EMWHYR0HEN

Here's an interesting photo i found while digging through my photo album. It actually looks very funtional, and probably is. The headlight "scoops" are covered and flows with body lines. The front spoiler is fairly low to the ground and masks the bottom of the car from air to flow quikly, which decreases lift. The stock frontal grill area is practically covered completly, stopping the high pressure flowing to the engine bay. but if you look at the picture closely, there are 2 holes on the front grill area. The hole on the passenger side has a pipe directly connected to the manifold, which i think is just awsome. My guess is that the other hole is for air to flow to the radiator, at least I hope so. If you look even closer there is some kind of divider bolted to the core support that looks like it directs air to the radiator. If my assumtion is right about the parts and functions, is this setup efficient enough to cool the radiator and engine cool?

Hey nice writeup, informative. sweet picture too. lol

Hey Q, what clearence issues are you talking about? it looks perfect to me?! or it close enough where it might hit the body if the engine twists under load? I agree with you on not cutting a greddy manifold though..... rather sell it, and make a custom one. if you do decide to sell it, and i consider buying it from you, can i still use my stock TB on the greddy? or if i have to use a Q45, think thats just too much for an N/A application? or even a better question, is that manifold specifically for TURBO application?

Unless your aiming towards BIG amounts of power, like 900+, then I think the RB26 manifold setup is more suitable compared to the greddy. Heck, it might even end up being cheaper to go with the RB manifold. plus, like Q said, more room for the engine bay. Additionally, ITB's in almost any application = good throttle response. so Q, know anyone who can Fab up an adapter?!

You wanna share some pictures

I dont think the MAP sensor has to read pressure from all six inlets (on ITB's), but what 240zmaster said is correct.

or was it this? http://www.zccw.org/Tech/Body/early_aero.asp

thanks, i'll do a search of my own too. I could imagine that the headlight covers help with drag issues. by the way, the post you were talking about, was it the one about the rear spoiler and the exhaust fumes issue?

I see what your saying..... since the G- nose is more 'pointy', would it give a better flow over the front end of the car? I always thought the G-nose looked good, but if it also improves aero, and ultimatly high speed stability, and fuel consumption, maybe even downforce, even more reasons to get one!

Ive heard and read time and time again how the aerodynamics of the older Z -cars are just horable. This I can agree with, only from my own personal experience when driving my car over speeds of 120MPH. However, what I would like to know is what exacly is the cause of such poor air flow, and what causes lift (un-downforce) on the front end of a Z? Is it really THAT bad? its just hard for me to comprehend because ive always thought the sporty Z-car had a great shape, along with low wind resistance.... I guess I was wrong.... someone please enlighten me... I just want to know WHY! Also, does anybody have any evidence that the Z car has bad aero design? Pictures? windtunnel results? Just a thought.... From the looks of it, The G-nose (240ZG) front end looks far more aerodynamic than the 240Z's front. Is this in fact true? anybody have any evidence to that?

I don't have an exact answer for you. but, I can say that im using my stock tank and its not under pressure, i have a walbro external, and I havnt ran into any problems....but if you ask me, doesnt sound right to put a once 'carbed' tank into a pressurized one, esp if your not gonna modify it. Since this is a Gas tank topic..... Quick question to anyone with 240Z with EFI..... is it necisary to keep the stock fuel vent device ( I think thats what it is?) when swapping to EFI? its the black, weird shaped canister behind the passenger side quarter pannel. The only thing I notice from that thing is the smell of gas fuems inside the cockpit. So what guys, Toss it?

sweet, thanks chef. Hey Q, who's Dave, and what does he do?

Sorry to be such a kook in this subject, but can someone explain to me how an SDS system works? would i be getting rid of my entire stock engine harness? would the sds system still be able to manage the VTC, TPS, Air Reg. , idle control, and other stock equiptment? another question is what other components are needed for an SDS?

i've read up on some online posts about people w/rb25det's swapping the stock over the cylinder head type intake manifold for an rb26dett one w/ ITB's . However, those guys are tossing the ITB's and i guess run the large Q45 Trottle body. I understand that the manifold doesnt bolt right up, and does require some modification to bolt up to an RB25 head. But, no one really went into detail about how much modding there is as far as coolant lines, fuel rail, and that stuff goes. What I plan to do is use the RB26 ITB's possibly without the plenum, and just with some air horns attached to them. (My current engine is an RB25DE). if i do decide to toss the plenum, i'd have to go with a MAP sensor setup right? because i'm also getting rid of the MAF. My question is, what's required to run a MAP sensor setup? Standalone? or is there a way to modify my stock ECU fo that setup? feedback? and by the way is there anyone whos already done this swap that has rb26 ITB's laying around and wants to sell?

In a straight line?! Never...... lol. On a whindy track, I'm Game.

You mean the pix, because my sig is only a few words dude. lol

Hey Q, how much did you pay for the flywheel?

Hey Ed. Get that beast started yet?

I dont know if this is just a 25 manifold cut and welded on butterflys or RB26 intake manifold cut, but Anyone know what needs to be done to fit RB26DETT intake manifold on an RB25 Head?

Nope, no dyno #'s or official 1/4 mile times yet. I have the stock top half of the header, but i had a muffler shop make the lower half of it and he used 1 inch piping on it and made some horable flowing collector to join in with my exhisting 2.5 inch exhaust. I have to post a picture of it its just plain funny to see an inline six with such skinny piping. so i know im losing alot of power there, currently searching for a good free flowing header. even still with a horable exhaust flow, the RB25DE still has a good midrage torque and a clean linear pull to redline (7000 RPM). however, im running an r200 with 3.5 gears and im not happy with the gearing match with the rb25de tranny. my 2nd gear max's around 65-70, which is just too high for me becuase I 'm trying to make the car achive good roadrace chararteristics. would anyone suggest a 3.9 rear end or 4.11 for my set up? anyway, the way my car is right now which is: 71 240Z RB25DE Cold air intake 2.5 inch header back w/ borla 3.5 R200 195/50/14's 6 pt cage I G-teched it on a backroad and ran a 14.4 @ 91 mph not so impressive, but my new 27mpg is! Heres a recent picture I took on an Angeles Crest run.

I beleive the RB20DET and RB25DE have the same motor mounts, and also bolt right up to the early and late model Z's. I also know that the DE and 20DET trannys are exacly the same. I just finished my RB25DE swap into my 71'. everything bolted right up, even the drive shaft. AS Far as weight issues, I weighed the RB25DE before i dropped it on and Got: tranny - 95 lbs -dry engine - 406 lbs (without clutch flywheel and tranny brackets) clutch, starter, and tranny brackets - 25 lbs Flywheel - 18 lbs <----- haha what a joke total weight about 554 lbs with oils. Maybe 40-60 lbs heavier than the L28 i think. also, the Rb measures around 1/2 inch shorter on the backside of the engine compared to the L28, however, the Rb sits in the exact same place the L28 does on the front. but, thats using the stock mounts that is. As far as handling issues, i think it doesnt change it at all. maybe even compensated the weight for my 6 pt. roll cage! Hood clearence Driver side mount Passenger side mount. Front clearence Rear Clearence exhaust clearence

well, i think your oil pressure is more important to observe (esp on hot days) than EGT. from my experience, you can almost gauge the oil temp, by observing your oil press. maybe if you can get a gauge made that has oil press and water temp, i think would save room and have good function. How much did he want for the gauges anyway?

I guess its worth a try. I'll take a look at it and see where it goes. hope nothing blows up on me. well if it does work, thanks for mentioning it, Dave

Thanks, Dave. That made me think, I know there is a bigger line that is used for a fuel tank vent, I think? it runs down from the tank onto the firewall and onto the driver side of the engine bay. would it be possible to use that for a return and i guess block the vent? haha that doesnt sound like a good idea. anyway, what do you think? possible?