billseph

PM sent regarding the handles/armrests Pete.

^ I'd tend to think that for the cost of that piece that the $$ would be better spent elsewhere.

Just a quick thought regarding your testing. You can switch into different modes on the ECU to clear codes, etc. There is also a mode, mode 5 I believe, don't have my FSM in front of me, where you can see problem codes in real time on the ECU'S red and green LED'S. maybe you could switch into that mode and see when exactly the CAS is acting up. Maybe it's throwing the code at idle (or maybe not) and perhaps you can see it happen when you free rev it to 3500 rpm. It's worth a try.

If you're trying to turn them on when they're not in the gauge housing they won't work. The ground for the bulb is integrated into the socket, so they need to be plugged back into the gauge to work. The gauge housing is the ground in the circuit.

The coil (-) is the top cross-bar of the T, (+) is the trunk of the T.

That'll be fun. I hope it runs well once you get it swapped in. My setup is a little quirky, but I'm getting things ironed out slowly but surely.

I see what looks like a Cobra MAF like I use for my JWT 450HP ECU setup, was that the engine management used for this motor?

Krumm used that setup because his crank mount CAS was suspected to be bad...turned out it was actually the ignitor for his coil that was the problem...I know this because I now have the car and got it running the "right way". Your distributor will be just that...something to distribute spark, if you wire it Krumm's way, no communication with the ECCS, which is not ideal. If worse comes to worse you can always buy someone's used 82-83 dizzy cuz it'll have a working CAS. That's my $0.02

Good for you...a working igniter will give you spark, hope you get it running today.

I know you said you tested your power transistor (igniter) and it was good, but I'm still gonna throw it out there that maybe it IS your problem, it does happen. I know you had the swap running before the Z31 ECU swap, but was it on just your 77 ECU? Point being that I didn't know there was an igniter checking method, and when I deemed my 280zx ignitor was bad, I just did the GM HEI ignition module swap-a-roo, and fired the motor right up. It's less than a $25 swap/test, could be that simple.

For the record...my ECU (JWT 450HP modded) always throws code 21 as well...car runs fine. After months of on and off searching for the answer to the code and not finding anything, I just said "WHATEVER"

Also don't get any kind of crazy with the wire cutters until you have a running car. Being your first swap, I wouldn't take the chance of making a mistake that you have to add back in wire to undo.

EFI relay and Fuel Pump relay. Since yours is a different year swap, I don't know about the box that was in the strut tower, MAYBE, BIG MAYBE, it was the fuel pump modulator, I have no expertise in this. I don't believe the fuel pump modulator is mandatory to have connected to have a running swap. With as far as you are in your build I was under the assumption that you'd started your wiring, just a misunderstanding on my part. In all honesty, the wiring is a little tricky, some people get hung up on it for a LONG time, I hope yours goes easily.

ECCS is the correct term...ECU gets thrown around because that's what everyone calls it. No additional "box" is needed for the ignition harness, based on the sticky though, the resistor for the coil was prob with it, so your stock tach may not work (I have an autometer, so it didn't matter for me). The two wire deal (probably with a T plug on it) isn't a part of the S30 swap...ignore it, cut it off, whatever. The igniter wiring on the turbo coil is important, it fires the coil. IDK what the 77 coil has for an igniter...I had to the HEI swap with mine personally cuz my igniter was no good. All the ignition harness had that you're missing is a switched 12volt, a ground, and a tach wire I believe, but don't quote me, I've only ever done an '81 swap into my 240Z, and that was a year and a half ago. Page 2 of the sticky has what you need, pics and all. Of all the obstacles you've run into already, this one should be easy, just study up a little.

Already replied to you in another thread...but my advice is just make one. You only need 2 or 3 wires. If you know what wires go where from the "turbo swap" sticky, then it's a piece of cake.