driftz240

instant torque, my 48v motor should put out 400 ft lbs torque with the batterys seriesed properly, and our battery tech says we can keep throwing voltage to the motor and it will keep multiplying till it melts the motor...hehehe 1000 ft lbs tq is not difficult to get he says.

I am a forklift mechanic and i have been collecting parts for a while for the swap into somthing, i have a 36v and a 48 volt drive motor for forklifts sitting at my shop, and i am serious about the swap, not into my z but whatever i can find thats cool, just a few questions about the potentiometer set up and the drive train, 1. are you using a scr panel or some kind of box to control the motor, or just streight up contactors/ speed pot, how do you control the smoothness of the motor for around town cruising? 2.are you using a clutch or when you lift off the throttle does the electric motor speed match the gearbox and a clutch is not needed?

I HAVE A WORKING TACH . YEAAAAAAY The 10k 1/4 resistor trick worked awesome.... http://wiki.r31skylineclub.com/index.php?title=Wiring_a_Silvertop_RB20DET_into_an_R31 use the wiring diagram under the tach section....worked for me, i bought a 29$ 2 1/2 dia tach from Oriley auto parts and some 10k 1/4 wt resistors for 1$ "5 resistors" at radio shack. sure beats a 150$ skyline dash, and hours modifying that to work. i tried it to the stock 240 tach and it went ape ♥♥♥♥, obiously way off...so you have to use a aftermarket tach. problem solved.

how can a 4cyl 240sx tach work with a 6 cyl rb? how did you do that?

ive thought of using a gm hei 4 module to run it also, maybe it would covnvert the signal to somthing usable...worst case i buy a apexi safc and keep it on the tach setting.

keep me posted, i found a thread on a r31 rb20det swap, it said use a 10k resistor between the ecu power and tach signal and it will work. but im not so sure about splicing a tach signal into exc power, sounds like it would cause bad things to happen to the ecu...

i have a rb20det and im trying to install a aftermarket tach, i know the tach signal wire off the ecu or dash harness is where to pick up the signal, but it will not work a tach, i have heard alot of ways that are saposed to work, ive never installed a tach on a distributorless ign system, they sell coil on plug adapters made by msd, but im not sure if they will work eigher. anyone have a aftermarket tach working on there rb20?

thats is the best way, i couldent bring up the pic, so i cant see what he was thinking about geting, but you are correct, get the style mentioned by rz

adam post this on expectingmothers.com also i think its the only site you havent posted it on yet. lol haha yeah that z is awesome...lol

i dont think your really going to want to yank the hand brake in an autox. but i would go with the 5/8, the 3/4 will be really hard to pull, you can get them really cheap from dune buggy shops, usually about 100$, most of them have no means of actually holding your car on a hill, there designed to fall back flat when your not using them. so you better buy some chalks also.

so do i even need it, i have no radio... all out racer im wondering if i have somthing wrong with my constants or some programing issues.

mobys write up "ms install" says to install a condenser from the coil + to the base of the dizzy. what kind of condenser "stock?" and can someone explain why i need this? maybe i have a bad condenser, will this stop it from getting spark....

Well ms1 is installed and i figured out why i am not getting spark, i dont have the proper code telling f-idle wire to trigger the coil. so i have been going step by step trying to reflash the proper code, as per a friends write up, and what he and his brother used on there z with same 280zxt swap and same ms1 system. for some reason when i try to install the boot header jumper "paper clip" it starts going threw a bunch of code and says .....waiting and on 2 of the lines it says ...error, and will not load the new code. whats up with this? i have ms1 v2.2 i have noticed that on the board itself the 2 holes for the boot harness do not look like they touch anything, one is just empty hole, the other looks like it has a line going to a diode or cap or somthing. but in my opinion looks like there is no reason to jumper the board to a empty hole that has nothing that looks to carry current anyware. im confused, maybe somthing is wrong with the board. anyone have problems flashing the inital code into the board. a buddy emailed me an artical that was on hybridz "i think he wrote" that had a step by step how to flash the code in the board. any other atricals on here, i cant seem to even find the one he wrote on here.

i like it, my personal opinion. i like stretched tires and neg camber. i wouldent have put it that low, i bet he drags that exhaust on everyhting.

where do i set up to use fidle as a trigger? i must be missing somthing

well hei is good, and i did test the coil and fidle, fidle is not pulsing, it seems to be constant 12 volts

idl to fidle jumper i was just looking threw mobys write up closer, and i found this, what is ment by jumping idl to fidle? is that on the board. what is idl? on that note i have an ign wire not tach on my harness. also i have dizzy conections 1.gb spliced with tach "my ign wire on harness" hooked to 12v via 1k resistor. 2. i used the same 12v source as listed in 1. but ran it before the resistor to bw dizzy power wire. can i share the same 12v. and is the ign wire "shielded wire" saposed to be spliced with the gb? sorry to post like hell on this, im resurching and trying to find things out at the same time.

yes i have 12v to the coil, i just had the module tested, it is ok, do i have to jump somthing on the board? i have read and heard many things. i think you jumped xg1 and xg2 and shorted out the diode, is this what transfers the output to the f-idle circuit. im still kinda confused on how this is working. we are actually using 2.25 not 3 as i thought. my neighbor and i were looking threw the ms manual, and at our programing, constants. well figure it out, its probably somthing very simple. goes the hei have to be grounded to ms or just the chassis?

i have not opened up the ms unit yet and am running no relay boards. this is a track only car, i have been reading that really i dont need the hei module, is this true, since i have no radio or comforts i can deal with any rfi noise... i have not jumped any xg1/xg2 and shorted out the diode like moby stated. my friend said he dident do that to his z, is this the problem?

hei is correct, grounded well, to the chassis of the car, and i sanded down a spot on the chassis "inner fender" to mount it and applied electric grease to the back of it, it is grounded to the car, does it have to be grounded to ms? so i am correct on jumping tps vref to the fidle wire using a 1k resistor? the hei is installed correctly, i even tried adding a compasitor "stock 280zxt" from the coil to the terminal on the base of the dizzy, still nothing, do i have to download somthing else, it should have been loaded with msns+e from when i got it, and we tryed to tune it with 3.0 i have my base maps and everything in there, im getting rpm signal on the lap top, and injectors are working. maybe i burnt up the hei module. im on the way to ghettozone now with it to test it.

yeah i have the distributor connection correct, i messed up on the f-idle, i thought it said 5v , witch is why i jumped it with the tps vref wire, it probably needs to be 12v. i think mobys writeup says 5v, am i wrong.

yes but i hooked the tps and the f-idle wire together via the resistor, is this correct?

heres what i have 240z with l28et swap, im running a ms1 v2.2 built by diyautotune, msns im using the 4pin hei like in mobys write up, i have everything wired correctly "i belive" as per the wiring diagram provided by mobys writeup. heres what happens when i crank over the car to start it, i smell fuel, "lap top shows injectors are working and so does my nose" i am getting rpm signal, but i dont get spark, i am only getting a spark when the key is turned to the ignition on position then again when it is turned off. i have triple checked the wiring and am confidant it is correct. i have tried another coil and am planning on trying another hei module. but am i missing somthing ovious?

yeah, i think they gave me the wrong part. dident think it wold work.

i ordered a gm iat sensor and it came in one wire, should there be too? i dont think it will work if its not grounded via screwed in the engine or grounded in some way, witch it will not be if it is installed in my ic pipe. the other one they had at napa was plastic and looked like it went in a air cleaner box. what part number is everyone using to put the iat in intercooler tubing, or is a mat sensor better?