Bishopsrock

Thanks Chris & Chrism for your replies. I think that I have got this sorted now so I will write it up below and contribute to your thread. The usual proviso that you should check and satisfy yourself that this is correct before copying me and powering anything up applies. There is no warranty with this info so please don't blame me if things go wrong! IMPORTANT - this information on what I did is for those people doing the RB26DETT swap only. With the RB26DETT conversion you must wire up the dropping resistor to power up the injectors otherwise you will damage your injectors. You can either buy an off the shelf dropping resistor and wire it in yourself or do it the easy way like me as set out below: On the GTR the dropping resistor is located on a metal plate bolted to the injector side strut tower which also accommodates the PCM Valve (boost solenoid). The dropping resistor is a shiny oblong aluminum covered box with a solid inside. There will be seven wires coming out of it - 6 black and one white all ending in a grey plug. When you buy your motor make sure that you get the dropping resistor and to make life easier also make sure that you get the plug that connects to it with about 6 - 7 inches of wire to spare so that you can then easily connect onto it when your doing the install. The car that my engine came out of was a JDM R33 GTR. If your engine came from a different model then the colours of wire in your setup may be different. Essentially, power goes to the injectors via the dropping resistor as shown in the diagram in the post above provided by Chrism. You need to find the wires leading to the injectors and then connect these to the dropping resistor. Then you need to provide power to the dropping resistor itself. The injector power wires in my R33 loom were coloured: 1 - Red 2 - Red/Blue Stripe 3 - Red/Black Stripe 4 - Red/Green Stripe 5 - Red/White Stripe 6 - Red/Yellow Stripe I traced them to a double plug connector leading from the eccs connection with the injector harness, past the turbos and towards the front of the car. I verified that they linked to the injectors using a test meter. The injector has two wires, a ground trigger linked to the eccs and a positive feed linked to the dropping resistor. For the avoidance of any doubt the wires we are talking about are NOT the injection trigger wires which link directly to the eccs and are predominantly white in clour. The wires in this plug were the same colours as those leading to the dropping resistor. I cut them off the plug and directly connected them to the dropping resistor using solder connections covered with shrink wrap. Because I had got the dropping resistor connecting plug, I was able to simply connect each colour coded wire to its counterpart wire of the same colour. This has placed my dropping resistor on the same side of the car as the turbos but a little further forward. You could easily shorten or lengthen the wires to enable you to place the resistor anywhere you please. Next I needed to get power through the GTR bulkhead plug. To do this I selected a redundant heavy gauge thick solid yellow wire and cut this both sides of the black bulkhead plug. This then gave me a clean route through the bulkhead without any cutting of the plug or any messy extra wires. I gave the injectors power by connecting the yellow wire into the thick solid red wire AF04 that Chris uses to power up the injectors in the RB25. I then extended it and connected the other end to the white power wire for the dropping resistor. Hey presto - you have just powred up your RB26DETT injectors via the dropping resistor. Hope this helps.

Hi, This is my first go at using pics so please stick with me if it doesnt work out. Below is a pic of the dropping resistor taken off my R33 RB26DETT:- Its purpose is to supply the injectors with a lower voltage than the car normally operates on. Im told that the reason for this is to enable the injectors to work properly with a weak battery so that the car will start. Consequently, if you start your RB26DETT without a dropping resistor then you will fry your injectors by feeding them a higher voltage than they are designed to take - so its vital that you use it and connect it properly. In the Skyline it connects directly into the engine relay box as in this pic below:- Please can anyone confirm how to wire the dropping resistor in? The wiring diagram seems to show it providing power directly to pins 101, 103, 105, 110, 112, 114 of the ECCS. However, it looks like these wires run directly to the injectors themselves rather than coming from the dropping resistor? Please can anyone clear this up for me? Thanks

Hi Chris, Thats great - im on it right now. Thanks

Anyone any advice on the wires that need to be earthed post above? - i'm in the middle of it right now and could do with some help. Thanks

Im doing the swap without the inner half of the main white plug (as shown above) that connects the engine/ECU harness to the inner car wiring loom. Im connecting my RB26 engine harness to my 240z loom using an off the shelf simple 15 pin bullet connector. I will be soldering the wires onto the pins as well as crimping them. I have all the other connections sorted now but cannot figure out for sure which wires from my two white engine harness plugs should go to earth - i.e. lead to the Main Solid Black Ground on the inner half of the white plug shown above. Chris, please can you (or anyone in the know) define this to help those doing it without the in-car side of the loom like me? Thanks

Just to provide a little more info for people living in countries where the #TS198 isnt available - The Toyota Dealership Part Number is 83420-16020. In the UK this costs £22.88 plus VAT. If you want to pull one then here are a few choices that it was fitted to:- Toyota Camry 2.0 L4 88-91 Toyota Camry 2.0 L4 LE 88-91 Toyota Camry 2.0 L4 Le All Track 88-91 Toyota Camry 2.0 L4 DLX 88-91 Toyota Celica 2.0 L4 GT 86-89 Toyota Celica 2.0 L4ST 87-89 Toyota Celica 2.0 L4 GTS Sport 86-89 Hope this is helpfull.

I have two blue relays from the Rb26 sat on my desk but am not sure if they are the ones you are looking for. They sit pushed into a metal plate (which is used to secure them) with one single hole drilled in the top of it. If this sounds right? then the numbers of both are 2523079971.

Chris, A thousand thanks. I am waiting to get my car back and will follow your info for my stage 2 which is the wiring-up part. I will help out with anything new that I have for the RB26DETT. Superb effort mate. Thanks

Whilst this subject is fresh - has anyone successfully used the Arizona Z intercooler? I bought one thinking it was made to fit my 240z but now it looks like the pipes will need to have a greater than 90 deg bend to get them back through without chopping up my front panel. If anyone has done this please can you send me a few pics of your pipework? Thanks

Hi Chris, Big congrats on getting your motor up and running - hey now you can have years of endless fun setting up the handling!!! Im still trying to fathom how to make intercooler bends over 90 degrees to take the Arizona Z intercooler I bought through the existing holes in the front panel - anyone? Well done Chris im made up for you.

Thanks Chris, My car has been delayed but will be back with me when I get home from my Holiday on 2nd september. I too will try to add to this thread as I do the wiring and hopefully it will be of some help to others.

Looks like I am going to have to let myself loose on the wiring without any firm guidance. Wish me luck!

Has anyone successfully transplanted an R200 skyline clutch type LSD into a R200 case for install on a 73 240z. We got the clutch pack in the case and set up properly, but the stub axles would not fit - they look the same but are a slightly different size. I don't know what to do next - does anyone have a good idea as to how I can get out of this with a working diff? With thanks in anticipation

Hi all, This thread appears to have been going for over a year now and quite honestly im still not totally sure as to how to wire up my R33 RB26 engine harness? I need to work this out over the next couple of weeks as I expect to be starting the car for the first time in 3 - 4 weeks time. I have the R33 engine manual but don`t want to get it wrong and short the whole engine out! Does anyone have any further help to add on this topic? Thanks

Hi all, Just found this interesting tale on the GTR.CO.UK forum. I cant find it on this forum and so it might not have been mentioned here. The thread title is 'Setting The Record Straight' and is definitely worth a read if you are considering spending top dollar on a rebuild. I hope the link below works: http://www.gtr.co.uk/forum/upload/showthread.php?t=31170&highlight=engine+failure

Hi Fentin Furey, I so much recognise your engine troubles. I myself am on my second engine having so far spent just under £5,000 GBP for both - ouch! The first engine was running but without a radiator. When we went to replace the water pump thick black emulsified oil dripped out! The head was completely fried and had cracked internally. I have my fingers crossed right now for engine number two as we havent hooked it up yet. It sounds like you have got your trouble all sorted now though, but I bet there are many others in the same boat - but who just dont wanna talk about it! These engines are definately much more fragile than their reputation is. Good luck mate - I look forward to hearing more about your conversion.

Hi Birdman z Thanks for the re-assurance. I have high hopes for this engine. I bought it from a UK specialist supplier of complete JDM engines for transplant. It cost £2,475 GBP for everything under the bonnet that I wanted including the loom and ecu. The reason I bought a second engine is purely down to time. Its summer here right now but there is only 3 months of this left and i want to drive my car. I am twin tracking the rebuild of the head on my first engine and will soon have a complete engine to sell for transplant myself and so hopefully recover most of the cost. I think that anyone buying one of these engines absolutely must check the radiator for signs of emulsified oil and also do a compression test to identify any signs of failure in the head hasket due to warping or any alarming compression differences between cylinders. I will of course post my impressions of the engine once its running. Thanks

Ok here are the results. The engine had a damaged radiator and broken intercooler so it was only fired up for two minutes to demonstrate that it worked. I removed all plugs and got the following readings on a battery crank without depressing the accelerator. Taking the cylinder closest to the engine fan as No 1. 1 - 150 2 - 150 3 - 140 (148 at second attempt after re-tightening the tester) 4 - 148 5 - 148 6 - 148 Does anyone know if this small amount of difference in compression between the sets of cylinders is anything to worry about? or why it happens? The engine was said to have convered 52,616 Kilometers. I checked the gauges and there was no sign of the instrument cluster having been opened or tampered with! Thanks

I have one spare in excellent condition that I am about to offer for sale. Th bad news is that I live in England! I dont know what its worth but was going to ask £50 plus shipping - does this sound reasonable? Let me know if you need the transfer box and windage? plates? Andy

Hi Geoff, Do you mean the original RB 26 aluminium oil pan with the transfer box mounted on then side?

Thanks Birdman Z. I will post the results with the stated engine mileage when I get back tomorrow.

Hi thanks for responding, I read that post but I still dont have a guide as to what I should consider a pass and what is considered a fail? If my second hand engine comes out at the same figures as the RB manual says then great - but I somehow very much doubt that it will. Im gonna have to make a decision on the spot with a lot of cash at stake and so any further guidance would be appreciated. Thanks

I am off to buy my second R33 RB26DETT motor tomorrow. The first one (although running) turned out to have a cracked head so second time lucky for me - I hope! I want to do a compression test on the new engine but don't know what figures I should consider to be a pass and what the threshold for a fail should be. Please can anyone help? With thanks in anticipation

Hi Stony, With that level of encouragement (use of the word indestructable) I am gonna have to give it 100%. I am off to collect my second GTR engine (old oil in water problems) next week and will also try to pick up a set of GTR half shafts so that I can start figuring out what needs to be done. Thanks

Thanks Stony, I am trying to get my car on the road before summer ends here and need a quick fix - just a stub that will fit to get the diff hooked up to the half shafts. So it looks like I may end up slamming in a standard diff whilst I sort out some suitable GTR half shafts and mod them to fit.... unless there are any other suggestions? Cheers Andy