Bishopsrock

I'm now stuck too. Having done the research and having got the toyota temp sender to power my stock temp gauge I have found it is much too wide to fit the temp sender hole in my RB26 GTR engine. Can anyone confirm that the Toyota temp sender has worked on a RB26 as well as a RB25 because I am beginning to suspect that the reports of it working have been made by those running RB25s but not from people running an RB26 - anyone??? Thanks

Ok, I have done something that is a little different and I thought I should document it for the benefit of others on Hybrid Z who may want to give it a go but who are unsure of what it will entail or whether it can be made to work properly. Whilst some people have obviously considered this route, I might be wrong, but I think that I am the first to actually do this??? Before going on, it is important that I confirm that I have fully finished this mod and that my car is fully working, has been tested by RB Motorsport and is on the road having passed a UK MOT. The benefits (as I saw them):- Firstly, it is virtually silent because pump pressure is relative to engine revs - I can't hear any pump noise as I drive or at idle. In fact the pump seems to switch off as soon as the fuel rail reaches the required pressure. Secondly, you should read up on this forum about people having a fuel pressure problem, having to buy & install a nismo regulator and then having a nightmare trying to configure it. Thirdly, the GTR in-tank pump is extremely complex being controlled by its own computer which is in turn controlled by the ecu - Nissan didn't go to all this trouble and expense for nothing. I'm sure they considered the ease and cash saving of simply bunging on a walbro pump or similar - but they didn't do that did they! This is what I did. I managed to buy a baffled US 260z relatively rust free tank. We had to cut two large access holes in the tank which were sealed with aero style fuel tank plates as shown below:- The access holes enabled us to fit the GTR fuel pump which sits in a metal shoe. The fuel pump itself has a special bag on the end of the pickup line. The bag and pickup line seem free to swing about with the fuel. I am told that if any part (even the tip of a corner) of this hi-tech bag is in contact with fuel then the pump will suck it up. Below is a picture of the pump mounted in its shoe inside the tank:- The next problem was how to get the power wires for the pump out through the tank. We had them embossed through one of the access plates by a process used in aero fuel tanks as shown in the two pictures below:- Ok, the pump is now mounted in the tank but thats not the end of the story because we need to mount the fuel pump computer and fuel pump relay which in the GTR are both mounted in the boot. I was short of space under the dash and so looked for a spot in the back of my 240z. I found that the vapour tank was in the right spot. I had always wanted to get rid of it and now was my chance. I replaced the US breather with a used UK fuel tank breather and disconnected all of the many hoses. I also blocked up the hose outlets on the tank. I then realised that I could cut the back off the vapour tank so that I was left with a perfect plate on which to mount the fuel pump electrics. I ground down the sharp edges and painted the inside of it white. The fuel pump computer, relay and fuse fitted perfectly as shown below:- Once connected and in place hey presto, other than the wires and a couple of screw heads, you can hardly notice that its there at all as shown below:- An added benefit could be that if you needed to disable the car, then it would be very sneaky to simply remove the fuel pump relay because no one would go looking for your trick in the vapour tank!!! If you decide to do this then please note that the GTR pump is very fragile and the service manual states that if it is knocked or dropped that it should be replaced and not re-used. This conversion has worked fine for me and the car is so quick that its unreal. I have no fuel delivery issues and am more than happy with how its turned out. Cheers

I have just put my car together different to you and might be missing something? Please can you tell us what the brass pipe coming out of the bung connects to and what its purpose is??? as I don't have one - yet? Cheers

Already got a quote for the x-box (approx $365 inc shiping to the uk) but I am very interested in how you got the stock rev counter to work??? Please will you post some info to enable me to track it down? Cheers

My R33 speed sensor has two wires coming off it in the loom:- 1. Yellow/Black stripe 2. Red/Grey stripe Does anyone know which of these connects to the R33 electric speedo? I have mounted the R33 electric speedo in my 240z speedo pod but am not sure which wire to use? I dont want to risk blowing anything after all the time I have spent making it fit! Cheers

Im amazed, not one but two 10K tachometers from a simple question asked way back in 2001. I haven't yet finally sorted/figured out how to get my existing tacho to work with my RB26. In the intereim I have just hooked up my RB tacho and my RB speedo like synthtk did. The wiring connections on the back of my R33 cluster were different though to those on synthtk's though! I will post the (how I did it) results once I get somewhere with it. Cheers

Thanks Bruce, your post from 2003 just helped me now in 2008! I checked the Atrol website and they are still in business making the speedo adapter - they call it 'cable x'. My conversion is the RB26 with a RB25DET tranny. I am making a total sleeper and so need the complete stock look to avoid letting the cat out of the bag - this product seems to be just what I need. I have emailed Atrol for a quote so lets hope they will ship to the UK. Cheers

Hi, Does anyone have the rear pin out info for the other gauges - specifically oil pressure and temperature??? Thanks Andy

Wow what an answer - after 7 years!!! I want my 73 240z to be a total sleeper. Thats why I need the stock gauges to work and no outward signs whatsoever as to whats lurking under the hood - thats going to be the big surprise! Z8Driver just posted a link to this company who make a device that will get your stock Z tach working with your hybrid engine TechnoVersions Website - TachMatch Anyway heres a pic of that 10k Tach for posterity as the ebay one will be gone soon:- Unfortunately at $259 its too expensive for me especially bearing in mind that I can't see it properly to check it out. Any further advice on getting my stock tach to work is welcome though??? Cheers

Great, I'm just trawling the posts here to try and get my stock tach working with my RB26DETT conversion. It isn't looking promising so i'm glad you posted this. Thanks

Sorry to bring this thread back from the dead - but i'm just wondering if there is a proper answer to this question yet? I'm just in the process of sorting out & hooking up my gauges to a Skyline RB26DETT mounted in my 73 240z. Thanks

This post is designed to enable you to connect your RB alternator to your 240z. It contains ideas and data from all the other posts - of which there are many. If you don't fancy hours of playing the role of a forensic detective uploading and cross referencing many threads then this post is for you. The RB alternator in this example is the standard R33 model - others could differ in terms of wire colour and if they do I will help you with that later on in the post. The forum expert on this topic is Z Car Nut - Steve Golik and I thank steve for his practical advice to others around which this thread is based. Connections - Your alternator will be earthed, have an 'A' terminal which sends charging power to the battery and have a 'T' shaped plastic plug containing two wire connections. One will be an 'L' connection which goes to a switched live i.e. it is only live when the ignition is on. The other will be a 'S' connection that is a voltage sensing wire that determins the alternator output. This needs to be connected as close to the battery terminal as possible and preferably directly to the battery terminal. Wiring - Your choices are to either use the existing Z car loom or use the skyline small lower engine loom that came with your engine. There are a lot of posts that strongly advise against using a modern high output 90 amp alternator with a 35 year old Z car loom which was in its day only designed for a low output alternator. Below is a pic of the plastic plug connector on the alternator:- Top left, you can also see the insulated wire connector to the 'A'terminal. There are two wires connecting to the plastic plug, white with red stripe and Turquoise with a red band. I traced these to two plastic plug connectors coming off the lower engine loom near the starter motor as in the pic below:- On my alternator the turquoise with a red band was the 'S' Sensing connection and so I cut this at the plug and extended it to the battery +terminal. The white with red stripe is the 'L' connection and I connected this to the hot when on connection, black with white stripe, in my old (73 240z) voltage regulator plug - see pic below. (You don't need an external voltage regulator any more so just unplug it, unbolt it and take it out). The 'A'Terminal is pretty obvious and shown in the first pic, but it is easy to confuse the two 'S' and the 'L' wires that go to the plastic plug on the alternator. What if yours are different colours? Well, I read an old post by Zcar Nut who described how to tell them apart. Using a multimeter unplug the plastic plug and measure the resistance between each of the two connections and ground (you can use the alternator case as ground). The resistance between the 'S' terminal and ground will be significantly higher than that of the 'L' terminal and ground. Now that you are all hooked up there is just one last thing to do. You must insert a diode between your 'L' terminal (white with red stripe) and the connection of it to the hot when on wire (Black with white stripe). The purpose of this with your new 90 amp alternator is to stop electric feedback which will prevent you from turning off the car. Buy a simple N5402 diode from Maplin or Radioshack as shown in the pic below:- It will allow current to flow only one way. Note the grey stripe on one end. Solder the end with the grey stripe on it to the wire from the 'L' terminal and the other end to the Black with white stripe wire that is hot when on. See pic below:- Your alternator 'A' terminal will already be connected to the small engine loom so what I did was bolt this connection straight into a mega fuse holder and ran a lead from the other end direct to the battery +ve terminal. Now check the voltage at the battery with the engine running. It should be between 14.4 and 15 volts. If it is then hey presto you have just connected your alternator. Just to recap here is a quick summary:- -'A' post charging wire - to battery + terminal -'S' sensing wire (turquoise with red band) to battery + terminal - 'L' hot when on wire - to power source live when ign on - Diode - wire in with striped end going to 'L' terminal Please note that 260z & 280z cars are different and this post will only be of limited help to you. Hope this helps.

I just got my car running over the last couple of weeks but I started the project in December 2005!!! I seemed to be spending all my money flying parts over from the US every week. Like you I was eternally frustrated about progress and life moves on too, you have other priorities that you can't ignore. I, like everyone else here, think you should stick at it. Pick one job at a time and do that job, then move onto the next. I can absolutely guarentee you that its worth it. Just think of the old eating an elephant story. You can't eat an elephant all at one go, but you could eventually if you had a single spoonfull each day. Good luck mate - just keep plodding on and then one day as if by magic it will be finished. The smile on your face when it comes on boost will be so big that it won't even fit inside the car - you will have to open both windows to let your big cheesy grin hang out! Take care

Hi Guys, Thanks for all that info and help - this forum really is amazing. I struggled like hell to get my tranny to go go back in and eventually did it with my mate who is built like a Bull Elephant at the front and me holding on to the rear suspension and pushing forward with both feet on the tail end. It would be fair to say that this is not the most easy of clutches to change. The 10mm longer collar definately helped and it feels like the throw out bearing just clears the cover with it on. But after I put everything back together and started it up I still could not get it into gear! So I put my original spacer back in but then I couldnt get the clutch to bite and had no drive. Next, I put a small 4mm thick bolt beneath the cylinder rod and hey presto, I had a clutch. Its still not right though because my throw out bearing is probably in contact with the cover now. All I can do next is get a new master and a new slave - then at least I will know that everything else is spot on. If anyone has any new ideas please let me know as i'm running out? Anyway onto the juicy bit - I took it for a short spin. I have driven a couple of Ferraris, my business partner has an Audi RS6 and my mate has got one of the last Lotus Esprit Turbos ever made but my simple 240z was unreal. It came on boost and I got ground rush going forward! It is just so quick its utterly amazing and thats without any mods!!! Right now I know my conversion is worth every penny and has definately been worth the wait. Cheers

Thanks for that guys, I have today been to the breakers yard and looked at a new R33 RB25DET transmission. I couldn't believe it but it had exactly the same size of carrier as I have and the fork looked the same as well. So no one has switched the RB parts for some ones from another model that don't work. I then went on a mad transmission hunt - these guys just couldn't get the idea that I was looking for a longer throw out bearing carrier. I can't believe it but I was lucky (for a change) and found one! I pressed the new bearing off the original carrier and onto my lucky find which is about 10mm longer. Also, I had a chat with RB Motorsport here in the UK and Rod told me that the Nismo slave cylinder is a thinner bore and so would help if all else fails. So thats what I am on with now - but I am having difficulty getting the box to go back in on my own - maybe using a socket as a clutch alignement tool wasn't such a good idea!!! I will keep you posted but its definately not coming off again! Has anyone looked at the differences between the standard cylinder and the NISMO one? Thanks for the idea about the master cylinder Slow_Old_Car. At 5/8 it is the right size but if the travel is less than it could be then this could also buy me a bit more push. I didn't want to shim up the pivot because of the way that the arm attaches to it - once I get this back in I don't want any risk that I might have to take it out again. Anyway I just need to get the box into the flywheel to find out if my new clutch & extra 10mm on the throw out collar does the trick.

Thanks for helping, Do you have a measurement for your collar or a spare that you could measure for me? Cheers

Welcome ZGTR, You joined at the right time - we have just got a decent wiring thread to guide you in connecting the electrics up (the black art) and if your going for a stock look? motorsport auto have just released new seat belts - you will be needing these!!! Good luck mate.

Ok - 2 years & 6 months doing this conversion (and a few other mods) - I did the wiring myself and it started first time:-D - but I still can't drive it because of my clutch - Gutted!!! My engine is a R33GTR and the guys who sold me the gearbox said that they though it 'may' be out of an R34DET. Sorry if I don't make 100% sense here but i'm dead tired - I will do my best though. I could not get the car into gear. I thought that my clutch was stuck on. So I did the usual - but no joy. Here are pics of my slave and master cylinder so as to set the scene. I bled the system with a friend pumping the pedal - made no difference. So, I made an improvisation to the slave cylinder to take all the slack out of the plunger and the arm. I thought it would at least get me going. Below is a pic of my modification:- After giving the plunger loads of extra forward travel by extending its length, I could only get it into gear if I start the car in gear. Even with full depression of the pedal, the clutch was not fully disengaged and the car needed a firm foot on the brake to stop it moving forward. I had been reading everything I could about clutches on HybridZ but there is not much that I could find on our RB forum and other forums were talking about different setups. I didn't put the box and engine together myself and I used a secondhand clutch - bad move I know but I thought that I would probably burn my first clutch out quickly anyway. So I decided that the problem was most likely with the clutch. Most, most likely because the pressure plate was on the wrong way round or something! Soo I got a brand new clutch, got the first aid kit ready and pulled off my gearbox. WTF - the clutch looked ok and was on the correct way round!!! Below are the pics - old next to the new:- Next the clutch Plates:- Just for completeness below is a pic of my clutch fork & release bearing:- My problem is this - because the old clutch was fitted correctly and because I couldn't find anything wrong with it, I just know that when I put my gearbox back in tomorrow, that I am still going to have the same problem!!! Please will you guys study these pics and see if its obvious to you why I cant get the clutch to fully disengage??? Thanks

Cripes I can't believe it!!! Armed with Chris's instructions, a simple multi-meter, a soldering iron, shrink wrap and a couple of short lengths of cable, I joined up the spaghetti pile that is my car electrical system. I should point out that of the ten or so auto electricians I phoned up, only one came to look at my car and after seeing the spaghetti he told me that my particular job was not for him. He walked away quickly making a telephone sign with his hand against his ear saying "give me a bell if you get stuck with it mate". I was a particularly reluctant auto-electrician but I literally had no choice. I was on my own with no 'good buddy' to help me or anyone else for that matter other than the Hybrid Z community. The only company I had at all was my neighbours cat (yep we were dumb and dumber) that watched me walk back and forth with great interest and then tried to sneak into my house when it thought I wasn't looking - a distraction I didn't need! To make matters more complicated, I put the GTR intank fuel pump in my new 260z tank and powered it up using the GTR fuel pump computer module & relay. (I cut the back off the vapour tank and used it as a plate to mount the computer and relay on) So you can probobly guess that I was honestly ready for the acrid smell of burning plastic. I pictured myself on the phone ordering a new ECU, Loom, Injectors etc - in fact I thought I would most likely be ending up replacing everything electrical and sensitive to current. What happened stunned me completely and utterly - I connected the battery, put the key in the ignition, heard the fuel pump spin and the swish of fuel being returned to the tank and then silence - I thought its probobly broken down! I went on to turn the ignition key further, then heard the starter turn and on the first go it just started - it didn't even turn over for any significant time - it just started like I swithed it off yesterday - how amazing is that - im still in shock!!! This is all a complete ringing endorsement of Chris's thread. If you are about to wire up your RB26DETT into a 240z and are worried about it, then my advice is stop worrying and trust this advice - with the benefit of this thread you CAN do it yourself - and it REALLY DOES work - I should know I just did it!!! Thanks Chris

I stuck a screwdriver in it and had a good probe. The inside looks black as though its the inside of the sump but the probe stops against hard metal which suggests that it is sealed/welded on the inside. Sooo I filled it up and guess what - no oil leak! I can't believe it - its like a Japenese comedian fitted a fake plug body to the sump for a laugh. Its not even as though its a bad fake - it looks the genuine item - just like a sump plug should fit in it and exactly like oil would pour out of it if you tried to fill the engine. I feel well sheepish about this now though!!! Hopefully this thread will be of help to anyone else having the same confusion and also to those people looking for a sump plug part number. Thanks to everyone for helping me sort this out.

Thanks Careless but I have just pulled a plug from the Micra engine on your list and it is still the wrong size plug. Looks like it will fit and even starts to turn but after a quarter of a turn it begins to tighten up and then very quickly locks solid. Below is a pick of the two new off the shelf plugs that I have also tried. I put two brass connectors next to them to give an idea of size. The larger one is the same as the Micra Engine plug that I pulled today. Below is a picture of the outside of the sump - just in case anyone recognizes it? Finally here below are two pics of the threaded section. You can see below that there is a narrowing of the hole to form a seat against which I suppose the shaft of the plug should connect? This really is less simple than it appears! Careless - thanks for all your help to date - any new ideas? The last thing I want to have to do is rip the sump off - but its not looking good is it? Thanks

Thanks for the extra info Careless - I very much appreciate all your help with this. I am now off out in the pouring rain to the breakers yard - the only thing standing in the way of me and my first attempt to start the car is this ****ing sump plug. I started the project in December 2005 and I just can't wait any longer!!! Cheers

Careless, You are a complete and utter star - thanks very much for the info - I will get them ordered on Monday. If I am ever in Canada I will look you up and get you a beer for this. Cheers Mate

After 3 years I'm finally about to try to start the engine but can't because I don't have the correct sump plug - can you imagine how i'm feeling now!!! I have tried a standard large Nissan plug (right size but wrong thread) and a small 200zr plug (too small & wobbles around in the hole) but neither will fit. The size of the hole appears to be approx 14mm. Please can anyone help identify the sump plug I need? The sump part number is 11110-20P00 Oil Pan (Rear Sump). I got the part number off this forum and ordered it from Courtesy Nissan. Please can anyone help with:- A part number for the plug? A description of the size & thread? OR A car that was fitted with the sump plug I need? Thanks

Hi Chris, Without your thread I wouldn't have been able to understand my wiring or connect it up - I'm more than happy that I could add something - Thanks a million mate!