331CI 280z

Thanks for the info. I wasn't sure if anything special had to be done, for the clutches to wear properly.

Hi. I just finished mu LSD install and took the car for a short ride. What a difference!!! Are there any break in procedures that I should try to follow. I installed a PG Power Brute diff in a '85 200sxt rear. I replaced the differential bearings, and checked preload and backlash. I'm using the NISMO cover and fabbed a brace out of aluminum. I put redline gear oil in, and I can notice a slight whine on decel.

It may have been a small hollow point. For work, I carry a Sig .45 Auto and run Golden Sabre 230g bullets. They would have done more damage than that

You could try calling Mustangs Unlimited and ask for Kevin or Brad. They seem to have a lot of tech expertise. 860-647-1965 or 800-243-5092

I had a Galant vr4 2 years ago which is basically the same thing as a Talon, except it also had 4 wheel steering. 4cyl 2.0 turbo awd 5 speed. You have to get used to the way the vehicle slides. Turbo boost adds to the fun. I have powered out of quite a few slides, but you have to be ready. Take it easy and learn how it handles in different conditions and you should be all set.

Anybody???

Hey guys. I am in the process of installing a 4.11 and PG power brute diff in my Z. I bought the Nismo finned cover kit from Courtesy Nissan. I have a couple of questions. 1. Does anyone know the three thread sizes for the threaded parts of the cover? I will not be running an oil cooler and need to buy plugs, but haven't found any that fit. One hole is next to the breather and the other two are below the mount. 2. The cover came with what I believe to be a scraper for the differential. Am I correct? There are no instructions with the kit. Thanks....

It happens. My car is off the road until the salt is gone. I want to drive it, but can't see ruining it in the salt. I'm doing alot of the mods now, so I can just drive when the warm weather arrives.

Yeah. I sent the money and joined, but haven't been to any events. I want to try to go to a few this year. They haven't been the greatest at communication. I e-mailed them a few times with no response. I met one of the members at a cruise night, and he got me to sign up. Hopefully, I'll be more involved with them in the spring.

Thanks for the info. I'm contemplating the S&S headers or 1 3/4" or 1 7/8" Sanderson block huggers. I have Hooker block huggers now, but they'll soon be too small once AFr heads are on.

I'm in CT. I'm a new member to zccne.

Hey guys. I was searching for truck parts today for my F100 and came across a street rod retailer that is selling S&S headers part #'s 5205 and 5205HC. The 5205's are $244.95 and the coated headers # 5205HC are $409.95. The link to the site is http://www.sachserodshop.com/pdf/82.pdf It's a much better deal than buying from S&S directly and way better than Motorsport.

It's been done. Do a search.

Not my style...

That's a sweet setup. I'm in the middle of my LSD swap, and wish I had those parts now. Oh well.

It's a single stage urethane. If you use a metallic color, do not plan on sanding the paint. If you do, chances are that you will be left with a "blotchy" paint job. Basically, you'll be sanding through coats of paint, and unless they are perfectly mixed and applied at the same distance with the same pressue, which is almost impossible, you will get small inconsistencies that will show when you color sand. Basically the paint will look like it has light and dark spots from where you sand through layers of paint. Omni is affordable and relatively easy to apply but for a couple hundred more you can have a base/clear job, that will last much longer and shine more. The last time I sprayed Omni was 2 years ago on an S-10 and the paint is failing in several spots. If it's a puff and scuff, and sell job, then Omni is the way to go, otherwise go with what the majority of auto manufacturers use on new cars. (Base/ clear) Good Luck!!!

I've painted two trucks with PPG's Omni line. The paint is an ecomony line of paint and is not durable over time. It will look good for a year or so, but becomes easily oxidized and doesn't hold up as well as a base/clear system. If the car is nice, I would put it in epoxy primer and save for decent paint. A paint job will only be as nice as the prep and materials you use in it. It's a lot of work to paint a car, and if you're going to go through the effort, why not make it worthwhile. My 2 cents.