boostin280zx

That's the same one I have, $76 shipped on eBay

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well ive just decided to start working on this project again about a month ago. it was running for awhile and made a few trips out to the track but i just never had time to finish it how i want it. I used the r32 crossmember and a maxima oil pan. The front sump conversion is easy. the sumps are the same, it just bolts towards the front of the block. you just need to drill and tap the bolt holes that hold the sump and drill a bigger hole about 2" up into the block till you hit the oil passage that goes to the pump. I tried spacing the sway bar down and denting the front of the pan in as much as i could but it will still will hit the sway bar, the easiest way is to just to notch the pan. i finally notched mine last weekend.

video of it running. electric speedo and everything wired up and working. Boost by gear now with the AVC-R. I stopped working on this for a few months becuase i bent a valve and broke a guide when i was playin around in the neighborhood. The 4.08 gears are a little short for the t-5 tranny. Just tryin to find some time to put one of my other heads on it and get the i/c piping made.

I got a 240sx shell for free in October 2008. A few days later i crashed my 280. I started doin this swap a couple days after that. Here are some pics of the progress so far. Well first off heres the 280 the 240s new paint primer and paint front sump conversion motor in and running . pics of all the clearances suspension interior

I don't know what would be wrong with the CAS. I took the dizzy off with the harness still pluged up and powered up the car. I slowly turned the rotor and it fired the coil 6 times and the injectors clicked every full turn.

How does the ecu know to retard the timing under boost? Is it the amount of airflow through the AFM or does that just let the ecu know to richen up the mixture?

I'm trying to figure out why the spark advance won't change when i rev the engine. I have done the l28et swap before but didn't have this problem. I searched and tried a lot of the things in a previous post i found but still no change. I swapped 3 other ecus, changed coil and igniter, took the dizzy off my other car but i didn't get a spark for some reason with that one, TPS sensor works, injectors cycle faster as the rpms climb, checked all grounds. Can anyone think of any other possible causes of this? How much authority does the AFM play in controlling the spark under no load? The car starts on first crank every time and idles and revs fine, just no spark advance or retard.....

The pictures are showing a few of the valve stem that are soked in oil. The picture on top is showing 2 valves, the one on left has oil all over it and the one on the right has just a lilttle bit of oil running from the top(the white part is dry). Should the seals stop all of the oil from getting into the exhaust port or is this what happens to the oil that is left on the stem when you turn your car off?

My car started burning oil a couple days ago. I thought it was a HG or maybe blow by the rings or blown turbo seal. I did a compresison test and with the motor warm and my numbers were 135-130-135-135-132-130. Then i repeated the test with some wd-40 in the cylinders and the numbers all just went up 5. There is no oil in my IC piping but a lot of oil in the exhuast trubine housing. Well anyways i took the intake and exhaust manifold off and noticed a lot of oil running down from the tops of my exhaust valve stems. These pictures are about a hour after the car was running.. Does this look like bad valve seals????

The stock 280zx t3 oil drain flange lined right up with the oil pan

I had a 1.5" spacer made for my hx35w, but it made the turbo to close to the frame rail. I got it machined down to about 3/4" (i'll post up the exact measument) and it gave about 1/4" between the compressor housing and exhaust manifold. This is on a '82 280zx.

I'm about to order a head gasket through courtesy nissan. I was wondering what the part# for the 2mm hks for a '76 280z w/ the n42/n42 motor. I have found this # 11044-91mm2. I don't know if thats the later head gasket or the earlier gasket#. Or will that # fit all l28's??

Nothing is wrong with the head. I wanted to put the p90 on too lower the compression a little bit.

i just tried this set-up at 12psi. Pulled hard for 4 days. BUt then the head gasket blew.... I'm in the middle of changing it now. I'm going to run the n42 block w/ my p90 head if i can find out what mods you have to do....

I just put the motor in as a straight n42 block and head. i blew the head gasket. im going to put the p90 head on the n42 block.. What gasket should i use???

I just took a n42 head cast i have and put one of my old head gaskets i have been using with the f54/p90 over it. It looks like its the same gasket. But on autozone.com it says they call for two different gaskets????

I have a rebuild motor out of a '76 280z. It says its a n42 block and head. I was wondering if my '82 p90 head and oil pan will bolt up and have the same oil holes. Does the f54 block have the same oil holes as the n42?

I'm just going to call dave . The reason i asked was i have been talking to 73Turbo240z which had the same short block built. He said all i need is the f54, l24 lods, and the l28 crank. I didn't know if he mighta said LD28.

I have a '82 280zxt f54 block, I also have the 9mm l24 rods. I was wondering what crank you have to use when you get the arizona z car pistons. ---The stock p30 crank out of the turbo block, or the LD28 crank out of the maxima?

So what are the differences between the 2 blocks??? Is it just the pistonsand rings????

I guess my other option is boring out the turbo block and getting oversized forged flat tops and rings. I have bought a few things through TEP before and there stuff is really good, but some things are a lil expensive.

Alright, i had been running a stock '82 turbo motor in my car for awhile now until the rings went out and the blow by cause preigntion and a piston melted. I have a '82 NA f54 block in my car now but it needs new rings already so i'm just going to go ahead and rebuild it this time. I want to keep the NA block b/c the flat top pistons made the compression ratio wayyy better and the car had way more power. I talked to racetep and they have blueprints for the je and total seal gapless rings for the NA pistons. I'm pretty sure im going to get a set from them and have the top rings high heat coated. I know there are many differnt ring designs but i was wondering what other people have been using and which ones will take a lot of abuse??? And one more thing,i have asked a few different people and have got different answers. Is the only difference between a '82 Turbo f54 bottom end and a '82 NA f54 bottom end the pistons and rings???? Crank and rods are the same, right???? o yea, i plan on runnning only 15 psi max Will the NA pistons be reliable as long as fuel and ignition timing are good. I was running 15psi on the NA and it seemed to take it good, no pinging or anything. I have a ems to control the ign. timing and plenty of fuel to stay in safe a/f ratios and wideband and egt to make sure nothings going wrong.

I installed megasquirt II with the v3.0pcb on my 280. The "2nd" install wasn't so hard after reading for hours on megasquirt.efi. The first install was going well. Had the car running on it but fried 2 brand new fuel injectors because of a grounded circuit and then the board went up in smoke. Spent a lil more time on the wiring the 2nd time around. I first did the l28et swap and the wiring was wayyyy easier. The whole harness comes right. I think all you had to do was cut the power wires at the fusible link box and re connect them were your fusible link box is on your car your swaping the motor into. Then there are 3 plugs that go to the ecu and a plugs about six inches away from the ecu (i dont remember but i think it had 6 wires but you only need to use 2 of them) that you have to run to the power transistor on the side of the turbo coil and then run 1 wire to the relay box. I just followed the wiring diagrams in the haynes book.