makaofox

I agree v8's ALL sound the same. Only Ferrari's have a unique v8 sound because its 60 degree or something crazy. I love the jz sound. I would have went vq but bang for buck its jz>vq.

This is true. For me not so much blinded but its very vague to see at night. You cant truly tell the distance or where the light is coming from. So pro is you see everything, con is you see everything lol. Still for me $25 was worth it, and I hardly drive the z at night.

Hybridz motto...I'll MAKE it fit lol. Yea all this snow is brutal, but once it melts itll give me a chance to mock things up. Gives me a chance to also collect more parts. If it doesn't fit no big deal really.

BEST replacement mirror ever. You literally can see all around you. Once you screw it in its solid. http://www.pepboys.com/product/details/1070279/1036/accessories/mirrors/rear_view_mirrors/?quantity=1 Its $25 you cant beat that. Ive been happy with it, only issue depending on your seats, it sits close to your head but its worth it.

im not really sure but it actually might sit behind the strut tower. The adapter is 3inches if I change that it should fit IF I run into issues. I'll def post pics when its in the bay. With all the snow I cant drop it in the shell.I personally like the log style its supposed to spool much faster low+middle end compared to tubular.Tubular just looks badass.

Treadstone exhaust manifold. It was pretty light weight and compact since its a log. Holset He351cw and custom ffim with gte tb. Hopefully it fits I measured and it is pretty close but it should clear. Aiming for pure response.

The mount was pretty much a plate with a long curved tube to the stock s30 cross member mount. I started to make the mounts then it started to snow on me lol. After new years going to start it again and then take pics!

The ebay and beta make nice mounts. Any other homemade ones? My buddy made a few mounts that bolted from the stock 240z cross member. It was really different and wish I took a picture at the time.

Well since this is the 2jz mount thread anyone care to post pics of various mounts they have made or found on the web? Im about to make my mounts and just took some ball park measurements and its pretty darn close to the stock mounts. Monday I plan to drop in the motor and get an idea of what I can do.

Figured id update this after a year, I pulled the trigger and slowly will build a 2jz z. I purchased a 94 2jzge from a supra with ecu and uncut harness but no trans. I have a holset he351cw and I plan to get around 400rwhp with a super quick spool. Dropped the z33 trans idea just because its too expensive at nearly 2k your 1/3 from a v160 lol. So sticking with the w58 and replacing it when needed. Sticking to my r180 welded diff till she blows, then aiming for either r200 with z31 axles or the Subaru r180. Haltech ps500 ecu is also what I planned to go with. Havent done much lately, ive been collecting parts and I want to do it all at once. Have to clean up the block and put arp studs, TT headgasket and redo piston rings and redo the head. It will be a slow build but ive built the z to the point all im upgrading is the fuel system and drop in the motor.

12cm^2 is abooooout 70ar but yea holset is iffy lol. 16, 19cm is like 1.08 they are diesel turbos so they have huge housings. The 12cm spools dumb fast, the HE351CW is dirt cheap, all you have to do is clock the intake side a bit and your golden. Mines came with the elbow that's v-band it does have that 3-5/8in which is silly but a 4in vband clamp still works. Having the elbow im just going to reduce it to 3in exhaust.

I like it! did you cut off the t4 and weld the t3 or did you weld the t3 on top of the t4 flange? I wanted to go ebay but 120 is kind of sketchy lol. I saw the cx racing mani which is 11ga but its $500, which is steep but looks heavy duty. I also am running a holset, he351cw.

Don't know yet haven't installed them yet. I left them at a friends shop and most likely will get them Monday. However the 15x9 -30 in the rear did rub with the toyo t1 225/50. I think because I didn't cut enough of the quarter panel and I also have a different suspension setup. I cut the panels some more and its a lot better but the 17x9.5 is -20 should be the exact same set up wise.

^ Sexy! Havent updated in awhile but the z is running great. I just upgraded my wheel set up to a 17x9.5 -20 with toyo r1r's 235/40 all around.

I completely agree tony. Essentially to me Z's aren't worth flipping. I believe its a car purely for having the experience to restore/build one and of course owning a s30. Just like in one of the current threads of a budge resto to flip...not worth it. If its an American muscle car sure you will get big bucks but anything else wont yield the same. However I believe the US 280z has more value than a 260z, it just seems that the 260z is worthless lol. Like I said if you are getting a low vin z it should be for the experience and I guess if its low enough bragging rights. Other wise not worth restoring to flip. Only you will know its low vin unless you tell people.

Very cool! Yea lynne has a dealership up here and it cool. He has some neat painting of z car's. But I dont think that is the #13 guy. I have heard of the "basement tour" before, maybe I should head up there and check it out And for posting purposing to not thread jack I think a low vin 240z is 500 and lower, hell having 999 would be pretty cool too lol. Vins to me dont matter if you find a low vin z but it needs 50k to get it fully restored all out verses a 75 280z 300k+ 150k miles that is very clean(meaning not a rust bucket)...I mean the choice seems logical. No one is going to know its low vin unless you tell them or they look.

Hmmm not sure? I saw him twice at NYZCC events. He's an elderly gentleman, so not sure if he still would own the dealerships if he has. The 13 z is that mustard color, now its restored to running condition.

Ive seen 13 which is the first z sold in the states. Ive also seen 32, 29 and a few low vin others in a guys warehouse. Here in NJ.

Agree I can pull the ebrake and its fine. Still want to adjust it a bit more, as Dan said its at minimum.I want it just a little tighter Ive been driving about 150 miles with the new set up Front: Toyota 4x4's z31 rotor, Rear SMM cross drilled rotors and Wilwood 1inch BMC. Holy crap is it awesome! Its VERY well balanced, I can stomp on the brakes and stop in a straight line. I have a proportioning valve and where its set is pretty darn good. Stops quick and hard, definietly what I wanted from this kit. However to achieve that while having the wilwood bmc you MUST adjust your pushrod from the brake booster, or else you will get sme delayed braking.

Been awhile since my last update. Brought a working tachometer for the z and that greatly helped getting the z running properly. I had a timing issue, which wasnt that hard to fix. Got the car registered and on the road about 2 weeks ago. Has 125miles on it already....and then slave cylinder took a poop on me and left me about 10min from my house. Had to get towed and actually had parts in the trunk to repair it. But the part is a cheapo slave and just slapped it on to drive it briefly. I ordered a Stainless steel clutch line hose for $25, a slave cylinder with a 5year warranty for $30 and purchased 2 new front 91 4runner v6 calipers since mine started to leaak. Adjusted the push rod on my booster since the wilwood mc is different from stock and drive the car around the block again first time today. WOW what a HUGE difference that adjustment to the brakes made. I stop on a DIME now, its awesome! After driving it for 125mi the car handles and feels great so far. Welded diff is interesting at times lol, but feels really good and I even think im getting about 18mpg even with all the breakin driving and no emissions crap.

Super revival! Been looking around and im curious I havent found my answer. So Looking at the z31 hubs, it is pentagonal shaped. My 76 280z front hub is round. I already have the 4x4 setup, so upgrading the hub is as simple as getting the 5lug hub+rotor and possibly a bigger spacer. My real question is looking at the z32 hubs (which are also round like the 280z hubs) are they compatible with the 280z, while using the z31 or z32 5 lug rotor? Assuming I still use the 30-35mm spacer? Or will the design just not work like it will with the z31 hub and rotor? Not sure how much bigger the hub and rotor of the z32 is compared to the z31 or even my 280z. Any info would be cool. Also di the po ever find out which inner and outter bearing he used during the install (s30 or z31)?

^ Great info nigel, didnt know that. Ian as far as performance. Compared to stock, I wouldnt know, never drove it stock. On a 240z I have and it doesnt compare to mine. I still have to tweak it like crazy, still havent found my sweet spot for braking. seems to be braking a hair later than it should. Didnt adjust it all the way from the MC when I was installing the kit.

Thanks! It doesnt seem to cover the whole disc I agree, but its not wasting a whole disc either. Coverage is pretty good. Weight wise, anything and everything will be heavier than stock. So weight wise I would say maybe 4lbs more than the stock caliper? Not 100% sure, didnt weigh either of the two. Only used the hand test lol.

^ Thanks man, paper works slowing me down. Cant wait to register it for the spring! Yea Im debating whether or not to get it recertified. I think this year I want to just drive it and then next year get it ready for some track time. Its a pretty beefy cage, so im hoping ill have no issues.

Well now that work is over and the semester is also over, I can get back to working on the z some more. Havent done much with the z, started the car up yesterday and has a lumpy idle. At times it jumps 300-500 rpm for a sec then dies down. With a faulty tach not sure how low it dips. Im sure once I drive it on a daily basis it will iron out. But I ordered new NGK spark plug wires, and that should come in on the 27th. Going to order cap and rotor as well, just to be safe. Had some spare time and I was sick and tired of hitting my head on the roll cage. So I cut it out and just left the rear hoop. Eventually im thinking about adding a 1 3/4in piping for the upper roof but angle it at a height that wont bonk my head and possibly run the rest of the cage through the dash. Also had some difficulty with a front sway bar that came with the car. Since it came with the car and not on the car, I have no clue if its even for the z. So I purchased a Summit racing sway bar for $194 and should get that on the 27th as well. Im probably going to scrap the old sway bar since its aluminum, but wasted $20 on 28mm bushings :/ So cut it all out and shed some SERIOUS weight. And then proceeded to unbolt the rest of the cage to grind it down and repaint it. All Done and reinstalled. SO much more room. Confusing sway bar Looks more of a rear than a front, so ive been told. Browsing around and a possible idea for a diff mount to prevent clunking. Since ill have extra sway bar endlink bushings, im definitely going to try this mod. And me clowing around I want to have a beanie that says this. I already have a place that might be able to do it, just waiting on a price. Guess after the holidays. Datsun Sun: "Oh stop it you" Just something to look it from november ^ Notice it says my name I always get a kick out of it lol. ^ Fixed the exhaust also, it has MUCH better fitment now. Thats all for now until I get my parts in next week where ill have new pics of the exhaust and spoiler. Also forgot to mention my locks all work now! Went to a locksmith and he was an awesome dude! Took out my hatch lock, gave it to him $26 and boom done. But had a difficulty that the door locks have an extra tumbler. No biggie, 5min with the door locks and boom he did it again. Now I have proper working locks, and windows that roll up with my pinky :thumbsup: