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mditt8671

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Everything posted by mditt8671

  1. Hi logan1, I came across this helpful article a while ago, and I'm using it as a guide for my 350 build. Pretty good information there. The Goodwrench Quest
  2. The carburetor that came with the Z is a Rochester Quadrajet, number 7056544. Is the Holley a better carb than the Quadrajet? The carb looks a little rough cosmetically, I do want to make sure the engine compartment is looking nice so my choice is to buy a new carb like the Holley or maybe I can have the Quadrajet cleaned up and refreshed...
  3. Whomever did it did a really good job on it; the ID plate on the firewall was removed and replace after rustproofing. It almost looks factory. There are some spots under the battery where it has come away from the metal and there is some rust, though it doesn't appear to be very bad (famous last words, I know). Maybe I'll get some of that stuff and see how it takes off the rustproofing in that area and if it's not too bad I'll do the rest of it...
  4. I have a 1971 Series 1 240Z, and the entire engine compartment is rustproofed, I assume by the dealer. The rustproofing SEEMS to have done a decent job, as everything seems solid as far as I can tell. I am going to remove the engine this winter to thoroughly degrease it, paint it and do some other work on it. While I had it out, I am thinking about removing the rustproofing from the engine compartment so that when I get the car repainted I can have the engine bay painted to match as well (I am probably going to display it at a few local small-time shows). What's your thoughts on what I should do? I am of the opinion that the painted bay will look better AND I really don't know how good the metal is unless I see it. However, I know it's going to be a LOT of work to get it all out of there. I've started to look at products like Peel Away 7 to see how much time and effort it will save me. Removing Undercoating with Peel Away 7
  5. Hmmm. Now I'm debating on what to do. I was thinking about pulling the engine to completely degrease it and do a thorough cleaning and paint job over the winter and also try to remove the rustproofing from the engine compartment. Now I'm thinking that if I pull it out, maybe I should go ahead and convert it to the JTR mounts? I'm probably overdoing this, but I'd rather do it right once rather than put it back together just to redo it in the future.
  6. Thanks! I did some digging around and it seems like I have the Scarab conversion, according to this photo, correct? So I might have more clearance issues than the JTR conversion...
  7. Any ideas at all? I want to start ordering what I need but I'd like to know if it would fit... am I safe to buy the Air Gap manifold, I imagine that I'll need to get a different air filter but I'm ok with that...
  8. OK, I bought a 1971 240Z with a 350 SB already in it from here (71 240Z V8 4 Speed Muncie Manual), the stock heads though were bad and I was able to get a set of Vortec heads with it. It's missing the ignition coil as well as a vortec intake manifold. I'm new to working on engines (besides changing starters, etc) but I'm very willing to learn. I am attempting to put together the parts list, I am looking at the Edelbrock 75164 Performer RPM Air-Gap Intake Manifold. I am trying to follow this guide up through page 3, maybe 4 to get some boosted horsepower. I'm planning on putting the car in some local small-time shows after I get it complete as well. I want the car to be streetable, take it to a few shows and have the engine look good but don't want to go crazy with horsepower. Will the manifold I'm looking at be a good candidate for my build, without deviating too much from the article's guidelines? Any hood clearance issues or anything that I should be concerned about? I don't want to cut a hole in my hood. I pretty much want to do a buy-once cry-once to get around 375-400hp from the SBC. I may put another cam in it, but not until next year or so and depending on whether I think it's necessary. Also, a recommendation for a good ignition coil or other solution? I was looking at the MSD 8203 but I have seen some bad reviews about MSD reliability... Thanks!
  9. I need a driver's side interior upper quarter panel trim piece (that goes around the quarter panel window) for a Series I 240Z. The one in my Z has some cracks & deterioration. Let me know what you have! Thanks
  10. This is my console right now: It has a muncie 4 speed manual transmission and it comes up in the correct place. The spots for the choke lever are still there. They were just covered up with carpet. I bought the car this way, I don't know what is what yet. The heads were off of it when I bought it and I need to get it running. I'm trying to piece together the stuff that should be there, bit by bit. Is that what most people do with their conversions, run them with an electric choke?
  11. Just bought a Series 1 1971 with a 350 SBC. Has a Rochester 4bbl carb. The car came without the choke assembly on the console. I am attempting to restore the inside to as close to stock as possible, so I've been looking for the missing pieces. Can the stock choke assembly be used with other carbs, or does it only work with the stock carb? Thanks!
  12. I just bought a Series I 240Z with a 350 SBC and everything was removed from the center console. I've been trying to find a good photo of exactly what I need to get this console looking right but haven't had much luck. I did see the choke assembly that I'll need, and it looks like there's a plastic molded piece that should go the length of the console as well? Is there anything else I'm missing? Is the choke assembly helpful to have on the short block hybrids, or should I just leave it off (there was some carpet glued over the area shown above. Thanks!
  13. Sorry, wasn't thinking. The upper left rear hatch trim corner piece.
  14. Looking for the left top corner rear hatch trim piece (chrome) for an early 240Z. Trying to avoid buying the whole trim kit since the rest is all there and looks good. Also looking for a set of inspection lids in good condition. Thanks
  15. Well, my budget is somewhat open-ended depending on the quality of the car and what it brings. I'm thinking about doing (or better yet, buying) a hybrid, but I'm open minded about keeping it historically correct if I happen to find a strong running one in great shape. Both are cool in their own way. I haven't had a chance to check it out in person yet because it's an hour away and I've been indecisive about whether I should even go see it because of the sunroof.
  16. This Z is near me, I asked for more pics and it really seems like it doesn't have much rust for a PA car: It does, though, have a sunroof. I really don't want one. I can weld and have access to a MIG (I may even buy one of my own if I end up getting a car I need to work on)... I just think that getting a donor roof and putting it on myself is beyond my abilities. I don't have any bodywork experience (yet) and that seems to be a lot more involved than patching some rust spots. But that just seems to be a pretty rust-free car for living in PA! Thoughts?
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