Alf

You can put it right behind the distributor, that way you can run a shorter line and not have to worry about it getting crimped or burnt.

There is a passage right behind the distributor housing that works good because its nice and close to the firewall and you can run a shorter line. You may not notice this because there might already be a sensor far an idiot light in there.

first off, how many inches of mercury is it pulling at idle. Then how much is it fluctuating. This could be many different problems.

I have a 69 camaro with a 355 it has a extreme energy comp cam .490 lift, flat tops, msd 6al, roller rockers, edelbrock performer rpm intake, 67 chevy double hump heads ported 3 angle valve job, and a 750 cfm holley double pumper, i have run a best of 12.82 at 108 and i have calculated it to be right around 425 hp and i get about 15 mpg and thats with 3.73s and a muncie no overdrive.

I have a 69 camaro with a 355 it has a extreme energy comp cam .490 lift, flat tops, msd 6al, roller rockers, edelbrock performer rpm intake, 67 chevy double hump heads ported 3 angle valve job, i have run a best of 12.82 at 108 and i have calculated it to be right around 425 hp and i get about 15 mpg and thats with 3.73s and a muncie no overdrive.

I think in 78 or 79 chevy swaped the dipstick to the passenger side you may have the wrong pan. A high volume pump is really not neccesary unless you have an extremely high rpm capaple engine or are running wider than normal bering clearances. These pumps caust hp and can sometimes suck the pan dry. The stock chevy pan is 4 quarts and the filter is one. Morroso makes a nice 7 quart kicked out sump pan.

I think hot rodding is when you take parts and peices from different cars and customize your car

yes you are right i did miss the 305 and 307 whoops. The 302 was introduced in 67 in the brand new z/28. it consisted of a 4 inch bore(same as 350) and a 3 inch stroke(like a 283) It was intended for high performance use and consisted of mostly forged engine internals and a big solid cam. This engine also had the legendary "double hump" heads. The engine was used exclusively in trans am because of the 5 liter limit. GM even made a dual 4 barrel cross ram intake that the public could buy over the counter. 68 and 69 302 blocks have 4 bolt mains and thicker webbing but the 67 only had 2 bolt mains. the code for an original 302 is on the front of the block right under the passenger side head it should say DZ if its a 302. the 305 is simmilar in cubic inch but entirely different. It consists of a 350 crank(3.48 inch strake) and a bore of 3.75. The 302 was a screamer and made immense horsepower for its size but at a very high rpm. GM rated the 302 at 290 hp and 290 tourqe, but i have read that it was more like 375 hp. The 305 is a tourqe motor and makes its power low in the rpm range due to its long stroke.

thats not a stupid question. engines included in the chevy small block family are: 262,265,283,302,327,350,383,and 400 not to be confused with the 402 big block which is totally different

I have posted anew thread on this swap it's called 300ZX v8 breif intructions

This is for a small block chevy swap into the first gen 300zx only. The first thing you must do after you pull the nissan engine is cut out the old engine mounts. They are spot welded in so you will need a torch to heat them and a air chissel, be careful not to burn through the rubber dust covers on the rack and pinion. Next u can set your engine in the engine compartment with a cherry picker and start to get an idea where everything has to go. (chevy engines should have 4 degrees of setback) The engine rubber block mounts should sit about a half inch behind the crossmember in the center of the engine compartment. I purchased a roll of thin alluminum and bent it around the steel i was going to use for the mounts for mock up purposes. I stronly recomend this procedure because you can then take measurements and center the engine and mark where the mounts have to be welded. For my mounts i use 2 1/2 by 2 1/2 inch steel an 1/8 inch thick. You have to put an angle cut and box the top side of the mounts and the height should be somewhere between 9 and 10 inches tall on the tallest side. The overall height intially will be greater because you must cut one end of the tube up the corners about 3 inches and bend them up, then when you get it where you want it you can bend these tabs down and weld them in place(ill try to get some pictures of this sense it is pretty confusing and hard to explane.) The transmition mount is much simpler. If you have an original manual transmition(i dont know if automatics use the same crossmember) Z and you are going to use a manual GM transmition(muncie, saginaw, i dont kno much about the new six speeds or five speeds so i do not know if this will work), get your transmition mount secure and cut off the ridge then runs through the center of it, then get a peice of flat steel about 1/8 inch thick, cut to fit and weld in place. A custom mount is neccessary for this because a stock mount is too tall, my solution was to make two plates and cut about 5 or 6 rectangles of mud flap ruber and zip tie it together, then just drill 2 holes and thread them right into the transmition housing. You may be wondering if the crossmember will line up, it will because the car has three or four different holes to choose from, i moved mine up one hole towards the front of the car. The shifter handle is tricky, you have to cut the end that bolts to the shifter off, and then weld the rest of the stick to it at a 90 degree angle. the stick itself needs a 45 degree angle towards the back off the car and then another bend up. A custom shifter plate may also be neccesary to gain optimum shifter boot location. You will also need an electric fan.(the stock radiator is not up to the task of cooling even a mild v8 engine, i am still in the process of replacing it with something bigger and will post details later) There are sufficient holes on the radiator bracket for mounting. You need to fab some brackets. I removed my shroud off of my car but i suppose you could leave it on if you wanted, I also ran my wiring through one of the existing relays that i was no longer in use. You may be wondering what kind of distrubutor to use and if you can set the engine far back enough. I used an old chevy points distributor with a pertronix electronic conversion. You have to cut a portion of the metal out on the firwall where the two seems come together.(HEI does not fit without extensive modification) If you wish to have power steering you will need to salvage the nissan pump(GM pump would work but may require a regulator as not to blow the seals out of the nissan rack) and fabricate mounts which i did, and mount the resevour, with the pump on the driver side and you will also need a line made. I left the one stamped steal bracket on the pump and fastened that to the auxilery bolt hole on the sbc long style water pump at the very bottom and then fabbed two simple c brackets to the two bolt holes directly underneeth(early chevy engine mount bolt holes). Block huger headers look like they will fit in the engine compartment but i used a pair of early sixties chevy ram horn style manifiolds that exit in the center. Please let me know of any questions you may have, this can be a little confusing. good luck

If you have any questions about this swap just let me know i can help. i can post pictures too if needed.

i hav dun this, just send any questions to me its not that hard dont giv up

i had this same problem on my 85. heres wut u do.get urself a yoke that fits ur transmition then find a drive shaft shop or machine shop and let them get u the nissan 4 bolt style rear yoke that fits a chevy u joint and then they can make u a whole new shaft. this way u can have a stronger shaft with replacable joints, chances r that ur u joints r worn out ne way good luck

i have dun this i can tell u anything u need to know

i have performed a sbc into my 85 300zx, just let me know wut u need to know its not that terribly hard

heres my specs 1985 300zx n/a original 5spd stock 305 sbc with holley carb and points custom sidepipes saginaw 3spd, custom hurst shifter r200 w/ 3.70s

ive dun this to an 85 300zx let me know if u need help

I have succesfully completed this swap with a 85 n/a 300zx and a 305 small block chevy. The car was a former five speed and i used a saginaw three speed i had laying around. Manual transmition is posible but u will need a hydraulic throwout bearing and u will have to midify your shifter handle. Automatic is deffinetally easier but thats no fun. For the engine swap itself i had to make my own mounts out of 2 1/2 by 2 1/2 inch steel wich was not that difficult but time consuming. If anyone has questions about this swap ask me i am happy to give information.