Bishopsrock

I plugged all of the hose holes in the main fuel tank leading to the vapour tank. Then I fitted a UK fuel tank filler pipe breather - all it does is route a single feed from the filler neck through the wheel well out to ground. If I overfill it now then excess fuel will start to dribble out at my feet. No problems so far with this setup.

Been busy so not visited HybridZ in ages - i'm very impressed -your car is looking great! Tyres are on my 'to do more with' list - what spec did you go for in the pics??? Also, I think that Stoney should leave the stuff in your thread where it is because this thread is the only start to finish, complete documented step by step that I have been able to find on this site - if he chops it then he makes it incomplete and this is unwarranted after you have put so much effort into documenting it all.

Hi Chris, They did this ages ago (and took at least 100 photos) - I can't properly remember who I acknowledged now though. Sorry, I don't think that I mentioned you specifically but I did mention all of the HybridZ community and stressed that this was where I got my inspiration, technical knowledge and advice. At the time, I was thinking about stating the sources of info that someone reading the mag and considering the conversion would find helpful but I do wish I had included you specifically now though! Anyway, what they actually print is another thing entirely - I just hope its not embarrassing!

I haven't managed to get any proper pics of my car up here yet - just pics of the odd part here or there as I needed help and advice. Japenese Performance magazine http://www.japaneseperformancemagazine.co.uk/ was tracking my conversion through their close contact with Rod Bell at RB Motorsport here in the UK. As soon as Rod told them it was finished, they took a look at it and then called me up to arrange a photo shoot etc. I know my car isn't the same as most on this forum as I have built a street sleeper, which until you lift the hood, doesn't look anything special. But, there is no hiding the natural beauty and classic lines of a 240z. Anyway, if anyone is interested, it is appearing in the February edition of Japanese Performance as stated below:- Next Month in Japanese Performance HERE COME THE Z-CARS Datsun 240Z GT-R goes Q-car with twin-turbo power, 600bhp Evo III coupe, SEMA Show full report, Boost controller test and all the usual Japanese Performance favourites Why not subscribe today? FEBRUARY 2009 ISSUE ON SALE 13TH JANUARY 2009 I Don't know whether this will be a one page or a two page etc - so don't hold me to anything, but I did make sure that I gave HybridZ a proper acknowledgement and I hope they print it - lets see?? Hey, who knows, someone who reads it might just think that its a good idea and start one themselves!

Ray, are you installing an RB25 or an RB26? If you pm me you email address then I will forward you the little that I have found and used to help me. Presumably you have downloaded the engine manual - about 23 megs worth? Also, if you would like me to post a pic of my wiring then let me know and I will try to dig one out from my hard drive put it up here? Good luck

Hi Ray, thanks for contributing that. I currently have the R33 tacho mounted in my S30 pod and it works fine but this is only a temporary measure for me. My goal is a total stealth street sleeper and so I need to go back to the standard S30 gauges. I am going to give your idea a try so have you any idea what models & years this was fitted too? Thanks

Cheers for sorting this out Stealth Z. I found the Toyota crossover part number for the one that was stated originally on Chris's brilliant thread - I then ordered it but found it was too thin. I thought the slimmer sender must be one that fitted an RB25 and not my RB26. I then became too busy to follow it up but have wanted to. I will give your suggestion a try asap. Thanks

Just dropped by to catch up on your swap - I have been mad busy with work and have absolutely no time for my car at the moment - its distressing!!! Glad to see that you are still 100% focused though and making good progress. You sound like you are nearly there so good luck and watch out for the dreaded detonation! Oh yes - and I havn't got my temp sender sorted either. I am monitoring the temp using the Apexi Power FC hand controller but it would be nice to have my stock gauge working. Cheers

Count me in for a set please and remember I was first to order!!! Sorry Jerry but at the moment you only 'think' that you want a set Shipping to the UK. Cheers

Hi Luke, Your car looks great and i am particularly impressed by your intercooler pipework - work of art mate. Looking at your pics, it seems that you might be using the stock radiator? If you are, then I would consider replacing it with a modern dual pass one. A guy that I know has fried his RB26 after only 2 weeks on the road - apparently due to the stock radiator being unable to disperse the heat quick enough whilst on boost. I bet that your car will be amazing to drive though - does an RB30 qualify you to join NASA? Cheers

Yes I have been thinking the same thing today - i.e. that I will have to dismantle half the engine bay in order to fix something fairly simple - like fitting the 240z oil pressure sensor that I forgot to fit! When I lift the hood now, all I see is an impenetrable wall of pipes and cables. Glad to see that you are still crossing the jobs off the list though. Anyway, I have been on vacation for a while but am back now - so I will try to post the recirc stuff in the next week or so.

I did something a little different and went with a completely stock install - well as much as was possible anyway. I mounted the R33 GTR in tank pump in a 260z baffled tank and connected the GTR fuel pump control module. I have run the car at full throttle up hill, down hill, round corners and through the gears in a straight line - seems to work perfectly with no ill effects. Oh yes and the best bit is that I can't hear the fuel pump or feel its vibration when stationary or at any speed. If your interested see my install thread with pics http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=135471 Cheers

Hi Get off my internet (whats your name???) I have fitted my recircs and think, considering the prior discussion, that I should post it under your thread - but its your thread and I don't want to hijack it. Would you like me to post here or elsewhere? Cheers

Thanks for helping, So we are saying that there are 2 wires coming off the RB25 tranny speed sensor. Which on my R33 JDM loom become coloured:- 1 - Grey with Red Stripe 2 - Yellow with Brown Stripe One of these connects to the back of the GTR speedo and the signal is processed/modified by the speedo. It then comes out of the speedo from a seperate output and from there goes to pin 53 on the R33 ECU. This is the signal that allows the ECU to implement the top speed cut and so if we have used the Skyline instruments we might not want to connect the speed wire to the ECU . The other wire coming off the speed sensor goes to earth. OK, a couple more questions - which of the two wires goes to earth? or does it not matter which one is earthed? and have you any idea why they chose to take earth by a second wire when they could have just connected it internally to the tranny case? or have they already done that and these two wires are both signal wires running to different places - HICAS etc? Cheers

Thanks for that - I am confused about the sensor because there are two wires coming off it and I had thought that the sensor might need power? My cable-x has now arrived which will take the speed signal and convert it to a cable to drive the original stock speedo - problem is that I cant find a wiring diagram to show how the speed sensor works so I am unsure how to connect it to the cable-x? Do you know if both wires coming out of the speed sensor carry the same signal? or is one for another purpose/input? Cheers

Hi Guys, I have just read some of my post back trying to explain my thought process and it sounds a bit rubbish. I have been reading other threads and posts where the mission is to uprate everything - pistons, injectors, turbos, cams, porting etc.. to get more hp. Having driven a 240 GTR in relatively detuned form, I suddenly appreciate that it is very difficult to apply this power to the tarmac and that for road use none of this makes sense. I do stand by my "lethal" statement though I am now a big fan of keeping the engineering pretty much near standard if possible. Any further opinions on recircs? Cheers

Hi Guys, Can anyone help with a description of how the transmission speed sensor is powered/connected??? Cheers

Hi Guys, Here is my thought process... I am told by RB Motorsport that with a apexi power controller (the one where I keep the AFMs) and 1 bar of boost, that I can easily make 450 - 500 hp. The problem if I turn up the boost is that my nice (lucky find) 34,000km engine could easily get wrecked. The only other person in the UK to have done this conversion ended up with a hole in a piston after only 2 weeks of driving!!! My car is now the only one on the road in the UK and its the start of summer here. You guys cannot have driven one of these cars yet. When you do you will find that they are flipping lethal with a standard GTR engine as it is. I took my biker mate for a quick spin yesterday and without any prompting he blurted out that it was quicker than any bike he had been on! The point i'm making is that I haven't fitted the power controller yet and it hasn't been setup or mapped. In fact, when RB Motorsport checked it out the boost was spiking at 1.2 bar so Rod (to save any risk to my engine until we get it sorted & mapped) pulled the pipe to the boost solenoid and blocked it up. Once the Power FC is in and mapped then I will have almost twice as much power as I do now!! Having said all that, my 3 questions for anyone considering more than 500 hp would be:- In a car that weighs almost nothing, do you honestly need over 500 hp? Can the extra be used i.e. What difference is the extra hp above 500 actually gonna make? & Is that difference really worth the extra cash/design risk? Not forgetting that from what i have read, as soon as you go over 500 hp you enter the realm of all sorts of drive train problems and failures.... So - thats why I arrived at the decision to stick with the stock recircs which save me varying the Nissan tried, tested & robust stock design - again anyone please verify this??? but I have been told that they are good for 500hp??? Cheers

Hi Twainhart are you still with us? I have sent you a PM and would much appreciate your advice if you are??? Cheers

Hi Guys, Sorry for any confusion but I have no turbo experience/knowledge, no turbo technical language and pretty much no technical help other than HybribZ - so what the hell am I doing playing around with an Rb26 then??? Anyway, to clear up a misunderstanding that I caused, I am not feeding back into the airflow meters. I have no BOV or recirc valves so the pressure hammer ends up back at my R33 ceramic turbos - whoops! What I meant was that I am 'assuming' it ends up coming back out of the air flow meters. So where to next? Well I have decided to follow the advice of one of my ex girlfriends and "keep it simple stupid". The truth is we are not 100% certain why the recircs were used and why they were positioned as they are. It seems there is more to them than just emissions. Sooo, I have decided to install a set of recirc valves off an R33 pretty much as Nissan designed. I will fit the valves on the same side as the injectors and connect the two (vacume?) pipes up. I am lucky enough to have the same pipes dangling from my existing engine but I had blocked them up. I can simply connect them and make a bracket to mount the recircs close enough. On the intake side, I will fit the 'Y' shaped metal pipe into the two corresponding hoses on the intake side:- I will then get a piece of pipe fabricated to run throught the bottom hole in the radiator panel and cross the front of the car before returning back through the corresponding hole on the other side and meeting up with the recirc valves. I only want to make 450bhp so (I am told) the recircs should be fine. Plus, I can't stand loud gadget sounding motors. Our cars will be fast so we don't need to make them sound fast in order to try to compensate for something we don't have - do we? For example, today I booted my Z for pleasure. I didn't even know there was a AMG Merc close behind who thought I was trying to burn him off! I did burn him off and I stopped much quicker than he could too!!! He was clearly struggling to stop his heavy car in time at the traffic lights. Anyway, what do you guys think about doing it this way using the recircs? Cheers

I'm just doing this now and also need to make the decision. Currently my turbos vent back through the MAFs. The way i'm driving that won't last long! Below is a pic of the stock setup:- I know I could vent a BOV directly into the existing intake 'Y' shaped pipe. But - I wonder why Nissan chose to take the vent from the injector side of the intercooler when then could have vented at the turbo side and had a much shorter run of pipe directly into the intake??? I'm off the Glastonbury Festival now so won't be around to respond to anything till monday now. Cheers

I am not familiar with the RB25 setup but so long as the ecu controls an in-tank fuel pump then the same logic should apply. Just needs someone to prove it by doing it??? Good luck

Thanks Careless, I take it that this is for vehicle speed rather than engine revs? If it is then its too late for me as I have already ordered the CableX-box http://www.abbott-tach.com/cablex.htm. It certainly looks useful though for others to explore and is considerably cheaper than the CableX. As for the tacho, I have sent a PM to Twainheart and hopefully he will get back to me with some good info to help me get the stock tacho working. Cheers

Hi, Here below is a pic of the fuel lines:- There are no problems filling the tank. I know people have said that there will be air locks etc and the like but from my own experience of the tank totally emptying my wallet, I can say that those theories are a load of hot air! What I did with the spare outlets was to block them up. I used a short length of hose with a welded up pipe inserted in the other end. I should have instructed the welder to do it whilst all the work was being done on the tank but I'm stupid and overlooked it at the time! The big thing that I didn't do was install a new 'O' seal to the sender unit and my first tank of fuel leaked away because of this so don't let that happen to you. With the UK setup you need to curl the vent line round in a coil as shown in the 6th pic. I don't know why but all the uk cars have this pipe installed this way. Cheers

Hi The answer is yes to both questions. I am currently using a stock GTR ecu but plan to replace it with an Apexi Power FC. Rod at RB Motorsport is going to map the Apexi once I have it. Also, he has plugged in an Apexi to check my sensors as I do not have a diagnostics plug and it ran fine even on default settings. Cheers