driftz240

I just got a set of the dp camber plates, they are very well made I think, and adjust as far as you would want to go, I havent hit them with a camber gage but neked eye camber gage says -3 at 4th bolt hole, oddly they only have 2 holes for mounting bolts," not sure if it matters much. only bad thing I found was if you go to the 3rd or 4th adjustment hole you cant adjust your stem adjustable sturts anymore, i had to cut a little hole between the rear mount bolt, but i can deal with that. all in all I am happy with them, and dident have to cut anything.

cincinnati, fairfield area.... we outta have a z car meet

try www.131collision.com hes painting my z, and he is the local guru of paint, and airbrush art, he does alot of show cars and the cars for mojo 94.9 time machine give away.. the guy is freeking awesome. hes in milford, witch is in cincy area.

I just ordered a kidney belt...lol my drift setup is finally complete, i put together a 1 3/4 sectioned strut with custom kyb real sport dampers 4 click adjsutable front,8 click rear, brp coilovers, 450 front / 350 rear spring rates, dp racing camber plates, 35mm bumpsteer spacers. ill be shaking it down at beaverun drift event very soon. ill get video of the super slide action.. now off to the body shop...

I just ordered a kidney belt...lol my drift setup is finally complete, i put together a 1 3/4 sectioned strut with custom kyb real sport dampers 4 click adjsutable front,8 click rear, brp coilovers, 450 front / 350 rear spring rates, dp racing camber plates, 35mm bumpsteer spacers. ill be shaking it down at beaverun drift event very soon. ill get video of the super slide action.. now off to the body shop...

i pm you dcz, but either way my book says like 7 bucks ups from nc, we can call it 10$ to play it safe ill get you a check out as soon as you get back to me and verify the spline count... use my email driftz240@aol.com i really dont go on websites much

actually i figured the spacer was the wrong one. i had a bunch of parts laying around, i found some shorter ones that im guessing came out of my struts....at a glance covered in grease they all look the same...lol good info about the letter code

if your looking into oldschool wheels, check out the longchamp xr4...also on www.club4ag.com theres a cool oldschool wheel guide in tech section, watanabes, cherry blossems, xr4, libras , star sharks, hoshino impuls all kinda cool stuff that would look awesome on any old school car... i love the watanabe but seems like every one is copying them, and using them..theres like 4 different copy watanabe, konig rewinds, american racing silverstones, panasports "not sure what was around first" anyway, i love them but getting to common for my taste, i think theres a lot of wheels noone else is using that are very cool also.

What exactly is that for? I understand its a spacer, Im guessing to hold a true space between the outer and inner bearing. But when you install the outer wheel bearing on the stub shaft and it bottoms out against the wheel mount plate, if you drop on the spacer it doesnt allow the inner bearing to press all the way onto the machined seat area. i noticed that i dident have full thread count when i put on my 280zxt axel companion flanges when i had the spacer installed.. I removed the spacer, and the inner bearing now drops in farther and bottoms out on the machined lip in the strut housing...is it a good idea to run without the spacer? does it actually do anything? it seems to fit the companion flange better without them.

the msa ones only adjust to +/- .7. I think you can straticly place some washers and do better than that "joking".. I just ordered the DP camber plates, 185$ for bolt on that looks to give much much more adjustability than the msa mounts.

holly poop, is that z tubed?, i just noticed that. id say thats a drag car...lol but seriously, whats up with the head spliting halo?

I think scca rules say the rear legs shouldent go past the rear strut towers, and that halo or whatever those upper halo/door front leg bars look like head spliters if you slapped it sideways into a wall... the jegs cage was simple to install the main hoop and back, we sank alot of time into getting the halo and front legs right, in my opinion the z is too small for a full 10pt cage, and it makes the car claustophobic. I seem to bust my elboes on the door bar. i feel if your doing the rear section 4 or 6 pt, the jegs is a value, but my time is worth alot, it took us 16 hours to totally install the cage in my z, I thought we were being thrifty, but it would have cost less and had alot less headaches and work to just buy the autopower cage, but if your a good welder and have a pipe notcher and dont mind spending alot of time on it id go jegs.. as for structure its .137 wall tubing, very nice bends, fits very well. im sure it being in a drift car ill get to test its safety features someday. BTW: I am 6,1 and had to drop my seat mounts 1.5 inch and custom make some brackets, i cant deal with my helmet tapping the halo, anyone else have problems with helmet clearance with there prefab cage?

Ill Take It, Dcz.. My Email Is driftz240@aol.com Or 513-894-5839 Let Me Know What You Want For It And Ill Get The Check Out A.s.a.p....

much harder when its stuck in the housing of the strut... parts washer 2 days , air chizel, arbor press, heat, , strut itself was so rusted up the strut pin never came out ... i have a strut i just need 1 stub axel. the other side came out nice.

actually we had a worse time than that, it was stuck in the strut housing. we let it sit in a parts washer on shimmy for 2 days before trying to remove it, and tryed the air chizzle thing"vibration should knock it out", dident work, tried the arbor press it started mushrooming the threads, added some heat, more mushroom.....arggggg 33 years of rust kicked my azz, but oh well ..whats odd is the other one had a few swift love taps and fell right out....gotta love ohios rust belt, and old cars... i actually had to drill and tap every rear suspension and diff bolt..but the car is very soon to be 100% restored/modified and drift ready

I decided it would be cool to have to heat up and re-arange the molicules in my 33 year old stub axels and bearings to get them out...plus 10k lb arbor press , recipe for disaster...anyone got a set they would like to sell?

i have the 10 point jegs cage in my z, the main hoop and halo fit very nice, there is a bit of extra material you need to cut, for the 10 point with all the tools and a good welder handy, look at 16 hours of work to do it right... i thought those pics were of my car, it looks identical to what i had done over the winter.

yeah ive been offered alot for mine..ive been into them since 96. i used to get them cuz they were cheap and fun for the money, now its crazy, the inital d kids will pay 5000$ for a car that 5 years ago would have sold for 500-1200 bucks.. gotta love it.

AK-Z i like you garage.. i have a ae86 also.. in my opinion the 2 best old school japanese cars around...

it is a gas engine, but using a modern impco propane system, but a gas carb was oem equiptment.yeah i kinda figured the low rpm range might cause some broblems, balancing it might be a good idea.if i test fit the head and everything looks good, its off to the machine shop, re-ring it and balance it. nothing too fancy on a guess job that might just explode. but if it does work i can get tons of these.3.o long blocks. ill post results once i do it. i dont plan on dropping it into a car just yet..actually im really into that datsun military truck and want to find one of those to restore, that would be a cool grocery getter.

the one i have is ohc, it even looks like the timing chain, guide and gears are the same, it looks alot like an L series motor. with distributor in a different spot and a super size waterpump. ill try a e88 and some round tops on it for sheets and giggles, the intake minifold and LPG carb might make a super low emissions LP powered 240z for someone, if there stupid enuff to mount a LP tank in your hatch.

Has anyone ever heard of an h30 engine? im a forklift tech, and pulled a old tcm forklift engine, the old early 70's tcm had a h30 6CYL datsun engine, that looks dead on the L series found in the z cars, "with exception of distributor being on the opposite side of the block, and ofcourse the stupid cam profile and head designed for low rpm , high torque industrial applications. what do you think would happen if i bolted on a E88 head on this bad boy? it certinly looks like it will fit no prob. the head gaskets are identical to a l26 one i had laying around. do you think it might make some good power? i found a link of old datsun industrial and commertial units, kinda cool..im in love with that nissan japanese military truck. anyway, has anyone ever tryed this? i have round tops and e88 and everything i need to make it happen...should i waste a few hours of my life just to see what would happen?? check out this site http://www.geocities.com/motorcity/pit/3823/truck.html

"not hot"... they will slip if you get them smoking azz hot, like after a good hard session of abuse. but the clutches grip better at a operating temp, kinda like brakes , hawk hp+ pads suck on the first few stops but get better when they get in an effective operating heat range.. that might be why the lsd units seem to have a lower brakeaway torque sitting on a bench at room temp rather than at operating temp...im no differential engineer, ill ask a friend at TRD south and see how they rate brake away torque...hot , cold, wet , dry?..now i really want to find out..as well as how to properly check it without the fancy tools,"im not sure if the old jack one side of the car up and make up a bracket to fit the lug studs with a 7/8 nut welded in the center of the bracket,and pull and look at the torque wrench to see what torque you here the clutches slip trick works accuratly..

i think some companys rate brakeaway torque dry "no oil" diff new sitting on a bench."but i gould be wrong"..also sometimes they get more grippy when they get to operating temp". also on the new nismo gt lsd I belive the clutches are 20% larger than the older nismo units, if im reading my japanese correctly, im forgetting alot of my reading skills. you can definetly get more agressive with clutch arangment, and shim size, its somthing you really have to play with to get right. kazz units for the r200 usually come with 80% lock up, and so much brake away torque they hop the inside tire in tight, very low speed corners "makes people think you forgot to tighten somthing down". you can call kazz and have them get you one for the 12mm 10 bolt r200 carrier, 29 spline .

honestly id rather watch the WORLD CLOWN BOXING CHAMPIONSHIPS than another fast and furious movie...