Alf

my car was originally fuel injected and had a return line factory. the regulator i am using operates with the car's stock return system. i have the regulator positioned on the shock tower about 2 ft from the carb, i have a pressure inlet, bypass, and outlet, and a brand new wix fuel filter between the regulator and carb. thats why i can't understand why the pressure would fluctuate so much, could it be a faulty regulator? the regulator i am using isn't one of those $30 mr. gasket ones, it is a mallory unit and was promised to regulate the super high pressure from the factory pump.

i have hooked a guage to it and the pressure is steady till it passes 4psi and then it shoots up and down at least 2psi. the jetting is good, the power valves are not really ideal. the float level is correct, and there are no vacuum leaks, i had one earlier but fixed it. i just changed both power valves with no change in performance, it seams rich just off ide at cruise spead cause it smells like gas real bad, but when i pull a plug they look perfect. i also recently advanced the timing and it seemed to smooth out a lot, i think maybe the ring on my dampner has spun giving me false timing info.

wouldnt the car idle crappy?

they still don't have a listing for the secondary power valve.

thats a great site but my carb was not listed. my carb's list number is 6468

i have an 85 300zx with a stock 305 chevy, i retained the electric in tank pump and used a mallory regulator set at 6psi. i have a 650 spread bore double pumper holley and i just cannot get this car to run right. could the fuel pump be providing too much fuel? it just seems like any modification i make to the carb it has no effect, the car stumbles and runs rough at low rpm, and then it hits a certain point and it totally smooths out and picks up. it almost seems like its retarted or its loading up, i cant figure it out. any ideas? would a mechanical pump be a better choice for a carb?

help, i can't find any info on this

i have a holley double pumper, spread bore 650. it has power valves on the primary and secondary sides, should they be the same rated valve or should they vary. or should i just plug the secondary side and only use one?

thats not very descriptive, what does it do if you are driving and sudenly stab the gas? from what you said it sounds like the accelerator pump discharge nozzels, or squirters. check and see what you have and try the next step smaller. this could also be your accelerator pump cam, the cams can be swapped to get more cc's out of the pump. i recomend getting the "holley carburetor handbook" by mike urich, its very informative. and once you know how the carburetor works its fairly simple to tune it to your engine.

im using a set of mallory high po points with a borg warner coil, the coil says right on it that it does not need an externel resistor and it is wired correctly. im using the stock electric in tank pump with a regulator set at 5psi, im contemplating just removing the pump and running a mechanical. im not sure of the list number on the carb but it is a 650cfm spread bore double pumper with side hung float bowls, its practically brand new since i just rebuilt it. i changed the thermostat about a week ago and it seems to run alot cooler so i think the other one was junk, im guessing that the thermostat and the slightly lean fuel mixture caused the stalling problem, and it has not happened since, i might be in the clear.

yeah, i went over all the intake bolts and carb base plate nuts, so they are all tight, then i poured oil around the intake gasket and it was not sucked in, and i looked for other vacuum leaks around the carb but couldnt seam to find any. i wouldnt be surprised if the motor had a few weak cylenders i got it for free and its from a junkyard. i'm leaning towards the fuel mixture being the problem, i recently purchased a different carb from a swap meet, rebuilt it, and threw it on and it runs noticably better. i still have some carb tuning to do so ill let you all know what happens when i get that right. also does anyone have experience tuning carbs with power valves on both the primary and secondary side, should i use the same rated power valve for both sides or should they vary?

the engine had an hei originaly, and i would have used it, but the cap diameter is too big and will hit the firewall. i need an electronic conversion for the points distributor but im still tryin to get all the bugs out of the whole car. Another weird thing is that it recently cooled off alot here and it didnt die on me the last time i drove for a good half hour, so i thingk somethings gotta be getting too hot. ozone in the cap maybe?

i have all the fuel lines wrapped in heat reflective sheathing and a 1/4 inch heat spacer/gasket under the carb

looks good

yeah my camaro is the first car i have restored so far, ive had it since i was 15, i love first gens. the best my car ever ran was 12.82, it also ran a 12.87 on a 95 degree day after i added a msd 6al and a carter fuel pump, so im figuring 12.7s and maybe 12.6s in ideal conditions. the only difference besides minor engine differences is that my car is a four speed. you can probly expect the same when you go, you gotta have slicks though cause it will just smoke tires all day which you probly already know.

i removed my front swaybar off of my 69 camaro and the handling really dropped off. It still feals stable at spead, but showed no measurable performance at the drag strip. so it depends if you like the handling of your car then figure it is going to get noticably worse when you remove the sway bar. If it is a mostly drag car or that is all you care about, removing the sway bar does help slightly. all the guys in the F.A.S.T. class muscle car drags cut the rubber bushings oversize and grease them so it looks like its there but does nothing.

where do i get them and how much are they.

It will run for about 15 min, and the fuel filter looks clean but i should take it off and check.

thats seems like a heck of a lot of power, someone else did it and came up with right around 300hp and 350tq

I also ajdusted the timing slightly, adjusted the fuel pressure to 5psi, and adjusted the idle mixture screws, its pulling 19 inches of mercury, i also have my electric fan running non stop, and i put a 1/4 inch gasket/spacer under my carb for heat isolation and it still dies out. i'm running out of ideas.

hey nice camaro boodlefoof. i have a 69 with almost the exact same engine, you ever run that car in the 1/4 mile?

Thanks man. thats more than i thought it would be, cant wait to get started now.

yeah i probably should try and get a better intake if i can find one for 30 bucks or so, but then i might have hood clearance problems. how much taller is a performer than a gm?

If anyone has a desktop dyno could you please enter these specs in and see what kind of power you come up with thanks. 307 ci 3.9 inch bore, 3.25 inch stroke, 9 to 1 compression, 1.94/1.50 inch valves, mild port work, .454 in lift, 205 duration at .050, GM egr four barrel intake manifold, holley 600cfm spread bore vacuum secondary 4 barrel, chevy points distributor, Z/28 windage tray, 1 5/8 long tube headers(this is with no fuel pump or fan)sorry i am not sure on the piston design of the 307 just figure 9 to 1 compression, the heads are 76cc chambers

If anyone has a desktop dyno could you please enter these specs in and see what kind of power you come up with thanks. 307 ci 3.9 inch bore, 3.25 inch stroke, 9 to 1 compresion, 1.94/1.50 inch valves, .454 in lift, 205 duration at .050, GM egr four barrel intake manifold, holley 600cfm spread bore vacuum secondary 4 barrel, chevy points distributor, Z/28 windage tray, 1 5/8 long tube headers(this is with no fuel pump or fan)sorry i am not sure on the piston design of the 307, the heads are 76cc chambers