BRAAP

RICER! My short definition, “Attention seeking!” My longer definition; Kids/young adults who modify their cars in such way so as to “get noticed” and “stand out”, we refer to as ricers. "Hey, look at me! Everybody see me? Look at me, I'm special too!..." An example of this would be when you go to someone’s house that has children, children say between the ages of 4 and 6. You know how most if not all kids at that age just can’t get enough attention from the adults, which is perfectly normal at that age. They will be standing on the couch, saying “Hey, look at me, look at me...” over and over till you finally look their direction, they smile and start jumping up and down on the couch, feeling pretty special now that they have your attention. That is typical and normal behavior of children that age. That same behavior in a young adult, 16+ years old and older, we call a ricer! They are seeking attention, recognition, approval, making an attempt to prove to the world, (more to themselves) that they are indeed someone special. These overly immature attention seekers will spend enormous amounts of money for parts and enormous amounts of time altering their cars so as to grab our attention based on the insecurities the feel about themselves. The more flamboyant they can make themselves look, (including their cars in this discussion, as the automobile is seen as a status icon in their eyes), the better they “think” they feel about themselves and their position in society. The bigger the wing, the more they stand out in rush hour traffic, to be noticed by all. As been posted already, they will use “excuses” such as “It’s a reflection of my tastes, my personality, and showcases my abilities”! “I’m just showing the world that I’m different and not like everyone else!” Those excuse are easy to hide behind as society today buys that lie and feeds them what they want, not what they truly need. Those insecurities usually stem from parents that didn’t feed that person emotional and loving support during child hood, i.e. the kid was perceived as a bother and a cramp in the parents lifestyle. So as that child matures, he/she is continually seeking recognition, and acceptance in society, albeit the wrong path in acquiring self esteem. Questioning their choices in apparel or car modification usually invites aggressive hostile behavior. Those questions, as seen through their eyes, are rhetorically denying their existence, which they are desperately trying to establish and "showcase" to society, along the path they feel works, (instant gratification!) HEY! Everyone! Hey!... look at me! Everyone, hey!!! Look at me! …. look at me… “ In reality, it’s a shame to see those young adults struggle so. I digress….

DANG BUOY!!!! Those are big numbers! Nice work... I think it's because he really really likes us, and we all truly appreciate his technical contributions to HybridZ. Late model Short nose diff tech info immediately comes to mind...

If you are just looking for simple, ease of installing, the EDIS-x setup with the FORD or Chrysler coil pack is about as easy as it gets. As close to Plug and play as you are going to get, other than the configuration hurdles within MegaSquirt/MegaTune of course. (If you didn't already know, EDIS is Fords brand name for this particular D.I.S. ignition system). LS-x coils have the igniters built in, (electronic circuitry in the coils). With EDIS, the EDIS module itself is the igniter that triggers the coils, and the EDIS/Chrysler coil packs are just coils, no other electronics in the coil pack. In short, the LS-x coils will NOT work with EDIS-x. As I understand, Z-ya was working on getting LS-x coils working with Mega Squirt, as I understand it, that is more complicated than using the EDIS ignition for the 6 cylinder. Might be less hassle for the 4 cylinder? (Hopefully Pete or Matt will chime in…) The CBR coils with just a "+" and a "-" only sounds like they are just a coil, i.e. no electronics built in. Just need to verify they are compatible with EDIS electrically speaking and the EDIS dwell is adequate for the CBR coils.

Happy ??th birthday Alan

Happy 25th birthday BobbyZ

Happy 28th birthday Kennysgreen280ZT

Happy 47th Birthday Warren

I see two ways to do this on a 4 cylinder using the FORD EDIS-x ignition system. A) EDIS-4; I don’t see why it can’t work, though before you try it, you will need to do some investigation/testing/measuring to be sure the coils are compatible with the EDIS module. 1) Running coils designed to spark only one plug vs the Ford EDIS coil packs which spark 2 plugs with one coil, would require 4 coils. No biggee right? 2) Pair up the coils via the primaries. I.e. wire the primary (input) of two coils together with each other. Those two coils will now both spark at the same time firing 2 plugs, though using one primary trigger. The EDIS-4 module only has 2 outputs, one for each “paired coil” hence pairing up the primaries. 3) Not sure how resilient the EDIS module is regarding primary resistance values, though I would verify that those “paired” motorcycle coils have similar primary resistance of the Ford EDIS coil packs primaries, as measured with an Ohm meter. The Chrysler coil packs have virtually identical primary and secondary resistances, i.e. they are electrically interchangeable. 4) The EDIS module has its “dwell” built and is NOT adjustable, (coil “ON” vs “OFF” time). Ford engineers set that dwell time to match the coils rise time. If the new coils rise time is slower than the EDIS coil pack, when the coils are triggered, the spark intensity delivered will not be at the full potential of what that coil is capable of, and if boosted, could end up not sparking at all. On the other end of the dwell spectrum, if the new coils rise time is faster than the EDIS coil packs, then the new cols will burn out, and hoe long that happens depends on how much the coil is being “oversaturated” (turned on too long causing the coils to heat up…) 5) Wasted spark ignition on the Datsun/Nissan 4 cylinder, the paired coil packs will fire cylinders 1-4, & 2-3. B) EDIS-8; EDIS-8 come on the Ford Mod V-8 engines, (Crown Vic, Mustang, T-bird, etc) and the EDIS-8 module has 4 outputs. Now using the EDIS-8 on a 4 cylinder, you would have a true sequential Distributor-less ignition system, not wasted spark. Each of the 4 outputs can control one individual coil/cylinder. 1) Not sure how resilient the EDIS module is regarding primary resistance values, though I would verify that those “paired” motorcycle coils have similar primary resistance of the Ford EDIS coil packs primaries, as measured with an Ohm meter. The Chrysler coil packs have virtually identical primary and secondary resistances, i.e. they are electrically interchangeable. 2) The EDIS module has its “dwell” built and is NOT adjustable, (coil “ON” vs “OFF” time). Ford engineers set that dwell time to match the coils rise time. If the new coils rise time is slower than the EDIS coil pack, when the coils are triggered, the spark intensity delivered will not be at the full potential of what that coil is capable of, and if boosted, could end up not sparking at all. On the other end of the dwell spectrum, if the new coils rise time is faster than the EDIS coil packs, then the new cols will burn out, and hoe long that happens depends on how much the coil is being “oversaturated” (turned on too long causing the coils to heat up…) 3) EDIS-8 is rumored to intermittent spark above 6000 RPM, though on some Ford Mod motors, guys are getting 7000 RPM with no spark issues. In our testing on the EDIS Test bench, (we tested EDIS-4, EDIS-6 and EDIS-8), we did note that the EDIs-8 was more finicky regarding the input trigger and using odd trigger wheels, (Odd meaning we actually tested a 36 tooth saw blade), the EDIS-8 would drop sparks earlier than the EDIS-4 and EDIS-6 modules. My best guess is that h the EDI-8 is fine up to 7000-7500 RPM, so long as you use the EDIS-8 VR and the matching EDIS-8 trigger wheel, i.e. whatever V-8 vehicle the EDIS-8 module cam from, also get the VR and trigger wheel from that same or similar vehicle. For those about to “Hybrid” the EDIS ignition system, please document your Hybrid set up and share your results. You may also want to look at our EDIS test bench thread where we tested many triggers wheels, VR to 36-1 clearances, etc. This thread is a good spring board for anyone wanting to Hybrid the EDIS ignition; Click ME for in-depth EDIS testing on, "The EDIS Test Bench!" This thread below is also a good primer on D.I.S. and the Ford EDIS-x ignition system; Click ME for a discussion of "D.I.S." and "EDIS-x"! Hope that helps, Paul

Cygnusx1 is also now running EDIS-6 with MS on his L-6 and found a later model Chrysler coil pack and was generous enough to share the pin outs, and with his permission, that info has now been added to this thread. Here is Daves post; Thank you Dave, Paul

Ahhh…. ahhsk and yeee shahl receeeve, gwass hahpper… Just so happens there is a thread here on HybridZ, (it’s a sticky in the “Site Support” section), that shows in detail with pictures, instructions on how to post pictures on HybridZ, (embedded as you are asking). Here is that thread… Click ME for "How to post pictures on HybridZ".

bakerzxt and Rustyfriend, Both of you, PLEASE read this link! hint hint... http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=131518

I would agree with if this was any aftermarket ECU or older OEM ECU, though I am pretty sure the late GM ECU’s as used on all LS-x engines and other vehicles, as I understand it, though I could be wrong, are essentially water proof. I don’t mean just “splash” proof, but literally “submerged” water proof. GM installs those ECU’s in the engine bay of their cars, trucks/SUV’s at the factory, knowing the owners will steam/pressure wash their engines bays. As I understand it to be, these late model GM ECU’s are designed to withstand water as well as the extreme temperature swings experienced in engine bays in various climates, from Alaska to Death Valley.

Nice work Dave... You've got PM...

Happy Birthday Joel.

Hmmm…. Using FFMarc’s induction idea pictured below, (pic courtesy of Summit Racing), mount it facing backwards and plumb it through the firewall into the upper cowl region with the filters under the cowl, (not sure how much room there is for that big of filter ?!?!) Cold air intake from the high pressure zone just under the windshield. Down side, (or upside depending on your point of view), is the induction noise, (WHAAAAHT) will be more audible in the cabin at WOT. Personally, I prefer to hear the induction noise over the exhaust noise. Sends chills down the spine.

Janaka, Hope you don't mind, I took the liberty of adjusting the pic links so they are embedded now, not just links. Engine bay looks much cleaner now. Very nice.

done. Cough... cough... Just clearing my throat..

Paul Ruschman '93 N/A Z-32 coupe. Sandy Oregon

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Here is a very unique custom aluminum dash build up thread; http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=116823 Pic courtesy of Lunar240Z Another unique dash design thread, this time in Fiberglass… http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=114356 This thread has some very nice examples of lather/suede covered OE dashes.. http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=124146 Pics courtesy of Jackhammer … Pic courtesy of ROVdriver…

The brake light in the speedo of the S-30 is illuminated in the carious ways. 1) The parking brake being engaged, (switch is at the base of the parking brake handle) 2) A differential brake pressure switch in the engine bay just under the brake mastery cylinder. It has one wire going to it in the very middle. 3) The later S-30 cars, (for sure the ’78 model, possibly ’77) also utilized a brake fluid level switch with the switches in each of the master cylinder reservoir caps. The light only illuminates if any of those switches close, (closed switch grounds the wire to negative/earth/ground, thus illuminating the light). These conditions below can inadvertently cause the light to illuminate. 1) One of the wires is pinched/chafed and grounding out. 2) The open end of a connector from any of the switches that may be disconnected is touching grounding somehow. 3) Parking brake switch is overly sensitive and any bumping or vibrating of the parking brake handle allows that switch to close. I have experienced the wire that goes to the parking brake shorting to ground due to someone rerouting that wire too close to the passenger seat track and the seat track wore through the insulation of that wire. Result was the brake light would flicker on and off. It got worse over time. Based on what you’ve shared thus far, my gut instinct says it is a short, activated by the resonance the engine produces at 3000 RPM or so. Or the parking brake switch is overly sensitive/grounding out. Look at those various switches and any wiring to them that may have been chafed/damaged. Hope that helps. If not, let us know what you do find.

OMG LAWL!!!! :bling: OMG K&N Supercharged! Stock exhaust, cause it makes more horsepower!

NO!

Thank you for the follow up fix update.

Soooo, your saying you have a bit of experience...? That pic makes me pucker... OW!