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Posts posted by Ed260Z
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Stock S30's measure @ 4X114.3 w/0 offset on a 7" rim. I have no idea what the skyline measures, but I don't think that the offset will work.
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The car looks nice. When I was in the Army, and more into Muscle Cars I wanted this kit. So I got a 77 280Z to use as a donor, and have been a Z freak since.
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I found this company on Ebay. They aren't too far from my house so I can go look at it. This is one of the best looking half cuts that I've seen. This is an R32, but he says he has a R33 in similiar complete condition. I going to call them on Monday, and see if we can work out a deal.
So it seems like a half cut is the way to go. Now R32 or R33? I'm not planning on abusing the car, but the occasional "spirited run" will be in it's future.
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I want to build my car in stages. As it is the RB26DETT will almost triple the power that the car has now. Stage 1 will be a mostly stock swap. And as the car comes along, and money allows I will start upgrading components. The final stage will be bigger Turbos, right after the ECM.
An Oil Cooler is something that I want to do right off the bat. (Thanks for that info HakosukaJD) The Z doesn't have the best aerodynamics, and I will need to keep the air flowing freely. That's where stage 2 comes into play. It will consist of a Kaminari 3 hole front spoiler with ducting to force the air where I want it to go, and a belly pan from a 75-78 Z.
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I can see why you needed that M/C. Let us know how the brake pedal feels, once it's all ready to go.
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I think I've seen this done on Hot Rods. I would start checking some of those forums. There is a company that I've seen before in some of the American Car mags that makes to M/C setup your looking for. But I can't remember their name, starts with Lo...... Sorry I just can't recall.
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The Bad Dog Parts frame rail is a stock replacement piece. He is looking to tie in the front and rear of the car with a Sub-frame connector. But I hear they make quality parts (no experience with them myself) May be if you ask them nicely they will make a set for you.
Use and age will have twisted your chassis a bit. I would take it to a shop with a frame machine, and have it checked before you start to stiffen up the chassis. A few extra bucks now will save you time & effort later.
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What's up with the name of this post? There's nothing Ford about this car except for the "body". And that doesn't fit well.
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MOst of the posts that I've read say to change to Oil & Water Pumps before you drop in the motor. The N-1 stuff is only about $50 more than the stock pieces so why not?
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I would go with 225/50's, they would have filled out the wheel wells better. I'll post another pic on Sat for you 0100.
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I think that it is unfair to give someone the idea that this swap can be done cheaply...IT CANT. Do it..and keep the receipts.
I dont think that just the engine for $6K is that cheap, just for parts. If the engine & ECU will run about $4K, another $2K should be more than enough for all the other basics. Remeber I'm just talking about a mostly stock engine, nothing else. Not including the purchase of the car, the chassis will need about $4K in mods, plus another $1500 to upgrade the drivetrain, and $1K for the GTS tranny.
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- I'm not sure you will end up using a lot of the stuff' date=' as everyone suggests using after market computers, turbos, radiators, intercoolers etc. [/quote']
I'm hoping to be able to use the stock Skyline Rad & Intercooler. The ECM will be replaced with the AEM PNP ECM eventualy, but for now I will just get it re-flashed. And the turbo's will also stay stock, for now. (They should handle 15 PSI (1bar) with no real issue.)
I also want to put A/C into my car, and the half cut will have the components that I would need, with some modification.
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8-10k? For a stock RB' date=' with a tuned ECU and Tranny?
Good god, who are you buying from? I can buy all that stuff factory rebuilt for less than 5k! Shipping is only around $500 to the U.S. for a block! Are they really charging that much overhead in the U.S.? I know of at least 2 used RB's going for less than 2k on base....and an OS Cross mission for about the same![/quote']
I'm including the price that you to pay for someone else to rebuild it for you with some preformance upgrades. Like New Rods & Pistons, N1 Pumps, everything but bigger turbos.
I figure that mine will run around $6K, but thats me doing all the work myself.
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however in Australia, the 240Z cost me $14K (Aust).
I thought the Z would have been cheaper in Aus. Or is that the cost with the resoration?
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JUN is a Jap A/M parts maker. Like Greddy, HKS ect.....
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Check ou tthis site. www.alteredz.com He did a real nice job on his car, and posted a lot of information. You could use a 1/2" thinner piece of stock and not cut into the floor.
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Yehh the AEM is a bit scary at first glance, and when you look into it further it gets even scarier.LOL
I figure that by the time I'm ready to get a new ECM I would have read the manual a few times. If I still have problems, there is a tuner shop localy that is AEM trained.
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Looks sweet, but I don't like the way the Rad sticks out the top.
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Ding, ding, ding, ding! We have a winner! Congratulations Ed, you have asked the dumbest question of the week here on HybridZ. And for that, you get this: http://forums.hybridz.org/search.php?
OOOOOOOuuuuccchhhhhh!!!!!!!
That hurts man. LOL:redface:
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Is there anyway to fix this on the R32? Such as the N1 Oil Pump.
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I've seen his car on the web before. He is doing some nice work on that Z. I realy like the way he intigrated the Roll Cage into the rest of the Body, and that chopped look is sweet.
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Can you fit 285's with the stock style struts & springs, or will you need to do a Coil Over conversion?
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That's some Class A work you've done there. It looks like you've got the suspension for 2 cars in the the pics. Did you get all the parts from AZ Z?
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Thanks. Should I spend a few bucks more and get the R33 or will the 32 be fine? I'm going for around 600Hp when all is said and done.
opinion on spacers and adapters?
in Brakes, Wheels, Suspension and Chassis
Posted
As long as the design is right I don't see why I wouldn't use them if neccesary. Porsche has been useing them as standard equipment on their cars for years.
If I could get away with not useing them I would go that way. Less unsprung weight.