EMWHYR0HEN

another question for you 280Z/zx guys, did those modles come with bigger fittings on the gas tank?

No, the return line is not blocked, i can hear the fuel squirting back into the tank at a very high rate. I checked my FPR, its working fine. Heres what i did to make sure that this was my problem: I put my return line directly into a gas canister and ran the engine. There was no pressure on the return line and it ran perfect. ilde was good, and throttle response was instant. Also, I was told if you add resistance to the return line your FP will increase, which is exactly my problem. Im thinking of getting an external FPR with a gauge (maybe B&M?) for now. but ultimatly i' d like to fix the problem from the source and not just go around it. How hard do you think it would be to cut a hole into the tank and tapping or welding a 3/8'' fitting to it?

I have a 71' 240Z and just swapped a RB25DE. AS of right now, im using a Walbro 255LPH external inline pump. My problem is that im using the stock hardlines and if you recall the return line for the 240Z is tiny. There is just too much pressure on the ruturn. As a result, My fuel pressure going into my engine is way too high, causing an unstable idle, and poor throttle response (my guess is that its messing up my Air/Fuel Ratio) So... What are my options with out putting in a fuel cell? i really dont want to hack my car up. I could just put a thicker return line but the inlet on the gas tank for the return is still small. anyone actually tap a bigger whole in their tank? options? anyone?

Yay, my car is running now! This was my problem: 1. faulty ECU. 2. wrong coil harness setup. Thanks!

Quick question: What weight engine oil are you RB guys using? I bought mobil 1 5w30. I live in sunny CA, and my engine has about 20-30k miles. 5w30 sound ok?

well, I feel ive tried everything possible. I did the most dishonerable thing.... I'm paying someone to get my ignition working. The problem was driving me nuts, +school. It just wasnt worth the headache. $75.00 bucks and hour to fix my car. ouch! i'll post pix when everything is running, and let everyone know what my problem was. oh also Thanks, to everyone who gave me some input

Thanks Ed, well I checked all of the coils and made sure that they had the proper resistance according to the R33 FSM. yeah, the engine cranks over. just no spark. I took the coils out of the hole, and i can physically see if there is spark or not. timing should be ok, theres only one way for the CAS to go in, and i marked the position of the CAS before i took it off. It still even had the Nissan sticker over the CAS bolt, so i was the first to actually take it off, or move it. I took apart my entire harness. I mean its to the bare bone of wires, and everything is where its sopost be to be. No shorts, no burnt wires. I still have no clue what this could be. Help anyone?

Hey all. OK I think the problem I have is redeced to a few things now. But still stuck in a very deep hole........ Today I headed over to a friends shop and tried my Ignitor on his R32 GTR. It started right up. So, it's definately not my Ignitor. I removed my engine harness and showed him my harness to confirm with him (he's really experienced with Nissan swaps) that my wirings are correct, which totally are! He let me borrow a RB25DET ECU to try to eliminate the possibility of my RB25DE ecu being bad. He wasnt sure if it would run properly, but for sure that I would get Ignition while cranking. Heres the thing....... I'm still not getting ignition. So, I checked: 1. CAS. I made sure that there was continuity between the 2 wires from ECU to CAS. 2. Power and Ground @ CAS. 3. Removed CAS. With harness still connected and Ign. ON, I rotated the CAS shaft and I could hear all six injectors working. So, I have Ign. power, ECCS power, injectors power when cranking, Ignitor is fine, but still no ignition. Here are my concerns: 1. Ignitor gets warm, (up to 85 degrees F) Ok fine its gets hot.From what all the knowledgeble poeple say, its not sopost to. also had a friend w/rb25det leave his car in ign for several mins and observed transistor temp, and was nuetral temp. so i took apart my coil harness to make sure there were no short circuits, and was ok. I checked all my coils according to FSM and all check out ok. what in the world could there be left to check?! PLEASE HELP!

Looks good Q. I thought I would have to have a custom d/s made as well. I consider that $222 in my pocket! But, its already gone cuz now im gonna buy some headers! what else do you need to get that bad boy fired up?

Thanks 2slo4u. i'll give that a try. Does anybody know how to test an ignitor chip (transistor). i have the fsm. but im not auto technitian, i dont understand how to test it. can anyone explain? Im getting another ECU next week from the guy i bought the engine set from. alot of other people and I think that the ecu is faulty, even though it has no physical damage. kinda weird.... is that even possible? Also, I thought maybe that it was my Crank Angle Sensor, but then again, im getting a pulsed signal to the injectors which gets a signal from the CAS. Anyone know if the CAS gives seperate signals (one for fuel and one for Ignition) to the ECU? I HATE ELECTRONIC PROBLEMS!

240Zmaster. Yeah, im good with the fuel, I have the pump running on a switch. also, i gave 12v. to the grey wire that powers all six injectors (AF81, or somting like that) and i checked to see that i am getting power at each injector. then, I checked that the ECU is sending out a ground to all of the injectors, and i do have a pulsing ground going to all six. So fuel is already eliminated from my problem. I have: 1. fuel delivery 2. engine cranks. 3. ECU power 4. IGN. power but still, no spark at the coils or plugs...... someone HELP!

I talked to someone about the whoel ignitor getting warm thing, and he says its abnormal. he says that it shouldnt generate any heat from just being in ignition and not actually firing the coils. just to make sure, could someone with an RB with ignitor please check and see if there ignitor gets warm from just being in ignition for about 3-4 mins. if it doesnt get warm, then i know for sure that something is getting power when its not sopost to, or shorting somewhere. anyfurther help/sugestions would be GOLD.

Thanks for the reply Ed260Z. I'm not an expert myself, but i know enough to understand how certain things work. 1) Is the Ign Relay sending power to the coils? (not the same as getting power) check. the ignition realy is getting power, and is sending power to all of the six ignitor harnesses . all six ignitor harnesses are also getting proper ground. 2) Is the Power Trans getting signal from the ECU? (I don't think that it should be getting warm) This I dont know of this yet, im in the process of checking that right now. However,since the harness on the ignitor, going to the ECU has 7 prongs, and one of the prongs is a ground, doesnt that mean the computer gives the ignitor chip (transistor) a positive (+) signal? thats my assumtion, someone please tell me if im wrong. as far as the ignitor getting warm, I have no clue if that a bad thing or good thing. although, the transistor has a large heat sink on it, so i assume that its sopost to generate some heat. anyone know anything about that? also, if the transistor is getting warm, does this mean its working? i wish i could anser this myself, but dont have any speacial tools to test the transistor neither does my mechanic friend. PLEASE HELP, ANYONE!

I just finished swapping out my L28 with a RB25DE into my 1971 240Z. Got all of the mechanical parts hooked up, and took care of all my fluids. I have the lower engine harness hooked up to the chassis and everything seems to be working fine (engine cranks, however not 100% sure about the alt. because I havent started the engine yet, but I did bypass the volt. reg. w/diode) Anyway, my problem is that the engine isnt starting. Im not getting any spark @ my ign. coils/spark plugs. So, I checked my ign. relay and im getting power, which means im also getting power to to all six ign. coils ( I checked all six ign. coil harness for power and is good. Then, I checked the ground for the six ign. coils on the coil harness, and they were all being grounded properly. So then I went to the power transistor, and checked to make sure that it was being grounded as well, which checked out ok. i also noticed that the power transistor was warm after trying to crank the engine for a while, so i assume it was working? I also made sure that my ECCS relay was getting power, which cheked out ok. I also have the rb25de fsm, and have gone through the steps in checking the ignitions system. so im thinking it comes down to this: 1. faulty power transistor 2. I have the wrong or faulty ECU if it is my transistor, does anyone know if that part can be found on any U.S. spec nissan/infiniti? and just to make sure that i have the correct ecu, can anyone please give me a part #. anyhelp would be greatly appreciated as I am stuck in a hole right now and cant seem to figure out this problem.