makaofox

Oh you lucky bastard lol. I love the rota aleica's! If I was you I would have went 25mm offset to make it an even -30. When I measured them it looked like a 27mm would be nice with a 0+ offset wheel, then again im not totally sure. I ordered my 30mm spacer today, so I will find out by next week. Wait lets get this straight, the bleeder points DOWN, I installed it correctly. I called edan and he says even on his z which he tracks, He removes his caliper turns it upside down, puts it on the rotor and bleeds it and it functions well. My question was to him if it was possible to have the bleeder to point upwards and retain the parking brake bracket but he said he could not make that happen with out it being expensive. So Looks like im going to have to use his methods of bleeding, however on a track day one must be prepared to do such a method.

Mustang forums would be too broad, you would have to search alot lol. I also asked edan, I plan on buy a 27mm spacer with studs on ebay being that I want my wheels with 0+ offset, which will give me a negative offset= zg flares. Im currently working with a wheel shop locally that should help me out. 15mm should be fine depending on your offset, on my 15x7 0+ it looked like 15mm would be just shy of clearing the caliper. I will shave the calipers if I have to too make them fit. Im going for XXR 002 15x9 0+ on all for corners with either 205/50/15 or 225/50/15 all around. One thing I didnt ask edan and I didnt get around to it but was brought up by david and other forums is the fact that the bleeder points are pointing downward instead of upward. I havent put fluid in the system as im waiting for my 1in wilwood mc but im not too sure how this will turn out. If anything I will put up an update on how to set them up properly facing upward.

^ I will measure it when I can today. I know a 15in can fit but the offset will be custom and again it falls back on the design of the wheel. I wanted to go 16in regardless but if 16x9.5 ccw's gave you trouble im not sure lol.

Here is the write up: http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/104113-silver-mine-motors-rear-disk-conversion-kit-write-up/page__gopid__973522#entry973522

^ Thats exactly why I like this kit lol. I have coils but im sure you meant davids, and those seem to be the arizona z coils? Still need to drop in the motor (which is being rebuilt to stock spec) and install the gas tank before I can test out these brakes.

This is a write up I made, I was given permission by edan to post this. Silver Mine Motors Rear Conversion Kit This kit includes everything you will need to install into your z. Some situations might need some modification that will be on, YOU, the owner. Edan is the owner of Silver Mine Motors, which produces fabulous products for the s30 chassis as well as other models. He mostly sells brake products but also sells some suspension components. His products are cheapest and he does his best to keep it that way. If you happen to find a brake kit cheaper, send him the link and he will match it! Edan has amazing customer service and responds to his emails/calls quickly. Check out his website to order your kit! http://www.silverminemotors.com/main.sc Facts about this kit: -You should really upgrade to a 15/16 master cylinder OR the more available 1inch master cylinder. This is important if you already upgraded your front brakes. You should also consider a proportioning valve. -My 15inch panasport wheels (15x6) WILL NOT FIT. The minimum is a 15inch wheel HOWEVER it will depend on the WIDTH and OFFSET of the wheel. In consideration is also the design of the wheel. Some spoke design might be to concave, and hit against the caliper. Too much of an inward design will hit the caliper, be sure to test fit the wheels. -First things first, I have a 76 280z so other years might differ slightly. Tools you will need: 19mm: wrench. 17mm: wrench. 14mm: wrench. 10mm: wrench. Sawzall: cut backing plate. Screw driver. Cotter pins: Have a couple. They don’t need to be large, medium or smaller ones work fine. Rubber mallet or 5lb mallet: Optional to beat out your drums. PB Blaster: This is your friend use this A LOT. Needle nose plier. Getting started: 1-First off, more than likely your drums are stuck onto your car. So use the mallet to beat the drum off the stub axel. If it breaks off (the drum) it is ok, the parts are not going to be used any more. 2-Once the drum is off, you will be looking at the brake shoes and springs, as well as the cylinder holding the parking brake cable. 3-Behind the backing plate are the hard lines for the parking brake. These are no longer needed and must be removed. The only line needed is the hardline from the main braking system. Be careful removing the parking brake hard lines, and then remove the parking brake cable, save the bolt that holds it in place. Push the cable aside, as it will be needed later on. 4-With the screw driver or needle nose, remove the springs carefully of the brake shoes and it will come off. 5-Once the brake shoes are off you will be able to see 4 bolts that are holding the backing plate in place. Remove those carefully. They are not in the best position, so they will be prone to stripping if you aren’t careful. 6-Once the backing plate is loose it is now ready to cut. If it isn’t loose, hit it a few times with the mallet until it is loose. 7-Once loosed, CAREFULLY use the sawzall to cut the backing plate in two sections. It is best to cut in a “V†shape on both sides and bend the plate repeatedly to snap off. If done carefully, you should hit nothing and it should come off fairly easily. Again be CAREFUL not to hit the stub axel or the parking brake cable, or even your brake line hose. 8-After the backing plate is removed, you should have all the pieces of the old braking system in a pile and ready for the new kit to go in. 9-The kit is very easy to install, I recommend ordering the stainless steel brake lines. 10-The mounting bracket should have the “silver mine†logo facing toward the differential and should be mounted opposite of your strut assembly. Use the 3 bolts with lock washers and bolt it in place with the 17mm wrench. 11-With the bracket in place, put the rotor on and use the lug nuts to hold it in place. 12-Put the caliper in place with the pads in it already and use the 2 bolts to bolt in the caliper, 19mm wrench. If you have the stainless steel line, screw that into the caliper before you bolt it in the bracket. Then screw it into the hardline. 13-Now the parking cable is ready to be installed. The cable is held on a bracket to avoid rubbing against the driveshaft. If necessary, remove the bracket to obtain proper length and install the parking brake cable, using the previous bolt to hold it in with a cotter pin. -With all that done, you are ready to drive! Go to an open area with no traffic to test it out. Special thanks to Edan at Silver Mine Motors for providing a great kit and pictures. Also a special thanks to David Palermo for providing great pictures. Pictures now:

I got it down and im writng a write up. Should be up in a few.

Ahh thats good! Well thats for the pics david! Your pic really helped! Had the bracket inside out basically so it made the caliper to close. Fixed that and everything went smooth all I have to do is hook up my cable, but its too short at the moment. Gotta find my way to make it longe by an inch and then im ready for the passenger side. Oh and did I mention on the passenger side I bent and broke my hardline! -___- its ook it wasnt enough to mess it up just need to flare it and put a spare screw in it and its golden. Hoping the pass side goes smoother now that I know what too do. Have a question on pad contact though, it seems the pad opposite of the piston side isnt seated well? Im hoping when I brake and it "breaks" in that it will be ok. I will update that concern when I get there.

^ Lol Yea im a fail... The brackets are the same but I had them on the wrong way! And Lusboy I dont think ill have this car running until march, SO unless you can wait that long I can tell you then. Im going to flip my bracket it and see how it is, I really wish edan gave directions. He has been helpful but sometimes its easier to see what you need to do. I will come back with pics of my results in a few!

Well got the driver side rear bracket to go in the proper location. Now there is a bigger problem. I bolted the bracket and I put the rotor on, now when I put the caliper in, it doesnt fit at all with the rotor. Im missing something here? Edan helped me out and showed me how the pics of it installed are supposed to be. However im working on the driver side and hit this bump?

Thats interesting, I didnt get to the left side. The right side has to be at 3 hmmm. I will look at it in the morning, I have my bracket in the upper left, right and lower right. I cant bolt the caliper as the strut hits. So should I move my bracket too upper right, lower right, and lower left? That would put it more toward 3 o clock. I will have to report back in the morning, and ill take a pick if what im talking about. fyi those bracket bolts are a PAIN while the hub is in the way.

Thanks, pm'd him, hope to hear from him soon. Looks like other memembers I talked too are also in need of this info.

Well basically as my topic states, I have a question. Recently I purchased the silver mine rear kit stage 4 from Edan. It looks like an awesome kit. I already have the 4x4 front that I just installed. (the pass side rotor needs to be shaved a bit becaue it has a high point but other than that its all in good order). The rear driver side I already cut the back plate (that was pretty easy) but im puzzled as to how to hook up my caliper. 1: Where do I bolt the adaptor (in which holes) 2: how do I hook up the parking brake, without hitting the shock tube (with the caliper). I bolted it in and the caliper hits the shock and is no where near the parking brake attatchment. So in essence is there a write up or any pics of this kit installed? I searched and im getting back mostly modern motorsports kit, or the other various kits like the 240sx,280zx or maxima rears. Other results touched on the topic stating you most likely will have fitment issues with 15in wheels but thats about it. No pics or write up on this conversion, I figure its simple and im just seeing it at the wrong angle. I would appreciate any help or direction. I have some pics, to help show my situation: ^ Driver side, looks soo pretty. ^ SS line is serious business! ^ Passenger side, with the disk that needs to be cut a bit to even it out. ^ Passenger side, it already had ss lines but they were weak sauce for the new set up. ^ The old icky front brakes. Gotta say they are pretty nice, but they dont compare to the 4x4 calipers and z31 vented disks. ^ The devils work lol. This sucker has to be cut in order to fit the rear disks. It wasnt that bad. ^ All the nonsense of the driver side rear. Those drum covers put up a SERIOUS ass battle! I hammered the driver side so hard it split in half! The passenger side came off like butter. ^ Passenger side hub, with the back plate still on it. Hammer it a few times to loosen it off the hub and then cut away with a sawzal VERY CAREFULLY. ^ The rear goodies! This kit is serious. Its expensive but worth it! Edan is a very good guy. ^ Calipers come off a ford mustang I think, the year is 2005-2010? ^ss brake lines, my rubber ones were shot! Thanks!

HOLY %$## 345/35?! Jesus! I really cant wait to see them on the z!

^ NICE Keep it up man! I like it alot. (not the stockies their wack lol)With some sexy wheels, she will be spot on. Im not one for the ratrod look, yuta pulled it off well. Personally on my 280z im going to slam it, put nice wheels, and do the 240z bumpers with upgraded brakes all around. Doing that will not give me enough to fix up the body and paint it, so it will have to stay the way it is for a bit. That will put me in the kind of "ratrod" like style but not on purpose lol. I like all styles, if it is executed well, props to you. Also curious on the coilover set up. My z has coilovers and is lower than most but im going to switch them out when I get a chance too. Keep it up!

I concur lol. Seen it and heard it in person. His z is SICK! My inspiration for when I finally get a z! (which I hope is before this winter)

Funny thing is I just discovered your website today! Good luck, im in the market for a 240z or early 260z and might swap something in down the line. I hate!!!!! Electrical work lol. Just curious why dont you also sell harnesses for the Vg, 1jz, 2jz, or non datsun motors? Im sure the RB and the jz would bring the most interest. I know down the line I want to go VG30et, just to keep it simple.

^ Lol! That is too funny, I live in Elizabeth nj bordering hillside. Next time I go defintely have to hit up san sebastian :)I was going to spend my summer there and bring my z to my grandmother's house but that wouldnt work haha. Friiends 240z with triple webers! Mine again

^ Nice thats good to hear. His pics are always awesome. First person I really saw take the z to that kind of limit.

Yea im part of zlegends and I live in nj haha! Post up pics! I never really knew how big the z scene is there but I know there are a few. Most are closer to the west coast? Good luck with the fuel pump.

Nice! She looks good man! Shes clean. Yea I stopped complaining about crappy roads, its a world wide thing lol. When I head there im usually by caguas, and I never seen a datsun just 1 300zx 2+2. Next time I go back I definitely got to check out the z scene. Im still on there email listing for the z club down there lol.

Oh ok so is that yuta's current look? I honestly prefer how it was at first. With the black Hayashi Racing 505's it just looked alot better. Yuta and Miguel's z's are inspirations. I still prefer yuta's old wheels but hope the paint job makes it look better. Any updates on his car on any other forum or anything?

Yea pr is ridiculous lol. I think they contracted the nj people to do there roads all crappy haha! But if your going to slam any car you have to think about it really hard and choose to take the risk. Everyone in pr chooses to ride low, I plan to dd my low s30 when I build it. Eventually you learn where you can and cant go and basically plan alternate routes or take the long way. In my z I scrap almost everywhere but with practice I dont scrape at all.

Amazing pics from JCCS man!Thanks for identifying the TE37V's lol. In another post a 3zc member with his blue 240z (kennymonster) posted but no one knew those wheels. All the cars are gorgeous! Why cant any of these kind of events come to the east coast T_T.

Thats miguel soria's 260z personally the BEST looking z stateside. There are a ton of amazing looking one's for sure but in the slammed category he wins hands down. Lets face it if yuta akaishi painted his 240z that would also be in the 10 ten sexiest stateside s30's. Even all rat rod like his looks dope. But I applaud miguel's efforts He is certainly (amoung others on here) an inspiration, that is why im selling my z32ttz and getting an s30 This thread is filled with so much win!