makaofox

^ You wouldnt be the first but it certainly isnt well documented. I know of specialty z's 280zx with the vg30dett. Having had a z32tt and getting a 280z, the first issue will be clearance. The vg is a wide motor, and you might have issues with the strut towers. Second most likely will be a combo of the height and oilpan clearance. Once you get passed that I think setting up the intercooler piping might be tough but the swap should be doable. The worst thing is you will have alot of weight up front, being compact I would hope the motor wont throw off the steering too much.

If I were you, I would get a motor for the gs. For several reason 1 is that its newer, it has more space for anything like girls or more importantly food lol. My actual main reason is that in bad weather whether it is rain, sleet, snow, ice do you really want to be driving a 2400lbs car that crushes like a tin can? The gs is a tank and frankly if someone crashes into a gs who cares you will get another. But if someone crashes into your z, its done all that hard work wasted and its not easy finding a replacement. I plan to DD my 280z but my 280z has much much much more reinforement than a 240z and I put a 10pt roll cage. You also have to remember the difficulties of a 30+ year old car, sometimes it will say hey phuck you I dont want to go anywhere and not start. Basically have the gs as your dd and save alot more to get yourself a project s30. Not saying 240z's arent DD material because they sure as hell can be but you have a good choice. I dont know where you live but over here people dont give a crap about your car and will hit it purposely to fit into the parking spot, or swing the door wide open and hit your car because they are so FAT.

First off, cosmetics is real simple. You want to look like austins zed no problem. All you gotta do is buy 240z turn signals (perhaps on ebay someone may have them) or source them out if possible in Ireland. Its pretty simple but you might have to get a new air dam that has the 240z slots to house the turn signals. The wiring should be the same or similar. Try searching the site it has plenty of resources. That z looks magnificent, I would buy it and spend some money on the parts you need. You can easily sell your old parts as well. Plenty of people have done what you have, get the turn signals, the air dam, and you should be set Hopefully a 260z owner with the conversion can chime in. Im going to do the same for my 280z, all I need is the air dam and turn signals.

Sexiness, cant wait to see more progress

^ I purchased the 280z version but when I installed mine the left side does have a bit of space and the right has a bit of a gap. I had to trim the right side to fit in. The kit so far is good as I just finished the front, everything went in fine. I did have to trim the front control arm bushing a bit but the front went in fine. The rack and pinion is my only concern, I will be getting to the rear now and see how that goes.

So gorgeous! Keep it up man, im loving where this is going.

The hartley is also on my fantasy build list. The specs are just amazing, and the weight of the motor is even more baffling. Would be awesome if they turbo'd it! But at the cost of $30k, you can find a nice vr38dett and somehow fashion a monster z from that!!!

^ Excellant tip! Actually looking at my rack and pinion it looks like they replaced it previously because it looks in far better condition than some of the other bushings. It looks like they replaced some and others they didnt. Found an excellent source that did a great job at the rear subframe bushings. Alanticz is also a good site. I will search for the other threads that I have found, but alot are dead pics.

Hey guys looked around and didnt find one solid thread about a whole entire poly urethane bushing install. Alot of the information is scattered, broken links, pics are dead, and apart from being scattered they focused on one aspect rather than the whole install. So im just curious is there a write up of someone doing a full poly urethane bushing install to their z? I have a 76 280z, so I know there are a few differences in other models. Any help would be appreciated, I know its not a super hard job but its nice seeing pics and reading about someones experience or any tricks they found making the install easier.

Nice! Jesus, that exhaust sounded insanely good. Would like to know the details of his exhaust even if his z is stock. I liked this vid, more exhaust videos should be formatted this way lol.

DAM YOU TEASE! T__________T I really wish someone would have made it TT. Looks good though! Still wouldnt mind the build thread lol.

WIN!!!!!!!!!!!!!! TT SR?! Build thread?

Darrel I did exactly what you did, and the difference speaks for itself. Like I said for that assortment packet and a packet of E clips I paid less then $10. While on ebay its $14 just for the bushings shipped to your house. Its a very satisfying mod.

I brought an end bushing on ebay and the assortment pack of brass bushings at Advanced auto parts. The assortment pack cost me $5 and 2 of them fit perfectly, BUT you do have to mill them to fit the pin. You can buy another pack that has a pin already in it with the bushings, but I wasnt sure if they would fit. I also brought an assortment of "E" clips for $3. I broke one of the brass bushings by mistake (How beats me but probably from the bit I used with the hot and cold) But when I had it in and the pin fit, HOLY MOSES with the addition to the end bushing the shifter feel was NIGHT AND DAY! Granted my z isnt running and the tranny is out of the car but feeling it out there was a nice feel to it in gear and a nice feel while shifting. For less than $10 you can have such a simple and worth while fix!

Oh good! That is how mine is set up lol, thought it was just common sense to have it that way? Good info to have though.

Dan! I remember your z at streetwars! It was nice meeting you and your wife (or girlfiend?). I at the time had the super white 300zxtt with the tints and black interior with the tsw snettertton wheels. I hope to see this build finished! I usually just see your z at streetwars since you said you were close to it. I just picked up a 76 280z in oct . Cant wait to see some progress.

Got any pics of that? Im pretty sure, if im reading it right, mine are on the correct way.

Im curious for these bushings as well. I was just looking at them the other day. I would want to buy them since my piece is a bit worn. Anyone have a link for the shifter pin and end bushing? Any upgraded end bushing? I saw a link on ebay it was like $14! Im guessing that one wouldnt be a good idea to make out of brass as well?

Oh! Good too know, im thinking about doing the loan program from autozone. That will help make up my mind lol.

I like the $30 tool better haha, you are right though. Unless you are a track junkie, you shouldnt have to bleed your system often. Every 2 years would be nice or in extreme heat like those weeks its a contant 100*+. This makes the job a whole lot more bearable.

Hmmm that tool looks amazing, but at $80? Seems to me like it would do a good job, even though the bleeder is downwards, because it is bringing the air up to the MC. I have been looking at tools like this to make it easier. Still havent installed my wilwood but when I do Im going to try a tool like this out and see. This brand looks great though.

Nice! Definitely fast for a basically stock vg. Good job cant wait to see it put some more power!

^ Nice! Good luck man! Just got in my Wilwood 1in MC. Hopefully when everything is running I can gauge how this set up is with the 1in.

Luseboy 15x8 will be perfect! And man should have sprung for the -25 lol, no spacer needed! But I thought about it and rota is coming out with awesome wheels but the xxr+tires would equal the same thing as the set of alecia's lol. Cant wait to see those pics though! Thanks guys, glad it helped! Once I saw it I knew I had to include it, its very detailed. That tool kit isnt that expensive, and comes with more than what youll need but well worth it for the future.

^^ Yea I am going with xxr 002 in red, it will be lound but down the line im going to powder coat them. I cant do 7 or 8 I needed wider lol. If I could I would have done 10! ^ David did some digging and found a wonderful mustang site that states a how to. My Silvermine motors rear calipers: Mustang 05-10 calipers. DO AT EVERY BRAKE PAD CHANGE. Here it is: http://www.stangmafia.com/forum/f59/replacing-rear-brake-pads-6541/ Here is how I replaced the rear brake pads on my 2007 GT500. Here is a list of tools and supplies used for the install: 1. 3/8" drive ratchet handle with extensions as needed 2. Metric Sockets: 13mm standard 3. Torque Wrench - 3/8" drive 4. Brake caliper tool Notes: Prior to starting I had washed the wheels to reduce the dust and wore a particle mask to avoid breathing in the dust (nasty stuff). I also released the parking brake prior to starting. Remove the two guide pin bolts with a 13mm socket. Then remove and secure the caliper with a short bungee cord. See the fifth picture below for a suggested anchor point. I understand you don't need to remove the lower bolt to replace the pads; perhaps just loosen enough to allow the caliper to swing out. This way the caliper is more stable when resetting the piston. But I removed both bolts when I replaced my pads. Here is the caliper tool I used to reset the piston; got it at Harbor Freight for about $20. I used the #5 adapter plate, whose pins fit the keyed notches on the piston surface. You have to turn the piston in a clockwise direction while applying forward pressure with the tool. The backing plate on the tool pushes against the opposite side of the caliper while turning the handle. It can take substantial force to turn the pistons; wearing mechanics gloves while turning the handle helps. My hands are still aching. Here's what the piston looks like when compressed back into the caliper. The piston must be oriented so the key slots are as shown here to fit into an alignment pin on the back of the inboard brake pad (the pin is circled on the outboard pad below). Remove the old brake pads and spring clips. Assemble in reverse with new pads and spring clips then replace the caliper and snug down the guide pin bolts. See notes below on the application of caliper grease. There is a flat spot on the opening of the guide pins that must be aligned with a flat edge on the caliper mounting flange as shown here. Torque down the guide pin bolts to 24 lb-ft in the following order: * RH caliper - tighten top bolt and then the bottom bolt * LH caliper - tighten bottom bolt and then the top bolt Here's what the rear brake looks like all assembled. I didn't apply any caliper grease at the time, but I intend to go back and apply some synthetic caliper grease to the areas of the pads (back surface only) that come into contact with the caliper and piston. Caution: After servicing the brakes, be sure to pump the brakes as many times as needed to make sure they are firm and effective before putting the car into gear.