Jackhammer

These are the latest addition to my quest to strengthen and connect the sub frame. These are bolt in instead of welded due to the fact I have already finished the underside of the car completely and did not want to have to re-do the burned areas that welding would cause. These tie the re-enforced floor pan frame rails and strengthened engine bay frame rails to the main rear sub frame behind the seats. This will work together with the Top End Performance 3 way front and rear strut braces. I opted to go this route instead of the roll cage approach because the car is built to be show and go versus a regular track driven car. It will be interesting to see how this all holds up considering the fact the SBC is going be generating somewhere around 450 HP. Just another approach to beefing up the sub frame.

I have just answered my own question ...with more searching:redface: . I found the answer in my JTR Conversion Manual that I received in the mail yesterday. It's a wonderful thing ....

The vast majority of the later t5 (World Class) transmissions I see for sale are for or out of Mustang 5.0's. Are they the same as the more difficult to find Camaro/Firebird V8 t5 tranny? Obviously... the bell housings are different but other than that... can the Mustang t5 tranny hook up to the SBC bell housing? Sorry...If it is a bit elemental for some...but some input would be greatly appreciated.

I appreciate your input. I am in Houston and we have a few floatin' around and your insight can help to flush 'em. My concern is that cam. Even if everything else checks out. This will be used as a streeter and I think it might be to lumpy for that. What are your thoughts?

Thanks guys. This is exactly the type feedback I was looking for. I know enough to be dangerous and I was having the same concerns and questions. I needed some additional validation. Too much is at stake for me to start half stepping on one of the key components on this project. The cam is a big concern. The legitimacy to what is being offered is another. I believe I will stick to my original plan of getting the engine from a GM Powertrain Dealer or a reputable re-builder. I will at least have a warranty and the piece of mind I am getting what I am paying for and also better able to choose the specs suited to the cars intended purpose. That is worth more than the prospect of saving a few hundred bucks and "MAYBE" getting a diamond in the rough.

I would like some assistance from you guys. If you please. This engine is for sale locally. Below is the description cut and pasted from the ad. Is this a suitable candidate for the SBC conversion I will be doing in the next 2 months. Is this a good, not so good or exceptional price for what is being described? I have not contacted them as yet ...I wanted some opinions first. I appreciate the input. Jack 350 4 bolt main block steel crank lightweight balanced rods [new] 200,000 psi rod bolts speed pro 30 over pistons 10 to 1 new 318*510 lift hyd grind cam brass freeze plugs new 487x heads rebuilt fresh 202 valves pocket ported double roller chain gasket kit $750.00 Serious inquiries only. No trades No Bull$hit

Thanks...I checked out their sight. The braces look good. I am wondering though if the cross brace will clear the carb/air intake on a SBC? It looks like it could be an issue. I will have to call them to find out. Jack

I just used the bed liner on the inside floor boards. Sandblasted everything that could fit in a 4 ft. blast cabinet. Everything else was scraped, wire brushed and sanded down to bare metal with a mud buster. Best of luck to you on your project. Inspiration is good and so are some deep pockets.

POR 15...it was used inside and out. I have since applied Dupli-Color truck bed liner and dyna-matted it.

I appreciate all of the input so far. To recap... I am hearing triangular strut bracing on the front, tying front floor rails to the rear sub frame and the proposed brace may help some at least it would not hurt. Then would the solution be... use the proposed brace and tie (bolt) it together with 1/8" steel frame rails to the existing floor frame rails. They would be bolted from the inside just behind the front seat cross brace to the existing floor rails and conform to the floor and attach to the rear sub frame cross piece and proposed brace. Does that sound like overkill or should I eliminate the proposed brace and just run the bolted in rails to the rear sub? I have also noted the emphasis on the triangular strut bracing up front. What do you recommend for the rear brace.... just a straight one connecting them together? Thanks Again, Jack

I would like to solicit some advice and or comments on a rear sub frame brace I am considering having fabricated and then bolting it in. I have included below a picture of my idea and placement of the brace. Here is my situation. I am finished with the restoration of the chassis and suspension (pictures are in my gallery). In addition the outside paint work is done as well. Bottom line is I have decided to install a SBC... possibly a crate Ram Jet in the 300-350 HP range. I was... up until this month just going to modify an L28 and be done with it. But... I have the V8 bug. I am now concerned that the rear sub frame needs reinforced/tied together. Since I have completed the chassis, I do not want to do additional welding and causing burnt paint,grinding and all the related redo. Thus.. I thought I could get the needed reinforcement by fabbing up a brace inside between the rear wheel wells with 1/8" steel plate and then bolting it through into the sub frame cross piece that holds the differential front brace. The picture should give you a pretty good idea of what I am considering. Initially, when I had the car on the rotesserie... I welded in 1/8" channel (cap over)on the front frame rails from the firewall to the radiator brace. I also welded in baddog frame/floor rails underneath on the new floor pans. I am confident the front 2/3's of the car is strong. It is just tying into the rear sub frame that I am attempting here. I will also be using strut braces. So... if I do what I am proposing do you think I will have enough structural strength to prevent the usual stress related problems associated with the V8 conversions? I am only going to be using it on the street... no repeated hard launches and track racing. Maybe... an occasional track day every now and then. Thanks for your input. Jack http://album.hybridz.org/data/500/medium/Sub_Frame_Support.JPG

I wanted to take this time to wish all the "Hybrid Z" community a Merry Christmas and a prosperous "2006". I am Thankful for this forum as I have gained and continue to gain a tremendous amount of information the short time I have been a member and appreciate the helpful spirit that is displayed. Again..... "Merry Christmas and Best Wishes for a Prosperous 2006" Jack

Thanks Joshua, There's always more than one way to address a situation. Sounds like you handled the issue well. In this case I wanted a solid end to end piece so as to give it a seamless appearance. To address the issue of rust... POR 15 products were used extensively through out. The rails were flanged on each end and welded solid, seam sealed, POR 15 top coats,more primer,color coat and clear coated. I am confident it is sealed. The use of the car will be extremely limited to occasional and shows. Post some pics ...I'd like to see her...

I hope I am not providing over kill on this subject. So... sorry if I am. I have provided below my photo bucket album with the pictures of my frame rail and floor pan project on my "early 74 260" from this year. The floor pans are MSA's heavier gage pans. The frame rails are from Bad Dog. I also used Bad Dogs seat brackets and single point jack plates (not shown). More to the point of this post is the problem I had with the front engine compartment frame rails. The car had sustained a major hit on the front left side at some point and was repaired. It left the frame rail however looking like a piece of ribbon macaroni. Unacceptable for what I want the end result to be. Since the integrity (strength) of the rail was not a major concern ...I decided to cap over the rails with 1/8" thick channel from the fire wall to the front radiator cross piece. I first checked as best as I could several measurements and confident that the frame is squared and true. I will let the pictures tell the story. Just a side note: Before this I have never done any thing like this before. I could change oil, do tune ups and turn a wrench some. I borrowed a friends Lincoln mig welder, replaced my 20 Amp garage breaker with a 40 Amp. Practiced welding on some scrap metal after my friend showed me some basics and then I just jumped in. Bottom line if I can do it most anybody can. http://photobucket.com/albums/d81/jackhammer02/

I used Modern Motorsports Rear Disc Conversion. The Calipers I used are "92 " 240 SX and the E Brake hooked up perfectly.