BRAAP

I’m experiencing trigger errors that act just like the Mega Squirt resets. Acts as though the ECU shuts OFF and back ON very quickly. I haven’t posted anything on it yet as I’m still trying a few things incase it is my CAS or other electrically noisy device causing this, but seeing as how I’m not the only one… My set up; V-500 direct fit for VG30DETT. Firmware 5.03, Software version 5.00.74, Noise and TriggerX count every time it happens. In a 35 mile drive, (my typical commute into town) I could have as few as 2 resets, and have had as many as 20+ resets. Typically I get between 8-12 on that drive. This misfire/reset/trigger error shuts off the fuel and spark and the tach falls during the reset. This is over 400+ miles, mine was happening only at “exactly” 3000 RPM, mostly at low to moderate loads, only a few times at WOT, (quite violent when it happens as the drive train abruptly unloads and then takes up the slack). I do not get any trigger errors at any other RPM. Fixes I've tried thus far; 1) I connected a ground wire between the V-500 case and the car body. Resets still happen, though it seems to now set trigger errors between 2800 and 3000 RPM. 2) I checked my spark plugs, they are resistor plugs, even replaced them with new resistor plugs, no change. 3) Shut off individual injectors and coils till a trigger error set, (hoping one wouldn’t set). All 6 cylinders triggered errors within 15 miles, same trigger errors as before. So it the error isn’t caused by one injector or coil being too noisy. 4) Another option on the drawing board, If the V5.03 firmware and/or that little black box containing the magic pixie dust for the CAS don’t play well together, is to eliminate that WOLF black box and drill a sync hole in the CAS trigger wheel as shown in this thread linked below, post #2, “optical”. (Hugh, Mike Hintz, and Clint B. are successfully running the modified CAS set up) http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=126055

I’m just using the term “reset” in reference to how the ECU acts. Sort of like the ECU goes through an internal “reset” thereby shutting itself off and coming back on. Each trigger error is like an individual reset. For what engine is your “Plug and Play”? RBxxDE, VG30DE, etc? Does it have the black plastic box in the harness adapter that goes between the V-500 ECU and the OE Nissan harness?

Digger, So you had it running prior to shipping it back and it was fine, no trigger errors/resets? Just curious, what firmware and software were you using prior to shipping back to Australia and what is your current firmware and software versions? Are you using the direct fit that has the black box in the harness?

Long story made short… I was replying to one of my posts, I let my attitude get the better of me in my reply, ignoring my own advice, then made a deliberate attack on an admin, (myself), so I banned myself for violating HybridZ rule #13. I’m sure I banned me for also violating rules #5 and #6 just a smidge which didn’t help much. I’m fortunate to get off with just a 30 day suspension/ban, which when fulfilled, I will be allowed to mingle with the population here at HybridZ and post, so long as I don’t violate any more rules… Click ME for the HybridZ rules and Guidelines...

DOH!!!! Uh…. Yeah….. I tend to forget how convenient that feature is. Using the family iMac for my “online” work really isn’t a good excuse for why I take the time to set up the camera and tri-pod for taking a picture of the screen when I could just “Screen shot”, “save as” in jpg, then use my jump drive and transfer the .jpg screen shot over to the iMac to post… The fact that I’m not only using a Mac, but also publicly admitted to using a Mac might explain the lapse… Yeah, I should port over to the Innovate datalogging with the LM-1 too. Innovates data logging is definitely more robust for "tuning".

You will find that Sir Woldson will sometimes speak/type with his native English accent… Moldy Woldy, as we call him around here, good ole chap. Does anyone else hear the echo?...

I have the 5.03 firmware, not sure when what version started with the the O2 enabled, I heard it was 5.02?!?!

Bo, Thanks for the tip on the running parameters for the tracking and activation, and sharing your ICET and Target RPM settings. BTW, what V-500 firmware and software versions are you running with?

Put close to 500 miles on my V-500 now, tuning little bits here and there, getting familiar with how to set it up, configure it etc. Car runs and drives pretty much as it did with OE ECU, only a couple areas a savvy driver would notice weren’t quite right yet. Using the OE O-2 sensor as my coarse AFR indicator right now, (LM-1 to be used later). Things that make you go hmmm….. The electronic filter setting for the internal map sensor as sent with the Direct Fit V-500 for the VG30DETT has an incredible amount of filtration, which is not what I would’ve expected for a relatively modern 6 cylinder. (This is installed in a N/A Z-32, bone stock VG30DE). I would’ve guessed it to have a smooth stable MAP signal. Apparently my guess was entirely incorrect. Wolfs suggested starting value for the MAP filter setting, when starting from scratch for most engines is 93.75%. As shipped to me, it is set at 37.50%, which is a LOT of filtering! In looking at my data logged MAP signal, I can understand why! The VG30DE does not have a smooth MAP signal at any RPM and/or load. With the VG30DE/TT's twin plenums, I could understand if the MAP signal is pulled from one plenum, generating a pulsating MAP signal, but at the balance tube the joins both plenums? I originally used the balance tube for my MAP signal, then switched it to one of the plenums. No noticeable difference in the logs between either location, both produced the spiky MAP signal in the pics below regardless of location. Here are 3 pics, one of the filter setting, the other 2 are a WOT run through 2nd gear tonight, one pic around the 3000 RPM mark and one at the top end of 7200 just prior to engaging the rev limiter. Oh, and the WOLF Rev Limiter is oh so butter smooth. Power just falls on its face softly, no bucking, surging, no popping, etc. WAY smoother than the later OE higher bit rate OZ-32 rev limiter. MAP trace is dark blue, upper graph.

Bo, Are you referring to the idle set screw on the throttle shaft, opposite the TPS? If so, use that set screw to set the butterfly blade itself, set it ever so slightly, so it does not contact the throttle bore when the throttle is closed. If the butterfly is allowed to contact the bore, it will wedge itself there, be sticky when coming off idle and in short order, wear a step in the bore over time. Hope that helps.

Bo, In playing with it, I found a couple interesting aspects, one of which I don’t understand. In setting up your idle speed, as I understand the procedure to go, you are to deactivate idle speed control in the “Activation” sub folder, and then set Initial Centre Engine Temp, (referred to as ICET from here on out), to a setting that delivers the desired engine idle speed when the engine is running, (this is with the idle activation OFF)! This can be tedious, especially if generating the curve from scratch. When you make any adjustment to the ICET, it will NOT take affect until you shut down the ECU and power it back up, just like the other “config” settings. Then the IETC will instantly readjust your idle speed motor to the ICET setting and the display on the dash board, (green IDLE bar) will reflect that setting. What I noticed is that that green bar/idle speed motor will not drop or change to follow my ICET settings as the engine warms up, holding the idle speed control valve PW at the same PW. Shut the motor off, restart, and then the ICET will again reset to the current engine temp, and hold that till the next restart. From this, in my mind, the whole ICET feature doesn’t really make sense as to its true purpose. Our idle speed control valves can only operates in the 0% to 100% open range, Wolf will control it in that entire range, and V-500 gives us control over adjusting idle speed vs engine temp, a fast idle speed upon initial engine startup that is adjustable as for how much, how long, and how fast you want the decay to take place, all in the “Extra Opening” sub folder, so this ICET feature has me at loss. Maybe its just there for engine start, or is the out of range inactive default for the valve? Hmmm… At any rate, as I fine tune my idle speed parameters, I plan to set it up as suggested and maybe by the time I get the idle fine tuned, it will make more sense. Idle speed and IETC settings for the Z32 Direct Fit as shipped; *** EDIT *** Oops. Corrected my incorrectly spelled acronym.. "Ice T",

Bo, That should be the "Engine temp centre" settings. This past couple weeks I've been playing with PWM idle with the VG30DE. When I get home tonight I'll post a screen shot of my settings in hopes it will give you some idea on a starting point and slope.

LOVE the exhaust note.!!! Sounds very good, crisp, clear, etc.. Now take it down to the strip. We want to see a time slip!...

Harmonic damper being out of balance or separated, would not shake the car like out of balance tires. You would feel a slight buzz, and that buzziness could be strongest at specific "engine" RPMS, regardless of the gear chosen and/or vehicle speed. Vibrations that are specific to vehicle speed, regardless of engine RPM or gear chosen would be chassis issue, not engine or transmission related. Regarding the tire balancing. Did the tire shop balance them dynamically or statically? If they balanced them statically, (weights only on the inside of the wheel, usually for cosmetic reasons and is a little quicker to perform), the wheels WILL still be out balance dynamically and will shake the steering wheel. In the distant past, whenever I had wheels “static only” balanced, the tires would still shake the car. Then I learned of dynamic balance and how it is important, especially with wider wheels, and now I makes sure ALL of my wheels are dynamically balanced, regardless. A dynamic balance will have wheel weight on the outside and inside of the wheel, which balances the wheel statically, AND dynamically, eliminating couple/rocking forces, (the wider the wheel, bigger issue this becomes). Dynamic vs static balancing… http://www.gsp9700.com/pub/features/intro.cfm Chassis Vibration diagnoses… http://www.yokohamatire.com/pdf/tsb-TireBalance-12803.pdf

Digger, I am using V-500, direct fit for the Z-32 VG30DETT on my ’93 N/A Z-32, VG30DE, firmware version 5.03, software version 5.00.74. My enrichment does show and indicate when enrichment is being added, no issues there. I would like to play with the .75 software though. Anyone know what changes/bugs were fixed in the 5.00.75 software?

Hmm.. Might have to play with this in the Z-32 using the OE knock sensor… Maybe Hugh would be interested in having me do some of the port work labor on his P-90 in trade for some Knock sensor set up?

This may sound harsh, and I apologize for that as I am in no way trying to belittle or demean you. We all started somewhere in our technical automotive walk and all of us had to learn what those items are, just as you. You just have a long ways to go before you’re ready for a forum of this caliber. If you honestly don’t know what those items are, you most likely are on the wrong forum all together. This forum is dedicated to Extreme Performance Z cars. Questions and topics here are akin to an advanced college course focused on Z cars. What you are asking is high school level auto mechanics, not really HybirdZ level questions, sorry. Forums such as http://www.zcar.com, http://www.classiczcars.com, http://www.zdriver.com/forums/, etc are great forums for Z owners to get more acquainted with their Z cars. You also should purchase a Haynes Manual for your Z car as it will show you these basic features and how to maintain them. You may also want to search eBay for a Datsun/Nissan owners manual for your year of Z as it will show the basic features, fluid levels and types, etc. By the way. The part with the dual reservoirs is the Brake master cylinder. The other single reservoir is your Clutch master cylinder. Both take Brake fluid. Take care, Paul

83turbo280zx, 1) Do NOT triple or even double cross post! Post your question ONCE, and only ONCE in the most pertinent section of the forum! 2) Please make an effort to capitalize the beginning of your sentences and “I” when referring to yourself. Please read this thread on that subject; http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=131518 3) Please thoroughly read this short thread and then be sure to read through the first link in that thread; http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=130442 Thank you for your understanding in these matters, Paul Ruschman HybridZ staff

Update… 1) Installed a semi permanent vacuum line for the WOLF V-500 internal MAP sensor. 2) Rescaled the fuel map for the N/A injectors. 3) Reconfigured the MAP sensor load scale to represent 100% load at atmospheric, (N/A), vs the preprogrammed 100% load = 15 PSI boost. Drove it around for approx 2 miles, using the narrow band indicator on the WOLF dash to establish a decent coarse tune, only had to adjust the trims in the 100% load range just a skosh. No surging, no flat spots in the RPM range at cruise and WOT, O2 reads slightly rich at WOT, and close to stoich at cruise conditions. Acceleration enrichment is close, just a small hiccup if the throttle is stabbed quickly from idle. Mild to moderate throttle application and accel enrichment "feels" adequate. MAF is still in place, though not in use as the WOLF is running in speed density. Other than the acceleration enrichment hiccup upon a quick WOT stab, (I wont start tuning accel enrich until I am sure the fuel map is at least 95% of where I want it first), and the fact that WOlf is not controlling the idle speed motor, (idle speed of 850-1200 RPM that I can't adjust or alter other than with fuel or timing changes), the car runs and drives no different than it did with the OE ECU. For the time being, the WOLF ECU will remain plugged in. Only complaints thus far are; 1) The direct fit connector that connects to the OE EFI harness is not a real good connection and if that connector is bumped or jostled, the WOLF ECU will shut off, sometimes power right back up if bumped again. I don’t feel comfortable with such a lousy connection and not sure how much of that the WOLF ECU will tolerate? I will be looking into improving that connection. 2) The WOLF ECU is NOT controlling the idle speed. Played with the connection etc, WOLF just wont control idle speed even though the OE ECU controls the idle speed just fine, ie. idle motor and harness to the idle speed motor are fine. 3) Poor battery life in … Averatec 3200 lap-top… ARRGGGHHH.... **edit*** Google search revealed the basic option of using the “Power Management” functions in the XP control panel… Recharged the lap-top battery, went for a spin tuning/data logging WOLF with the new lap-top settings and the battery life is now at least double what I was getting before…

I’m not real familiar with L-series cylinder heads for other markets/countries other than domestic USA market. Though I am pretty certain that this head is NOT a domestic USA head AND it has been modified. 1) Injector slots and injector manifold mounting holes along with carb mounting holes indicates post 1975 production. 2) The EFI Intake mounting holes “appear” to be 8 x 1.25mm, (Same as the carb and exhaust mounting holes), instead of the typical USDM 10 x 1.25mm, though the pictures could be deceiving and those holes could be the 10 x 1.1.25mm holes. (See picture below showing the mounting hole size difference on an US market N-42 head.) 3) In looking at the manifold face, note the 2 bolt hoes above the #6 exhaust port?…. NOT on any USDM L-6 cylinder heads. 4) Note the vertical casting lines above and between the ports in the unmachined portions of the head near the valve cover... 5) The measurement of the intake port opening means absolutely nothing in identifying that head as it had been “port matched” (opening of the port had been enlarged by hand), evidenced by sanding wrap marks left in the port entrance and the injector slots indicate most of the material removed in the intake port was removed from the roof of the port. 6) The casting number had been removed. The picture is difficult to tell but it looks like a sanding wrap finish. 7) Pics of the combustion chamber and clear well lit pics of the area surrounding the intake valve guide boss would help greatly in identifying this head, so long as the intake port work did not consist of altering the guide boss. N-42 head. EFI mounting holes 10 x 1.25mm, carb mounting holes, 8 x 1.25mm

Sort of a minimalized approach to an EFI L-28. OE EFI intake manifold modified with minimalization as the primary goal, distributor totally minimalized/deleted, etc.

If that is the company/bosses laptop, you probably should install Vista and learn it. If it is your personal laptop, you are not obligated to install anything you don’t want on it. Your Laptop, not theirs. If your work requires you to know Vista, either take a course and ask your supervisor/HR if the company will help compensate you or help offset your tuition to some degree, reminding them that your continuing education is an investment for them, if it is imperative, maybe they could help with the acquisition of a desktop/laptop that has Vista.

For those new younger members who like to type in IM format or anyone who is too lazy to use the shift key on their keyboard or even proof read their post prior to submitting it, please read these two links. Click ME for posting in IM format on the forum. Click >> http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/70238-read-me-shift-not-just-a-nissan-ad-campaign/ if your Shift key is broken or you suffer from lazy pinkies.

Is it just me or are all the new guys using the their phone to text in IM on HybridZ? C’mon guys. Make some sort of effort to communicate using English, with punctuation, AND capitalization and leave the IM style posting for cruising the Mall with your cell phones!!!!! Please read BOTH of these threads… http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=115824 http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=131518

Glad to hear he is doing well. Thanks for the update. While reading your description of the procedure, muscles were tightening all over my body, full body chills, etc. I have been squeezing so tight that my chair is now stuck to my…. Keep us posted on his progress. Take care, Paul