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billseph

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Everything posted by billseph

  1. PM sent regarding the handles/armrests Pete.
  2. ^ I'd tend to think that for the cost of that piece that the $$ would be better spent elsewhere.
  3. Just a quick thought regarding your testing. You can switch into different modes on the ECU to clear codes, etc. There is also a mode, mode 5 I believe, don't have my FSM in front of me, where you can see problem codes in real time on the ECU'S red and green LED'S. maybe you could switch into that mode and see when exactly the CAS is acting up. Maybe it's throwing the code at idle (or maybe not) and perhaps you can see it happen when you free rev it to 3500 rpm. It's worth a try.
  4. If you're trying to turn them on when they're not in the gauge housing they won't work. The ground for the bulb is integrated into the socket, so they need to be plugged back into the gauge to work. The gauge housing is the ground in the circuit.
  5. The coil (-) is the top cross-bar of the T, (+) is the trunk of the T.
  6. That'll be fun. I hope it runs well once you get it swapped in. My setup is a little quirky, but I'm getting things ironed out slowly but surely.
  7. I see what looks like a Cobra MAF like I use for my JWT 450HP ECU setup, was that the engine management used for this motor?
  8. Krumm used that setup because his crank mount CAS was suspected to be bad...turned out it was actually the ignitor for his coil that was the problem...I know this because I now have the car and got it running the "right way". Your distributor will be just that...something to distribute spark, if you wire it Krumm's way, no communication with the ECCS, which is not ideal. If worse comes to worse you can always buy someone's used 82-83 dizzy cuz it'll have a working CAS. That's my $0.02
  9. Good for you...a working igniter will give you spark, hope you get it running today.
  10. I know you said you tested your power transistor (igniter) and it was good, but I'm still gonna throw it out there that maybe it IS your problem, it does happen. I know you had the swap running before the Z31 ECU swap, but was it on just your 77 ECU? Point being that I didn't know there was an igniter checking method, and when I deemed my 280zx ignitor was bad, I just did the GM HEI ignition module swap-a-roo, and fired the motor right up. It's less than a $25 swap/test, could be that simple.
  11. For the record...my ECU (JWT 450HP modded) always throws code 21 as well...car runs fine. After months of on and off searching for the answer to the code and not finding anything, I just said "WHATEVER"
  12. Also don't get any kind of crazy with the wire cutters until you have a running car. Being your first swap, I wouldn't take the chance of making a mistake that you have to add back in wire to undo.
  13. EFI relay and Fuel Pump relay. Since yours is a different year swap, I don't know about the box that was in the strut tower, MAYBE, BIG MAYBE, it was the fuel pump modulator, I have no expertise in this. I don't believe the fuel pump modulator is mandatory to have connected to have a running swap. With as far as you are in your build I was under the assumption that you'd started your wiring, just a misunderstanding on my part. In all honesty, the wiring is a little tricky, some people get hung up on it for a LONG time, I hope yours goes easily.
  14. ECCS is the correct term...ECU gets thrown around because that's what everyone calls it. No additional "box" is needed for the ignition harness, based on the sticky though, the resistor for the coil was prob with it, so your stock tach may not work (I have an autometer, so it didn't matter for me). The two wire deal (probably with a T plug on it) isn't a part of the S30 swap...ignore it, cut it off, whatever. The igniter wiring on the turbo coil is important, it fires the coil. IDK what the 77 coil has for an igniter...I had to the HEI swap with mine personally cuz my igniter was no good. All the ignition harness had that you're missing is a switched 12volt, a ground, and a tach wire I believe, but don't quote me, I've only ever done an '81 swap into my 240Z, and that was a year and a half ago. Page 2 of the sticky has what you need, pics and all. Of all the obstacles you've run into already, this one should be easy, just study up a little.
  15. Already replied to you in another thread...but my advice is just make one. You only need 2 or 3 wires. If you know what wires go where from the "turbo swap" sticky, then it's a piece of cake.
  16. Not very f'ed. You only need a couple, maybe a few of the wires from it. I made mine. If you have a grasp of the infamous "turbo swap sticky" then it's a piece of cake. I have a spare, but it's from an '81, so it wouldn't be plug and play for you.
  17. Yes, and ideally with a fitting that allowed that excess air to be directed back toward the turbo.
  18. I think the simple fact here is that you're gonna have to put the AFM outside the engine bay. Make some custom piping to extend the stock intake boot to the turbo, or just toss the boot all together and make a full intake pipe from metal. Extending the AFM harness will be a snap after that little bit of intake fab, it's just 4 wires to cut and splice. I know I'm stating the obvious here, but Tony pretty much said to put it "in front of the radiator" which is a great location for it, it just requires some extra work.
  19. Found what I needed through eBay. Thread can be closed if need be.
  20. 280's have a bulge in the driver side of the trans. tunnel for a catalytic converter. Earlier S30 models don't have this bulge, so seat fitment is trickier In the 280.
  21. Not here to answer your question, but I'm eagerly awaiting some hopefully knowledgable responses. I want to have a wideband for the same reason...plus it's kinda a bling factor too I know some widebamd manufacturers even have a sensor that will output a narrowband (like a normal O2 sensor) signal too so your stock ECU still knows what's going on, which would be SWEET.
  22. I've never reviewed the actual full FSM, just the link I provided. If I were you I'd enter mode 2 and see what codes flash (if any). Your car oughta run at idle with the MAF disconnected, so I'd bet you're just running rich as all hell, but since I'm not there seeing what's happening, I can't guess very well.You can pull the fuel rail with the injectors and fuel lines still connected and set it on top of the motor to see what they're doing when you crank it, maybe they are stuck open, maybe they're just putting out hardly any fuel. Kind of a pain, but when things ain't working, you gotta check the basics.
  23. Sorry Domsz, but that info is false. That is just the ECU going through modes 1-5 waiting for the user to select a mode. Mine does not have a single green flash after mode 2, but regardless, those are not "codes" just modes. Edit: Just for clarification I'm running a JWT 450HP modded 88 or 89 ECU, but the code retrieval is the same. And FWIW, my ECU always stores codes 14 (vehicle speed sensor), 21 (Ignition signal), 22 (fuel pump circuit), and 42 (fuel temp. sensor). And my car runs just fine. Buy after I drive it a couple times, the codes always come back (indicated by a solid red LED when the car is running or ignition is in "on" position) viewing the codes in mode 3 makes the red LED go away, but as I said, it comes back on after a couple drives. Personally I wish I could figure out the ignition signal code (21) but I guess that's just the way it is.
  24. I saw in your video your ECU "going through the modes" the link says it all. Turn switch fully clockwise...when the LED's flash 3x, immediately turn the switch fully counterclockwise...now you're in mode 3 and you can check for stored codes. Green LED counts "tens" red LED counts "ones" (one green flash followed by 4 red flashes is code 14, 2 green flashes followed by 1 red flash is code 21 etc.) Codes will cycle over and over again, so if you miss one, it'll come around again. Once you have all the codes, turn the ignition off and it'll be back in mode 1 automatically once you turn it back on, OR, turn the switch clockwise again and let it "go through" modes 4 and 5, then once it's back in mode 1 (1 flash of both LED's simultaneously) turn the switch CCW again and you're locked back into mode 1. I don't know what codes will get stored with the car not really running, but I've instructed you on how to enter mode 3, so check and report back with your codes. Easy enough?
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