Alf

sounds like you do not have the correct power valve installed or your acelerator pump system is not tuned properly. if the jetting is close, try installing a 5.5 pv then a 4.5 pv and see what happens, 11 inches of vacuum is pretty low. another option is squirters and pump cams. try mashing the gas from a low speed in first gear, if the car goes initially then bogs, you need a larger squirter, if it bogs and then goes, you need a smaller squirter. the pump cams basically just vary the shot of fuel dumped into the carb. when you change the vacuum pod springs you are only tuning the secondary side, if i was you i would try to tune the primary side first and then the secondary. that victor jr. intake probably isn't helping much, i would recomend a performer RPM air gap or another good dual plane that better suits the limited RPM capabilities of the 383. i recomend getting the Holley Carburetor Handbook by Mike Urich. it covers all 4150 and 4160 style carbs in great detail. good luck.

just make sure that the balancer you use coincides with the timing cover. there are two version: driver side timing tab and a centered timing tab, each balancer has the TDC mark in a slightly different location. iv'e seen late model engines each way.

thanks for the replies. i formerly had a stock 305 in my z that had the same carb, distributor, and wires. i figured the carb may not be perfect but it should be in the ballpark. i converted the distributor to the pertronix electronic conversion kit and it ran fine on the 305, but upon tear-down i noticed the magnetic trigger was rubbing on the pickup due to too much advance weight plate play, though the distributor was a rebuilt unit and didnt even have 1000 miles on it, it seemed like they left the clip out that holds the advance plate tight to the shaft. it also has a new borg-warner cap(the one with brass terminals) and a new rotor, the wires had also only been on the 305 for about a month and are Taylor units. the valve adjustment should also be very close if not perfect, since the cam is hydraulic and had already ran in the engine, i ajusted the rockers as i assembled the engine. i did a compression test and all cylinders show at least 150psi. i thought that maybe the coil was not getting enough voltage, but a jumper wire from my batery to the coil showed no improvement. the plug gap is set at .35, and i checked the firing order more than once and it checks out ok. i also tried different plug wires on the two problem cylinders and still no help. the engine also does not consume a drop of oil, so the ring seal must be descent.the main reason i posted was just that it seems so odd that only two random cylinders would be black and sooty but none other, it sounds like a deffective part somewhere along the line to me. maybe the electronic conversion, or cap?

i have a recently refreshed .30 over 307, and i am having a few problems getting it to run smooth. here are the specs: 69 307 block, low miles, .30 over, cast flat tops, stock rods and crank, new rod and main bearings and timing chain, the bottom end is not new, but looked very clean. i never pulled the cam, which was stupid, since i've heard 307's wipe cams more frequently than other sbc's. it has a set of 882 heads, 1.94/ 1.50 in. valves, slight cleanup work done by myself. it has a performer intake and a 650 holley spread bore double pumper. the main problem is a horrible stumble. the engine idles fine, and feels fine when cruising, but if suddenly floored it breaks up and does not clear out. i've tracked it down to the ignition, the # 1 and # 4 cylinder's plugs are black and sooty, but not wet, all other plugs check out fine. could this be a wipped cam lobe? faulty ingnition? help is apreciated. thanks.

300ZX v8 breif instructions thats a quick overview of the project, i wish i knew how to post pics. if anyone wants or needs pictures i can send them through e-mail, just let me know.

hey jeremy, ive been home since about the 17th of december. if you want to come check that engine out you can come by on mondayor any time next week, i should be in the shop working.

Hey, i just thought i would let you guys know about my long trip in my hybrid Z. after completing my first semester at college in kansas, it was time for the journey back home to New Jersey. last summer i was given an 85 300zx that had cought on fire in the early 90's and sat eversince. after many attempts to fix melted wiring and get the v6 running smooth, i decided to try and install an sbc instead. i figured i could take it to school with me and work on it. it turned out i only had about 3 months to finish the entire project and i completed it just in time. we decided to tow the car out since it had not been tested. when i arived i imidietly started fixing all the little problems. anyways, the car performed flawlesly. i was expecting at least one problem, but there was none. and even with the stock 3.70 gears and a 1:1 saginaw 3spd transmision, i still recorded 20mpg on one tank of gas, the junkyard 305 did manage to burn 7qts of oil during the 1300 mile trip. so if anyone is looking for help on a v8 z31 i can help cause my system seams to have proven itself. right now the car is receiving a little clean up work in the engine bay, and a new engine and cooling system. if anyone needs a 3.0 nissan engine and 5 spd tranny and lives in the south jersey area, ill let them go real cheap. well, i'm looking forward to the trip back and will post my progress on the car. thanks for all the help.

nope, its just like you have new lifters again. david vizard built a 350 with a stock chevy 929 cam that was in good used condition and fitted it with lifters "reclaimed" in that manner.

vizard said sand them in a figure 8 pattern with 100 grit emory paper. do about 6 figure 8's and then turn the lifter a 1/4 turn and continue

it depends on the year of the 327, the date code is usually on the rear of the block on the bell housing flange. early 327's are small journal engines, which means that the crank journals are smaller than the 350's. the 327 changed to a large journal engine in 68. other than that all parts will interchange. the bore on both engines is 4" the only difference is the crankshaft stroke(3.25 for a 327 and 3.48 for a 350)

yep, just make sure it spins freely if you have the heads off you can check the top rings, but if not you can hook up a vaccum guage when it is running to check.

that sounds similar to a z31 engine mount, except it doesnt mount on the frame. its a circular rubber/metal disc with a stud on both sides.

why don't you try hooking up a different guage, it just may be giving faulty readings. other than that the way you described your engine, it does't need a high volume oil pump, a stock replacement would do just fine.

those 305 heads are going to KILL that engine, get other ones if at all posible. as for the 305 balancer, i thought the 305 was externally balanced, that would mean that the balancer will have a cast in weight on the balancer hub, but the 350 is internally balanced, they are not compatible.

any input on this? who wants to see what just may be the first turbo SBC Z31? i know i sure do, project should start after christmas, i'll keep you posted.

i cant afford that right now but thanks for the offer. i will probably just grab a used one for a few hundred. thanks for the info i'll let you all know how it goes. (it might be a while)

thats good to know, i guess i've narrowed it down to the hx35. that would be great to get the turbo from you but i probably don't have enough money for a new one. what are you asking? i read that the hx35 is a non internal wastegated version and the hx35w is, is this true? what is the wastegete set at on these turbos, and is it adjustable? i only want 7psi or near there.

i am planning on using a holset hy35 or a hx35 on a 350 small block chevy, any advise for the swap? anything i should know about those turbos?