EMWHYR0HEN

I'm also considering a set of EQUIPS, however not that big. This size would be ideal for me. 15 x 9 & 9.5. -6 & -13 offset they cost a pretty penny , too.

Factory Service Manual for the Skyline has it all.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=8058625414&ssPageName=MERC_VIC_RSCC_Pr4_PcY_BIN_Stores_IT#ebayphotohosting or check this out. $370.00 bucks for a clutch and lightweight flywheel sounds tempting...... and theyre local to me also. still dont know....

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/XTD-PROLITE-RACING-FLYWHEEL-90-96-300ZX-NON-TURBO_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ33732QQitemZ8044241004QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWDVW found this on ebay, will work on any of the RB20's or 25 DE's and DET's. ive never heard of them, anyone here using any of their line of parts and want to give any feedback? anything?

You should consider downloading the FSM for skyline. very, very usefull. You may not even need anymore help from any hybrid Z 'rs. check it out

well there are very detailed instructions on how to use an internal regulated alt. on the 240Z in the forums. use the magic search botton in the electrical forum archives.

well just in case you dont know, you have to use a diode when re wiring the alt. oh, and you can toss the wiring for the stock coil resister thing.

well, If you want to be cheap like me and dont mind using the stock oil press gauge, unscrew the press. sender from your L series engine and bolt it up to your RB. It has the same exact thread. Done deal. as fas as your other questions about wiring, i'd be glad to help, but be more specific on what your trying to do.

Are you going to use the stock fuel out line for the return?

On the AAC unit there is another solenoid, a skinny roundish one, that is for A/C and you dont need it. Obviously, you need the Idle air control valve. I was also curious about the air regulator and played around with it when i was fabbing an intake. Without it, the engine cant keep a steady idle to stay on when the engine is cold.

Hey Q, I told you I tried the resistor thing. DOESNT WORK! You need an MSD or AUTO METER tach adapter/converter in order to use an auto meter tach with an RB.

Well I think an rb25det fits all of those qualifications, and the over all swap is much cheaper than the rb26. pretty straight forward it seems...

$1000 dollars?! that thing better be made out of gold.

Best bang for the buck, I'd say go for the RB20DET just because you dont have to pay for engine/tranny mounts and a driveshaft. Howeveer, you said you have the ability to fabricate so that eliminates the cost of mounts if you get the RB25DET. So, go with the RB25. It has a wider powerband than the rb20, which is what makes an overall fun car, IMO.

No difference, they both dont pass smog and emissions in CA. I heard CA emissions is only going to get worse. Glad I have a classic.

Oh, my bad. whats it for?

Z32 FSM or wiring diagram maybe?

Well, the stock MAF consist of 4 wires. 12V, Ground, and 2 wires that are sheilded that go to the ECU. So isnt that all you have to find out, which 2 shielded wires connect to the MAF? If you have no luck here i know a guy that you can stop by and see that could probably tell you. He's in Gardena.

Haha, thanks. I'm in luck though, My Local parts store sells new 20lb radiator caps with anodes already attached to the cap with a flexible cable wire. so, no need for me to try and do some home made experiemnets, lol.

Wow that dash and center peice is awsome, is it suede? TV in a sports car? but, seeing how everything is so clean, i'm assuming its a showcar. Looks great!

Now thats hardcore. Its also good to see that your still rocking a Nissan engine!

By (-12) do you mean Ground? because the VTC, AAC, and o2 sensor will not work if you ground the blue white wire.

pretty cool idea. I thought about the same thing with speeds that change music volume level. then i found out the next day that mercedes already did it. lol

Well im thankful that you lended me your manifold, and that they're exactly the same. still trying to find someone to make me a header. Ive gotten a few quotes and they've all been in the 600 - 1000 range! I gotta question for you, do you think anything would be affected if you were to tilt the engine and tranny towards passenger side, opposed to how the RB leans to the driver side. I was thinking about this because there is little room for someone to make me a header, or in your case little room for manifolds/turbos. on the plus side, I would imagine that leaning it towards the pass side would help with L/R weight distribution. If you remember, the L series engines leaned towards the pass side....... I dont remember what side the oil pick up was on, but if you tilted the Rb I think that might be a concern.