EMWHYR0HEN

Get yourself a factory service manual. You'll have access to all the emissions/vacuum diagrams as well as wiring diagrams. I had to remove some unused wires and reconfigure the looms to get everything to fit right. For reference, here's all that I removed. Does the HR use a serpentine belt? if not just remove the PS/AC and find a smaller belt.

It would probably be easier and more cost effective to just make a Y pipe from scratch.

Thanks for the shout out. You doing great work! keep it up I would consider making the exhaust collector more into a "V" shape rather than a "U". You'd be surprised how well the VQ responds to exhaust tweaks like that.

Glad to hear you got it cranking. I know the feeling of trying to rush and get the engine started. Have a few car buddies come over and go over your work and make sure all is good. It's really easy to miss a few things sometimes.

Congrats Cameron. Where are the vids?!

No issues in 2+ years now. I would buy another unit.

I just got done redoing my rear struts after installing TTT camber plates. I lost about 1.5 inches of ride height after the install. I had to add a section to the strut, lengthen the spacer under the strut, and raise the spring perch. It was quite a bit of work, but must be done if you want the right ride height with proper shock damping.

I'm running a return style with an aeromotive regulator. I joined the rails using AN to barb fittings then standard rubber fuel line to a "Y" fitting. The fuel rail diameter is small so TIG weld it for sure. I guess you could do it with a MIG, but it wouldn't be as tight and precise.

I'm sorry, but that's just silly.

I think the Mckinny mount set is a bit overpriced. You made the right move making your own especially since you know how to weld. However, I think you can get a stronger structure out of the mounts if you boxed the lateral parts, even with thinner material. Nice work so far

Good call. That's fast for a canyon rd. I would try to get familiar with the road like you would for a race track. Youtube, google maps, Thomas guide, pre- running, etc. Just curious does it take long to get your tires up to temp?

We're assuming slower speed turns so less roll. Therefore, increasing positive camber might be helpful. If you're comfortable how the car handles now I wouldn't make any drastic changes. Maybe play with ride height, and track width to get the car to rotate more. Good luck.

What you want to do is increase the amount of torque applied at the rear wheels. You can do that by trying a more aggressive pad material, increasing rotor diameter, or increasing the force of the caliper.

Warm up the engine from a cold startup and make sure your thermostat is opening and your fans are working/ turning on at the right temp. Find the highest point in the cooling system to bleed out all the air. Sometimes it also helps to jack up the front of the car and blast the heater while your adding water and bleeding the system. Generally if i'm trying to bring water temps down a bit I like to lean out the coolant and add more distilled water and water wetter.

Anyone have any other tire recommendations? I'm finding Good info but might be biased because of sponsors, etc. To be more specific i'm trying to find out what kind of wear and # of heat cycles are expected from a light S30 and sticky tires.

That would be awesome if I could demo your tires Dave. I don't anticipate too much change in setup after increasing front tire width from 255 to 275. I'll also be installing rear camber plates. I was going over tire temps you took for me and I was only using about 75% of my rears( too much - camber) and 100% of my front tires. I'm looking to go out soon. I will let you know.

I'm looking to buy a new set of rubber I don't have any experience with tires having tread wear under 200. I'm currently looking at tires in the $200 range suitable for track events and light street driving to and from the track. Here's the lineup ranging from fastest to slowest. 1. Hankook ventus Z214 C71 (soft compound slightly softer than a Hoosier A6) UTQG 40 C A 2. Hankook ventus Z214 C51 (medium compund slightly harder than a Hossier R6) UTQG 40 C A 3. Toyo proxes RA1 UTQG 100 AA A 4. Nitto NT01 UTQG 100 AA A 5. Toyo proxes R888 UTQG 100 AA A I'm considering the soft Z214's because I have problems getting my tires up to temperature. I will be running 275/40/17 all around and the car weighs in around 2200 lb. The C71 is an auto-x compound which means that they might become greasy after multiple laps. I'm also drawn to the RA1's because they have been known to last even after 40+ heat cycles and just marginally slower than a Hoosier R6. This also brings up a another tire topic. Shaved and heat cycling for non competition use. Worth the initial cost and less tread depth?

nicely done!

Ouch man Sorry about your loss. The damage is a Good amount but I don't think it's totaled. Maybe upper and lower frame is tweaked but can be fixed for sure. I've driven Angeles crest and hwy hundreds of times but still can't quite remember all the turns. On top of that they're mainly high speed turns so it's definitely a place to take it easy. Throw in crappy road conditions for high elevation winters and you have a recipe for disaster. PM me if you want a second pair of eyeballs to look at the damage. I've seen and fixed a couple banged up S30's. Also, PM me if you wanna check out some other fun canyon roads to play on

I agree with the above that a 110V welder is the most suitable welder for almost all jobs on a Z car. I've properly welded 5/8 multiple times with my 110V miller 135. Get to know your welder and pre-heat as needed. I too have no problems welding SS with steel wire.

If you're just learning how to weld I would recommend a nice 110V Mig welder and stay away from the flux cord crap. The learning curve will be quite large if you jump right into Tig rather than learning how to Mig first. If you're looking to do light to medium fabrication like floor pans, frame rails, exhaust work, or even a roll cage, a 110V Mig welder is the proper tool for the job. However, If you find yourself welding a lot of thicker material or at a high duty cycle then a 220V Mig would be more appropriate. I would highly recommend taking a few welding courses. As a gear head the stuff you will learn is invaluable. If you do decide to do that get to know the instructors and they may even let you use their Tig welders for your own projects.

Here's my experience with brake tuning : brake bias tuning Good luck!

Nice work Dave!

First thing I always do with new pads/rotors is bedding in the brakes. How to

Dave you sell out! I'd say go for the GTR if it fits your budget and lifestyle. I got a chance to play with one at willow and is an amazing car right out of the box. I guess you have a lot of things to factor in to make your decision, but ultimately it comes down to what experiences you want. I've never owned a super car so I can only imagine what that would be like, but I do know that building and driving an S30 has it's challenges and rewards. Even if I dumped 4 times the amount of money the car's worth and still slower than a modern sports car the experiences will be with me forever.