deg lately at night, and my clock stops. I guess it's so cold that time is standing still.
Once it warms up it will run fast for about 1 hour until it gets close to the actual time. WEIRD
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Swallow the damn blue pill allready!
But I don't want to go down the Rabbit Hole. LOL:-D
Lets not flip this around an call the Mustang a POS. My S30 doesn't have much more technology in it than the Stang has. Would you say that dropping an RB into my car is a life sentence for that motor.
I'm just saying that a Stang needs a V8. I'm not a huge fan of dropping cylinder in an engine swap. But to each his own. I could never drop in a 4cyl into my S30. And I don't thing a car that should have a V8, should have a 6cyl in it.
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If I change it to the S13 diff cover I lose the finned LSD cover. Or did the S13 have an LSD available for it?
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Not to be the devils advocate, but think you guys are to emotionally involved in this, a mustang especially a fastback is an American Icon, and they mutilated it with some jap engine….!!
I don't like it, but I'm not of the same opinion as above. If they where to have dropped in a HighTech Jap V8 makeing all kinds of sick power. I would have loved it. Maybe an old F1 V8 with a 15K red line. Hummmmm!
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May be I never scrolled the page low enough before, but I just saw these on Arizonaz's site. http://arizonazcar.com/lowarms.html This in combination with the relocation of the pivot point should help allot.
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How about a full out race pressure plate and clutch from Spec, http://www.specclutch.com/
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Huhh, A 409 Big Block is a V8 right?
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The clutch assembly won't save you that much weight. No matter which you get they will all be within a few pounds of each other. Lightened Fly Wheel if the rules allow it. With a 200Hp engine you could use a Stock Style Clutch Disk. ACT makes a real good clutch, without killing the bank account.
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With out undoing the circlip at all? Wouldn't that damage the clip? Is the clip accesable from inside the diff housing or inside the carrier. I love this site, thanks for the responses
DON'T try to remove the Circlip from the shaft. You will destroy it if you try. Just pop the shaft out with the clip inplace.
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When it comes to Custom Rods anything goes. As long as it make great power. I would love to see that done.
Electric fuel pump location question
in Fuel Delivery
Posted
http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=105769&highlight=Fuel+Pump