Greywolf

Just so no one runs around US junkyards looking at 70s cars...the XLT Maverick in Australia is a rebadged Nissan Patrol. The US straight six is a very different animal than the TB42. Ben

300-6 uses the SBF bellhousing and flywheel (although it is internally balanced so you need a balanced flywheel). They can be made to rev, but it's pricey. Also, heavy, but probably lighter than the SBF/SBC engines. Tall, low revver and long. Look at the 200/250 inlines from Ford. Can also be made to rev, and are light and not a lot bigger than the 2.8 with larger displacement. 250 uses SBF bellhousing. Of course, US versions with poor-flowing 1bbl intake cast into the head are...less good. To put it mildly. Ben

...if you ask the guys at JTR, Jag engines don't even belong in Jags! Ben (Note to Jag lovers: I used to restore old MK, XK and "E" Jags...I liked the Jag engines, but got tired of the owners).

Well, as I'm sure you know, the number is based on engine size (2.4 through 3.0 liter). As for the Z versus the ZX, the major redesign of the Z car in 1979 was aimed at putting previous "Z" owners into a car that was more fitting with thier status as "Z car drivers that are 5 to 10 years older". This is similar to the fact that a 1977 Honda Civic bears little semblance to a 2007 Civic. Anyway, when the car was built, it had the same engine and basic drivetrain, but the interior was plusher, there were more "gizmos" inside, and the dimensions had been expanded in all directions. To reflect the difference, the car was called a "ZX" instead of a "Z", and the 280Z and 280ZX share very few components outside the compatible driveline items. In 1983, Nissan switched to the VG30 V-6 engine in a number of vehicles, including the Maxima. They decided to keep the luxury items and gizmos of the 280ZX (and add a few more, as well!) and so the 300ZX was born--without being a 300Z first. In my not so humble opinion, the 350Z is really more of a 350ZX...there are a lot of things in it that aren't in the minimalist spirit of the 240Z. Also in my not so humble opinion...minimalism is not always the best course for everyone. I'm rather fond of my 300ZX and some of the luxury. I'd rather take a date out in that than a street-class, race prepped 240. Of course, I'd need a date for that....but that's a whole different topic! Ben

Your suspension geometry won't change with an engine swap. The engine and transmission are not the weak point of the Z31, if you swap them, swap them because you like another engine, not because they are poor. I feel your pain if you have an automatic, though--but a 5-speed swap is still a cheap option. I don't know if the engine will fit, but I don't see why not: with enough time and money, you can make anything fit. I would look at finding a rear subframe (240SX? 300ZX/Z32?) and swapping that in, and worry about the engine swap after. I don't know what the rear suspension of the Z33 looks like. Ben

100 horsepower is just a matter of boost...a bigger turbo, an intercooler, and injectors, then some tuning, and you're there (engine-wise). With either engine, you'll need to ensure your chassis is good enough, your brakes are good enough, your steering and suspension are up to the driving you intend to do. A VG30DETT is heavier than a VG30 because it has much larger heads and intake on it. It's wider because of those heads, and the way the twin turbos hang down. Look at how it's wedged into the Z32...even the VG30DE is huge compared to a Z31 VG30E/ET. Now take a tape measure to the engine bay and you'll see what we're saying. If you want to do a swap, this can be done. But if the horsepower is the bottom line, your better bang for the buck is the engine you have: the VG30ET is an excellent platform for upgrades as it is, people already swap them into other cars for this reason (510s, trucks, S30s...). The cost of upgrading your turbo (500-ish?), chipping the ECU (200-ish?), a 5-speed swap ($500-ish?), intercooler (300-ish?)...sure it costs, but you'll need to do a lot of the plumbing and costs to make the DETT parts fit, too, so it's not just a $1500 swap. It's your call and your car, but unless you're looking at a goal of 500+ horsepower, the bang-for-the-buck is in going with the VG30ET, and you'll probably be able to drive it while work progresses, vs. being off the road for the whole time of the conversion. Ben

In the early '90s a friend and I painted his Honda flat black with two chrome stripes along the hood, top of the car and along the trunk, pretty much 1 in front of the driver, one in front of the passenger. It looked pretty sharp. We painted the hood stripes over because any light at all went straight into the driver's eyes. We left the roof and dulled the ones on the trunk. Ben

Better than that: A 1979 Mercury Zephyr station wagon. Was my first car. So far it's got SVO brakes, GT front spindles, polygraphite all around, and various other things that don't hurt the granny look. Still on the stock 200-6/C4/2.73 drivetrain with 340K miles. Ben Edit: I'm looking at a turbo version of it (or the OHC XR6T) for the Datsun. The mounts for this and a T-5 fall very, very close to those of the Datsun and it's only a hair tall near the front...

I've got one here in the States. I haven't found anyone in Australia who has done the swap into a Z-car, so I may beat all the Aussies to it here in the US! Getting parts has been slow, though, as my importer closed shop and never shipped half the stuff I ordered, been fighting for a new source and a refund. Ben

What's that car behind it? (Not the honda-ish one to the right, but the car you can just see the nose of straight back behind it?) Ben

Hi Vinh, I'd actually looked at your cardomain pages for a while. I also feel the 280ZX front looks fairly good with round headlights, but I wanted a different bumper/spoiler look. I have been in touch with John Washington; I'm hoping the Daytona will be of the quality that the Velo Rossa and his other work is. I don't see why it wouldn't be. I do like the look of the Daytona, and I like the look of the 280ZX (like the 240Z better, though, or a 280 with 240 bumpers). So, it was a hard decision. I'm going to use the pop-up headlights and try to integrate cues from the Datsun 280ZX concepts into the build, to have a vehicle that is really unique, but not in the "bright graphics, big spoiler, neon lights, loud stereo" way. I don't really like any of the Z taillights, I like the Ferrari/British tail look better. Too many years working on British cars, I guess (actually, was at a shop near you for some time back in the early '90s, in Perkasie). But now, I'm rambling. Anyway, the goal for me is to build a car with an exotic look that has a dependable, light, economical drivetrain for which parts are available and, most importantly, is fun to drive and easy on the eyes. We shall see. Ben

I'm hoping to keep the overall weight similar to the stock S130 weight, give or take. The L28 is fairly heavy (especially with an automatic!) and the replacement engine is much lighter. I considered various flavors of the VG30 but decided to go with the Ford US/Aussie hybrid as originally designed for my sleeper wagon. Should weigh in around 300lb for 3.3 litres. The T56 is pretty heavy and may throw the weights off; I'm also unsure as to the difference in weight of the 240SX rears (seting up 5 lugs, R180, LSD). Don't need the weight of the R200, I hope. Also, bracing for that suspension swap. As it's a "fun" car I will not be adding a roll cage, but may build a roll brace. I'm hoping to have it driveable by this time next year, but I expect it'll be spring of 2008 before I'm ready to show it off with all the kinks worked out. Ben Remember..it's not what you BUY...it's what you BUILD!

Sure, if I had a 'Vette, I'd be looking at a different kit. To be honest, if I had a 'Vette, I would probably not re-body it. I wasn't gonna totally re-body the 280ZX, but, 1) it needs so much "incidental work" on scratches and dings, and a paint job, and 2) I do rather like the GTO. So, I looked at GTO kits and realized I could: 1. Buy a 280Z GTO kit and fudge it until it fit my 280ZX, and then I'd have a GTO kit like all the other GTO kits, for a cost that probably could have paid for buying a 280Z to begin with. But if I bought a 280Z, I'd put 240-style bumpers on it and leave it well enough alone. I like the 240/260/280Z. 2. Consider the Ferrari-style 365 Daytona kits, which are less common on the Datsun. Or, I could build to stock, but since I always planned an engine/suspension /brake swap on the 280ZX, I'd have to add fender flares and...etc, etc. So, the Daytona looks nicer and nicer. Along with the custom Aussie/US hybrid 6-cylinder engine, manual transmission (still measuring the tunnel for T56 fitment, I have a T5WC if it doesn't fit and the unused trans replaces the C4 in my Mercury... ), and some manner of 240SX suspension which I'm still crawling around the graph paper on...I'll stick with stock if I have to, but that multilink rear gives me some nice brake options. But I digress. It looks like I'll be making a website as this goes on, as there aren't any documented Daytona/ZX builds hanging out on the 'web that I can find. Ben

Hi SpeedRacer, that black Spyder is the one! I was thinking of doing it as a hardtop, in silver. It seems I'll be the first person to do one on the web...I'll have to actually expend effort on my website...this is getting to be a big project! I shall forward my questions to John, then, and he'll have to deal with a few more tire kickings while I finish getting the money together (hoping to be driving this next summer, so starting bodywork in fall). Ben P.S. Nice handle...Speed Racer was my brother name in college...something about a turbocharged Dodge Caravan and driving exploits best not described or performed ever again.

I have a 1982 280ZX which is getting built from the ground up. It's a solid car, but the paint is peeling (not rust, just peel), the interior is badly burnt by the Texas sun, and the engine was last worked on by someone who didn't understand that you don't remove electrical connectors with vice-grips. So...it's a perfect candidate for a lot of work and customizing. Now, enter the "John Washington factor". I have seen the Velo Rossa kits. I have even talked to John via email (and I'm sorry I wasn't ready to buy then, but I was serious). John's reputation is good, and he was helpful, but I don't want to waste his time again: next time I email him, I will have cash in hand. I haven't seen much on the Daytona kits for the 280ZX, but what I've seen on the VR kits tells me I should have no trouble with quality, fit, etc. What I'd like to know is if anyone here has used a Daytona kit, what they needed that wasn't supplied, etc, etc. What is the weight difference of the kit vs stock? Where does the fuel filler go? How much more/less room is available in the engine compartment (this build is going in conjunction with an engine swap and major suspension work to allow big disks and 5 lugs); how much wider are the front/rear tracks? I have done a lot of automotive work and I am an engineer, so I'm not concerned by the difficulty, just curious as to the experiences of the install, hard to find parts, coupe vs spyder install (I want to build as a coupe) because most of the stuff shows the Spyder version, headlights (do they pop up on the kit? What do you need to make those work?). Are the Daytona bumpers attached to the stock bumper bar, or do you lose your bumpers if you decide you don't want the bumperettes? Thank you for your replies. Ben

Has anyone tried a Ford six? I mean, I'm here in the States and I'm measuring up for a BA-series six in my 280ZX, and in possession of an XD six (EFI) I'm putting into a Mercury Zephyr (although I'm first dangling it in the 280ZX engine bay to compare clearances). I can't believe that no one in Oz has done this yet, it seems like a natural swap to me. Light engine, heaps of aftermarket, easy to get your hands on, comparatively cheap. Please don't tell me you need a Yank to swap in an Aussie engine before you get to it...you've had 20 years' head start! Ben

Hi! Welcome to Hybridz. It sounds like this car is new to you. I'd suggest a bunch of things to start with: 1. If you haven't done so, get a shop manual. Haynes is OK, but I really suggest scouring eBay for a factory service manual. 2. Do a compression check and record the numbers for future reference (or so you'll know if there is a problem!). 3. When was the timing belt last done? If you aren't sure, or it's been more than 3 years or 50,000 miles, you should do it. $30 of belt and an afternoon beats an engine swap. 4. While you're doing the compression, change spark plugs, cap and rotor (unless you know they're good or they look good inside). Check your ignition timing after you're done. 5. Replace PCV valve, air filter, and fuel filter. (Basically, do a full tune-up; this probably solves 75% of automotive running problems). As to your specific problem, I would guess the above steps will help; specific problems may include the CHTS (Cylinder Head Temperature Sensor), which is easy to do when doing a timing belt (but a pain otherwise), the MAF (Mass AirFlow sensor) (but I don't think so), O2 sensor (again, I don't think so). Also, using a service manual, you can run the codes on the ECU, which is located by the passenger's right knee. I won't type all that out here...get the manual! Check out the FAQ sections on http://www.z31.com (although the forum can be a little unfriendly to newbies) and also http://www.az-zbum.com and good luck! Wolf

Do you have a blowby problem forcing oil out? Could there be a burr on the shaft or wear on the shaft ruining the sealing surface? I'd start by making sure the PCV system is working correctly and that there isn't too much crankcase pressure. Then see if the leak is reduced...if you're lucky, it'll slow to near-nothing. If it's a bad cam sealing surface...well, that would be worse. Ben

Sadly, the XR6 engines and crossflow heads did not make it on ANY US vehicles. All the Aussie six stuff in my garage I had to bring over, piece by piece...and I am still waiting for my supplier to send bellhousing to suit T-5, headers, and gaskets for my XE (crossflow) unit going in my Zephyr wagon (my sleeper Z car, lol). Ben

Looking at a 280Z, a VG30ET, and ZR8TD's website, I think the problem is that fitting a (fairly wide) VG30ET into a 240-260-280 requires a large shoehorn, a custom steering column (to clear the turbo itself) and a lot of space. The VG30ET intake plenum and exhaust manifold both extend significantly past the rear face of the block, and the turbo comes down on the driver's side to where it impinges on the frame and steering column. A more "forward" plenum, like a Maxima or Pathfinder use, might help with the interference around the hood latch, but it would require custom manifolds (bringing the turbo forward and crossing over in front of the engine; or, a twin turbo with turbos in front of the engine). That's a LOT of modification. Using a supercharger would allow you to simply use headers. This allows the block to sit a little further back (possibly, not sure how the supercharger will sit compared to the stock intake manifold on the VG30ET). I'm guessing hood clearance won't be a problem as it will likely have a scoop or cowl induction or something to make space. The latch may or may not survive but there are many Z's with hood pins out there. From what I can see, it will still be a tight squeeze and a remote oil filter will be a must (I think the oil filter will be up against the frame rail from the looks of it). Check out ZR8TD's recent post on putting a VG30ET into a 280Z for some more notes. Ben

Excellent info! I am curious if custom manifolds relocating the turbo would allow it to sit clear of the steering column and frame rail? I accept that sitting it further forward would make a very interesting shifter neccesary, so it looks like hood pins would be needed. ...I'm leaning toward an XR6T swap if I were to do a 280Z swap, while I like the VG30ET in my 300ZX, I'm more excited by inline engines, and this swap looks like a real doozy. A friend suggested cutting the frame to integrate the Z31 turbo crossmember...looking at body manuals and measuring as best I can on paper, this looks like it would be easier to build a custom frame and crossmember. Wow. Thanks for all the info, ZR8ED! Ben

Do you have an idea of the ZF 6-speed weight? I have a hard time accepting that a T-56 is double the weight of a good ol T-5. Ben

From my notes (bear in mind: measurements were not taken by me, but gleaned from the internet. I'm presently aboard ship hundreds of miles from any car, and thousands of miles from any car I own...) First: 240 frame. 23.5" between engine mounts. Engine mounts 13" behind upper strut mounts. Additional 8.5" to front hood hinges (21.5" overall...but I think the radiator needs to wedge in there too...). 24.5" behind mounts to crossmember, more like 12" to outer part of firewall? Engine sizes and weights (again, not done by me; I tried to get "ready to run" figures): L28 complete with stock manifolds LT1 complete w/o trans. Aussie XR6 w/manifolds. L28: 443lb 30â€L 15â€W (21â€w/mnts) ?? H XR6: 395lb 31â€L 17â€W 20â€H Chevy 350 LT1: 575lb 28â€L 25â€W 22â€H Questions: Height of Chevy w/air cleaner? Length of Aussie 6 Bellhousing w/adapter (or T-5 LOA) Height of L28 Height of Aussie 6 with intake plenum Stock Datsun 5-speed: 31†LOA, shifter at 29†from bell, 80lb Stock Datsun T-5: 31†LOA, shifter at 29†from bell, 78lb Ford T-5: 24.7†LOA w/o bell, shifter unknown, 84lb with iron bell. Ben

I'm planning on urethane suspension, light build of the L28 (I have an '82 non-turbo), silver paint with a black center stripe and trim, and mild body kit/blending to make the bumpers stand out less. I will probably do something to the taillight area, but I haven't decided yet. This car will be less radical than my S30, because I want it to be a decent daily driver, good mileage, "take the t-tops out and go on a date" sort of car. It also might turn out to be a birthday present to my dad...no one tell. Ben

I'm not sure about all the details on the Geelong-built XR8 engines; I do know that they started off with the Windsor blocks, but I don't know if they still use that Windsor casting or their own. I do know the XR6 progression started in the 60's with the Ford USA "Falcon" six (144 and 170 cubic inch, cast-iron head with intake manifold part of the head casting). When the US started making the 200, the Aussies designed a head with a removeable intake; Ford USA stuck with the integrated intake. The Aussies and Argentinians played with displacements and heads for a while. Argentina used this version (especially for racing) until the 90s. It's a light engine and apparently the Argie 188cid version revs comparatively fast and makes torque to match--there's still a class for Ford 6 cars in Argentina (TC, I think). The Aussies developed a crossflow (Iron) cylinder head in the late 70s, and when Ford USA abandoned the inline-6 in 1983, Ford Australia had Honda design an alloy head for the engine. It was so good, they abandoned the V8; however, this was a mistake as sales did suffer. At some point in this development (I believe at the time the iron crossflow head was introduced), some minor changes to the block were made that resulted in the Aussie engines having a different bellhousing pattern than Ford USA. This alloy-headed, crossflow, OHV engine is the type I have sitting fabbed-up to drop in my Zephyr parts-getter with a T-5 and various brake/suspension upgrades. After 84-85, the majority of these engines were multi-point EFI; I am running mine with an old Haltech EFI unit. Finally, in the early 90s, the OHC 3.9 and 4.0 engines replaced the crossflow design. These are an evolution of the crossflow block; I'm unsure as to the level of differences in the block casting...that will have to come when mine arrives from Oz, unless one of our Aussie brethren has more info? The engines were redesigned to some degree with lower bracing, stud girdles and a more robust casting into the later AU and BA form as shown in the first post of this thread. I would love more details on overall weights, but I know the Crossflow engine with alloy head is delightfully light. The later OHC engines have dual-length intake which switch from long runners at low speed to short runners at higher speed; some have variable camshaft timing, and are overall pretty sophisticated units for an engine that started life as a cast-iron lump before the Datsun L-series ever graced a Z car. Okay, sorry for the lecture, hope some of you are awake and still having a happy holiday... Ben