CaptainJoe87

I've tried searching but am having little luck because all I have to use is my cellphone. I have a 1980 s130 Yesterday while on a short road trip my oil pressure started going nuts. The oil pressure would dip really hard then jerkingly shoot back up to normal and sometimes past the half way point. It even zeroed out a couple times and I shut the car off. Strange thing is the light never comes on. Oil level is good. Sometimes it jumps up when I rev it sometimes it doesn't or dips. Does that sound like a bad pump, bad sensor, bad gauge? I've had it parked in the same spot last night and don't show any signs of a leak. My secondary issue right now.is a lack of tools and work space. If anyone has had this issue and knows how to fix it, please share and thanks in advance. I've gotta hit the road around noon time tomorrow.

Ok, ill have to take a look. My issues may have become more.serious though. I think my oil pump may be going bad. My pressure is all over the place and sometimes zeros out. The strange thing to me is the light never comes on? I'm two hours from one with no tools. Any suggestions on quick fixes or other things to look at so I can drive home?

I ordered steel brake lines the other day and when I got them they looked like this. The two for the front look right but I haven't been under the car to see if the rears are right. Anyone know what they are supposed to look like and if these look right? Thanks

I have a n42 head I'd be willing to part with.

I'm looking at doing Rota shakotan 15x9 -15 all the way around. They should fit pretty nice and I have 25mm spacers if I need them for the rears. I was going to do rb's but decided against it. This way I can rotate tires when I need to with less trouble, tires should be cheaper, and the shakotans look pretty damn cool too. Probably going to run a small stretch, maybe a 225/50 or a 215/?? Haven't fully decided.

For the rears I will probably just line it up and drill a hole for the other bolt. Good to know about the tc rods, I think.they are going to be in my near future as soon as I sell the wheels I have now.

You have them on your car right BD? Do they come with whatever bushings you need for install? How was the install? Did you just match stock length in the adjustment and put them on?

I want them on tomorrow hahaha Reality is, I also want to have everything right so I don't.have to keep taking it apart. If I can get it all done this month then I will be happy. The tc rod bushings on the car are totally shot, so maybe it would be the best thing to do.

Yep, s13 coilovers, $550 shipped. Gonna get some new rotors, ceramic pads, stainless brake lines, and maybe a bushing kit. That way when its all back together it will be good to go. I was looking at the adjustable tc rods from technotoy but I'm not really sure if I need them or not.

Check out what finally came in the mail! Just gotta get the fronts milled and welded.

Awesome!! That's what I thought but everywhere I was looking for brake parts had it split through the two year groups. I guess because of the rears being different it splits the whole car up? I could have swore I saw two different part numbers for the fronts too but I guess I was wrong.

Question... The brake parts change from 79-81 and 82-83, what is the difference? I got a guy that is going to sell me his front strut tubes from an 82 so I can cut down my down time when I do coilovers. He is giving me the brake calipers too and I guess I just need to know the differences between the two setups. Can anyone shed some light on it for me?

Question... The brake parts change from 79-81 and 82-83, what is the difference? I got a guy that is going to sell me his front strut tubes from an 82 so I can cut down my down time when I do coilovers. He is giving me the brake calipers too and I guess I just need to know the differences between the two setups. Can anyone shed some light on it for me?

I'll get some of the wheels when all four are done.

Got the headers on today, also a n42 non egr intake all hooked up. Still working on a few vacuum leaks but I have them temporarily plunged for now. Sounds awesome running open header but I'm still going to pipe it out. Front two wheels are painted neon yellow and on the car. Might have time to do the rears tomorrow hopefully, who knows.

Ok, small update. In the middle of a tune up. Waiting on wires, cap, and rotor to come in. I went with the NGK V-power plugs, not sure if these plugs or just because new plugs, but the car runs a lot more smoothly. Along with the wires, rotor, and cap, I also ordered my exhaust tubing finally. So hopefully by the end of next week my headers will be on, pipe will be run straight no cat or muffler, and all the tuneup stuff will be done too. Saving for coilovers and install hopefully before the end of the summer.

True, I was just wondering if there were any advantages to using the other one. I figured not but thats why you ask questions.

Ok, because overtime I get to do exhaust and coilovers sooner than I thought. So wheel paint goes on the back burner because it is only cosmetic. So now I have a question, I have two sets of headers. One set is from a 78 I think and the other is for my car. One has round ports and one has square. I have a p79 head, but I remember someone saying either round or square headers could go on any port head and the other one couldn't. Does anyone know which is which and if so have any recommendations as to which headers I should use on.the car?

I had a minor setback, its gonna be another week or so before I get more paint and finish all 4.

One of my wheels got scratched so I picked a new color and decided to plastidip them. Can't wait to get all 4 done and get them on the car.

Awesome, thanks for the heads up on both. When I get my computer up and running ill probably get on Ratsun and zilvia too so I can try to find more stuff.

So, my intake boot that comes off the afm developed a tear and I had to replace it. $8 and a hacksaw later and this is what I did. Just a coupling and cutting down my pipe the cone filter was on. I had to cut it down so it fit but everything went smooth.

I saw on their website and a couple other places that they can't be hubcentric balanced and it has to be lugcentric. As for the coils, that's pretty much all I want them for is to get lower.

Actually, I was thinking about hitting you up yesterday and asking about balancing your tires on your diamonds. That's the only thing turning me off from them as of now.

Damn, really? I've read a lot of people talking about them and it seemed like the only people talking bad about them were people that didn't own them. A bunch of guys on the 240sx forums have had good things to say about them. A couple guys have been riding on the non damper adjusting ones for a couple years. Which ones did your friend have, adjustable or non? Anyways, I'm still waiting on the body shop and trying to plot my next few moves with the rest of the money in my car savings. hahaha Question, my 2nd gear synchro is going bad, could I use the one from the spare 4 speed I have to replace it? Everything I have read says the gears are all the same, I just have a 5th gear overdrive. I'm also back on a wheel hunt hahaha I want something closer to 16x10 and am throwing the idea around of stretching tires once I do coilovers and lowering the car a good bit, but that's gonna be a while. I want to get the suspension and everything under the car sound before I sond more money on wheels. The ones I have arent that bad.